how to better 1/4 mile times?nos? drop the front? i want low 11s!

[chevnut55]

i took my xb12r to the strip last year and got it in the low 13s..not to impressive to me,but i know that what these bikes do and they are best in the twisties.
my brother has built his zx10r into a drag bike so im not catching him,5 other guys i know are also going to the track alot this year ansd i need to beat atleast some of them...expecally my bad moulthing buell bahing best friend on his old 85 gs1000..if that old turd beats my bas a$$ buell ill be pizzed and never ever hear the end of it!
besides tearing into the motor what can i do?
i was thinking of no2 noss to you import guys but im not shure how the bike will respond to it,if it will take it and what kit and how to hook it up?
i do see aproblem no matter how much more power i make...the front lifts off the track at any time without notice ,so would more power just make it worse so i have to back off?
a stretched swing arm would be nice but i dont want to spend that much and hurt the handeling or looks,i will only go to the track a few times and street ride and road trip all summer. any ideas anyone? i would love to get into the 11s.

[Puzzled]

Ahhh something I can respond to.

I'd suggest wheelie bars for a street bike. Why? Because they are easily removable and unlike a stretched arm they are not on the bike all of the time.

You will need your 60' times to be the best you can get them. Just the ability to jump off the line first makes a big difference. The quicker you leave the line the quicker you will come up in speed. When grudge running as you will be doing this may be enough to make your opponent grab a fist full of throttle and wheelie causing them to lift.

I run an 1125 which is down on power in comparison to the liter bikes, and I can beat them. There is a pic of me running a stretched Yamaha. I have a bud with a 07 GSXR 1000 with nitrous, I got him every time last year.
http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Buell-1125R/Setting-a-street-1125R-up-to-drag-race/3/

If bars are out of the question than work on setting your OEM suspension for drag racing. Rear, quick compression slow rebound. For the front a strap is inexpensive and will help also. For a little bit of time you can drop the front tubes through the trees. Get the bike as low as you can, front and rear.

Weight is another factor. Loose what ever you don't need. The trunk load of do-dads... take them out. Fuel, there is great debate over this with a Buell however I like to run a gallon or two in the bike. It is extra weight I don't need to have a full tank.

Your exhaust, if it is something you can take the baffle out of than do it. It will be obnoxiously loud however a WOT the bike will appreciate it. The low end may suffer some.

Work on sliding the clutch as opposed to dumping it or riding it. I have a bar bike so I full on dump the clutch. My bud on a 06 stock wheel base GSXR 1000 launches at 9k and slides the clutch (no burn out either).

WARNING, DRAG RACING IS ADDICTIVE AND CAN GET COSTLY! ;)

From "Techniques For Motorcycle Drag Racing"


In the attached video clip, watch my burnout and staging techniques. I do on film exactly what I say to do in the text of my training document. Note that I have pulled through the water box and am sitting on dry pavement about 6 feet ahead of the water. Also note that I look over at my opponent, who is my good buddy, and wait for his nod before doing my burnout. You can hear that we are doing our burnouts simultaneously, as it should be done. Also note that I rock the bike left and right to heat and clean both sides of the tire's crown. After I felt that the tire was properly heated, with the tire still spinning, I slowly move forward controlling my speed with the front brake. This gets me away from where I left a patch of water during the stationary part of the burnout. Moving forward with the tire spinning is one of the most important parts of doing a technically correct burnout. Also note that once I have moved forward about 15 feet with the rear tire spinning, I pull in the clutch and shift into neutral. Then I coast up to the line and, using my feet, I walk the bike forward until the top stage bulbs are lit. I then I stop and wait for my buddy to stage his drag bike. Once he has his top bulbs on, I pull my face shield down, shift into first gear, rev the engine up to launch RPM, and get my body into launch position. Then I let the clutch out just to the friction point and let the clutch pull me forward until the bottom stage lights are on, then I pull forward another few inches to make certain I am not staged too shallow, then pull the clutch in just below the friction point. At that point, both of us have all of our stage bulbs lit and we are ready to launch.

[xtremelow]

XB9R with Race kit got me to 12.03sec @ 112mph. I launch at about 3500rpm, anything more and I pull the front end to high and lose overall time.

As many know I am building my bike and I have the susp. setup right now for drag racing basically how Puzzled noted. I also have the Ss swing arm and with that I have my lower shock mountto maintain an Scg ride height removed, then I have the front forks slipped 1/2". The bottom of my bike is 2 1/2" off the ground.

I also drop my rear tire air pressure to 20psi, but I do have to note that was on a 180mm tire not the 200mm tire I am currently running.

Your single largest factor for improvement will be practice. Going to drag strip over and over really helps you learn the limits of the tires, throttle, and susp. Many say drag racing is a waste on a Buell but it does help with the mentioned learning limits of your bike which will also factor into riding of the bike daily.

[anrkizm95]

13s?practice alot.

[chevnut55]

i get close to a perfect r/t but i dont leave hard because it not worth flipping my bike to get a papper slip with a lower # on it.
xtreme,how does the ss swing arm help launching? also what did it come off of and any mods to make it fit?
i really would like to add nos but cant find a kit made for buells,i would like to get around a 25 hp shot.

[anrkizm95]

if you keep going to the track you will get into the 11s.keep adjusting and getting more comfortable and aggressive

[xtremelow]

I bought my Ss swing arm from a member here. Depending on the year you may or may not need new/custom oil lines.

If you maintain the stock shock and bolt it up directly to the Ss swing arm it will drop the back about 3".

It makes a difference but not a huge difference in 1st gear since our bikes have the low end torque. The drop combined with the swing arm an susp setup all okay together to help the most. I slip the clutch and try to leave with the RPMs not to high. I would personally practice until you drop a second or so before modifing the bike. It will allow you more practice and better feel for what you have then once you begin to modify the bike you van build off what you know at that point.

[dragracexb]

If you can't put a set of wheelie bars you're just wasting your time short time is everything. A good jap bike can run 1.35 to 1.45 in 60'. Nitrous is'nt going to help if you can't get the power to the ground and keep the front end down. a buell's wheelbase is to short 52" most jap bike are 55" to 58" depending on what it is. an 85 suzi will beat you. put an arm on and strap the front end. look at Puzzled's times.

[dragracexb]

Check out in the member pic just posted who's is that?