99carbonx1
05-06-2010, 08:27 PM
99 X1 Lightning - 1200
So heres my problem - - Check engine light comes on intermittently below 2999 rpms. Once I hit 3000, it goes off. Light does not come on when setting idling. This happens after at least 4-5 minutes of riding under 3000 rpms. Now for a background. Traded in a touring bike for this, had a K&N air cleaner and Vance and Hines Exhaust (they are wrapped with pipe wrap from the prev. owner). Do not know if the "breathers" from the top of the head are hooked up correct. They run into a T (three hoses, one from each cylinder and the third into the bottom tube of the throttle body). I only thought of this after seeing Buells with catch cans on them - mine doesn't have one. Do not know if ECM has been remapped. These are all questions I have been curious about, but was not giving any problems at the time (except when running at constant speed for a while would occasionaly (once every 15+ minutes of riding) sound like a slight miss (like a sneeze) then go back to normal - engine light did not come on for this). Four weeks ago, I changed Engine oil and Primary oil and battery, used screaming eagle 20-50 and HD+ (whatever it is) for the primary. Did overfill the oil (did not realize until after I ran it and it blew the dipstick out of the tank), but drained it down to correct level. It was still 40-50 degree weather outside, and was riding around. There was one evening that I got caught away from home about a week and a half ago where it started to mist lightly, then quit, but got cold (35 degrees appx) - rode it home and was just fine. Two days later I went out to garage and rode it to work (let it warm up for appx 45 seconds) and after about 4 minutes (10 minute ride to work) the check engine light came on. I freaked, pulled over, shut it down, inspected for leaks, wires, etc... Nothing was found. Started back up, rode another few minutes, done the same thing. It was appx 45 degrees that morning. Checked the gas at work, looks ok, smells ok, no seperation (we have ethanol gas here in Mass). Looked at plugs, little grey on tip of electrode - had ngk d7ea in it. Rode home, light went off 4 X going back home. Starting to get warmer outside, appx 50 in morning and 65-70 at night. Once home, Looked online, found a descent (or at least I think) source said to run NGK DCPR8EIX. Got those, drained fuel tank completely, refill with 93 (always run 91+) took for ride, same thing, not quite as often. Getting upset, thought if just slow down it would go off, did not. Tried the other way - - once I hit 3 grand, it would do just a little sneeze then take off like a bat out of hell and the light would go off. When the light is on, there is no unusual noise, doesn't run any different (except for the sneeze when it hits 3000). Doesn't matter what gear you are in. What I am thinking is do I have a carbonizing issue that is messing up the O2 sensor or the head "vents" that tie back into the throttle body blow oil when I overfilled and jacked up the IAT or the O2 sensor, or temp sensor going, or ecm mapping, or fuel again. I did read there is a way to jump two of four pins and any codes will flash the check engine light - - followed per directions given and no codes showed. I am curious where to go from here. I am in search of a temp sensor right now, I live about 1 1/2 hours from nearest Buell dealer, and am going to see if I can get shop manual and temp sensor.
So heres my problem - - Check engine light comes on intermittently below 2999 rpms. Once I hit 3000, it goes off. Light does not come on when setting idling. This happens after at least 4-5 minutes of riding under 3000 rpms. Now for a background. Traded in a touring bike for this, had a K&N air cleaner and Vance and Hines Exhaust (they are wrapped with pipe wrap from the prev. owner). Do not know if the "breathers" from the top of the head are hooked up correct. They run into a T (three hoses, one from each cylinder and the third into the bottom tube of the throttle body). I only thought of this after seeing Buells with catch cans on them - mine doesn't have one. Do not know if ECM has been remapped. These are all questions I have been curious about, but was not giving any problems at the time (except when running at constant speed for a while would occasionaly (once every 15+ minutes of riding) sound like a slight miss (like a sneeze) then go back to normal - engine light did not come on for this). Four weeks ago, I changed Engine oil and Primary oil and battery, used screaming eagle 20-50 and HD+ (whatever it is) for the primary. Did overfill the oil (did not realize until after I ran it and it blew the dipstick out of the tank), but drained it down to correct level. It was still 40-50 degree weather outside, and was riding around. There was one evening that I got caught away from home about a week and a half ago where it started to mist lightly, then quit, but got cold (35 degrees appx) - rode it home and was just fine. Two days later I went out to garage and rode it to work (let it warm up for appx 45 seconds) and after about 4 minutes (10 minute ride to work) the check engine light came on. I freaked, pulled over, shut it down, inspected for leaks, wires, etc... Nothing was found. Started back up, rode another few minutes, done the same thing. It was appx 45 degrees that morning. Checked the gas at work, looks ok, smells ok, no seperation (we have ethanol gas here in Mass). Looked at plugs, little grey on tip of electrode - had ngk d7ea in it. Rode home, light went off 4 X going back home. Starting to get warmer outside, appx 50 in morning and 65-70 at night. Once home, Looked online, found a descent (or at least I think) source said to run NGK DCPR8EIX. Got those, drained fuel tank completely, refill with 93 (always run 91+) took for ride, same thing, not quite as often. Getting upset, thought if just slow down it would go off, did not. Tried the other way - - once I hit 3 grand, it would do just a little sneeze then take off like a bat out of hell and the light would go off. When the light is on, there is no unusual noise, doesn't run any different (except for the sneeze when it hits 3000). Doesn't matter what gear you are in. What I am thinking is do I have a carbonizing issue that is messing up the O2 sensor or the head "vents" that tie back into the throttle body blow oil when I overfilled and jacked up the IAT or the O2 sensor, or temp sensor going, or ecm mapping, or fuel again. I did read there is a way to jump two of four pins and any codes will flash the check engine light - - followed per directions given and no codes showed. I am curious where to go from here. I am in search of a temp sensor right now, I live about 1 1/2 hours from nearest Buell dealer, and am going to see if I can get shop manual and temp sensor.