Wheel bearing nonsense

[heagachongoose]

So I stopped to get gas the ther day after a nice day of riding with absolutely zero problems, 08 1125r bone stock, 5200 miles just about due for service. When I left I noticed an inconsistent popping noise emanting from the rear of the bike. Almost like a ting or a tok noise with the occasional louder noise. Initially I assumed it was the belt catching on either the swingarm or belt guards due to the small space between my belt and the edge of the sprocket. As far as the belt goes I initially suspected a busted cord which was drawing the belt outward but I've recently found out such behavior is normal. Anyways got home pulled all the guards off and took the bike down the road. Still makes the noise. This is when I began suspecting the bearings. Brought it back into the garage, jacked it up and spun the wheel by hand. Still makes the noise. I'm pretty sure its the bearings but the wheel has zero play and I've had little to no experience with bad bearings and Id like to make sure this is what's wrong before I go buying things lol.

Any ideas? First legitametly helpful response wins $1,000,000. Ready, set, go. [smirk]

[Theycallmecrash]

Create your own stethoscope, ear on a long screw driver put it as close to the bearing as you can on a spot that does move. Spin the wheel have a listen. Should be pretty obvious if the noise is the bearing.

[heagachongoose]

Ha. Pretty sure it was the bearing..

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/14909_20130813141516_L.jpg

[oght6]

mine started making noise after a rear tire change. there is no free play of any kind and bearings dont feel bad at all. Gonna replace them and the spacer as well. Does anyone have a good part number for the SKF ones? I been searching for a while and keep coming up with different ones.

[rchuff]

Wow that's nasty goose. That could have been bad news .

[heagachongoose]

Oght6, check out this thread. Lots of good info here. Hopefully it will help you. Skf is arguably the best replacement you can
get. I settled for the oem replacement simply because they were easier and faster to get lol

http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/290431/651540.html




Wow that's nasty goose. That could have been bad news .

Oh yeah. Dodged the bullet on that one.

[ztied]

Thats usually the first sign crackling and popping sometimes even feel real tight,of bearings fixing to go out

[oght6]

Thanks for the link, I really appreciate it. Unfortunately my can of warms got much bigger today when I took everything apart. I could not find any issues with the bearings themselves. The grease inside them was even still blue in color. No binding of any kind ether. I took the bearings out and found a lot of scoring on the left side of the axle spaces where it was hitting the wheel. The left side bearing practically fell out too. There is some scoring inside the wheel in the race as well. I was expecting the bearing to take a dump before something like this would happen...go figure.

[brightbuell]

Buy jap bearing dont go cheap!! Jap's make the best bearings!! Thats my two cents, i have never had to replace my rear bearings yet but i know its coming one day, is it a pain in the ass??

[Advanguard]

Is there any recall on this, mine went out too and the dealer is going to charge me $1000 for new rim and bearings (it really damaged the rim).
any suggestions?

[Advanguard]

$1082 for new 3 bearing rim and bearings, parts and labor...ouch, but Im back on the road, also conserned with the front bearings now.

[Matteson]

Dude new rim is 380. bearing for 2010 are 20 plus axle and spacer. Mount and balance no way. They ****ed you. 500 is what we figured at Harley yesterday.

[thumpin1203]

You can buy the 2010 rim at American sports bike for 380.63 complete with bearings, seals, spacer(s) and axle, Al will press the bearings in for an extra 20.00, then 30.00 or so to ship and another 30 or so to mount and balance your tire on it. So 460.00 or so, total, for the upgrade..

Here is what you get for the 380$. I bought one for my Uly not too long ago.. it's a bulletproof set-up with 20% larger bearings (3 of them) ..they also incorporated robust end seals that should keep water out indefinitely..

(a new, beefier black anodized "corrosion proof" axle is included, but didn't make it into the pic below) V V V



http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/8475_20131205113640_L.jpg

[Matteson]

**** ya. I couldn't find it on his site yesterday. I find it difficult to navigate on there. I will try locktite #680 and start saving for the long term solution. Again around 500 said and done. Does Al have piant too?

[thumpin1203]

Al can get most ANYTHING Buell.. ;)

[thumpin1203]

"I will try locktite #680"

Make sure you peen, dimple, or knurl the inner bore (evenly/methodically) to give the bearing a solid "bite". You'll want a tight, interference fit when pressing in the new bearing.. the bedding adhesive of your choice basically fills the voids left from the process.

I don't recommend this process for longevity or safety..(disclaimer :D) However, it did work for me for thousands of miles on one of my first buells, years ago.