XB9 CAM BUSHINGS - REPLACEMENT PARTS AVAILABLE?
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theMelvster6
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Take a sample to a machine shop? Have them make you some...it's all about cost though. I've heard of guys machining the cases and putting oversized bushings and/or they drill and pin them to keep from spinning.
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That's funny? I looked in some of my old records because I replaced a set awhile ago.
The parts number is 25598-91
And if your going to replace the inners replace the outers too.
Part number 25586-37 and 25599-91
You just need the special tool to pull the inner bushings out without cracking the cases.
The parts number is 25598-91
And if your going to replace the inners replace the outers too.
Part number 25586-37 and 25599-91
You just need the special tool to pull the inner bushings out without cracking the cases.
Thanks squid - I went to the HD dealer here today and we found these part numbers in the Sportster manual not the Buell manual - make sense? Same cam bearings in a Sportster? Why don't they list them in the Buell catalog? Also - any chance you made a typo and 25599-91 should be 25588-91? Thanks for the help.
Internet Annoyance
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I havent tried to order or buy any but it stands to reason its the same bushing as a Sporty, Shouldnt be a problem.
But its kinda funny someone would think you have to replace cases for a bronze bush. People make up bushes for that sort of thing all the time. Thats why we have lathes. Im quite certain new bushes exist on the shelf, but if not, find a good qualified machinist and have some made.
the proper procedure for R square (R2, Remove and replace) is SLOWLY heat up the cases in the oven (Not while your wife is home) and make sure VERY clean, So bring the cases up slowly to 250 deg F. to 350 (try the lower setting first,) use a socket or drift sized for that bush size,, pull the case out, set on plywood sheeting (thick is good) and then have a wash rag soaked in COLD water,,,,, carefully turn it (like you are wringing it out) and insert the washcloth into the hole,, hold for 10 seconds, pull out and give the bush a nice gentle whack with the socket or drift, Should pop right out.
If you are talented you can do all 4 quickly on the timing side, If you have bushes that are blind holes,,,, go to Harbor freight and buy the bushing and bearing tool kit, It has a slide hammer and several variations of jaws, and expanders for blind holes. (If you have to remove a bearing or bush on a manual car trans,, same procedure,, the bush or bearing is located in the back of the crank.)
Do the same heating drill, and quenching,,, then quickly insert the tool, twist on the slide hammer, clunk clunk and Bob's your uncle,
Reinstalling a bushing or needle bearing is really easy but requires finesse. Heat up the cases (your wife will enjoy the aroma of Eu De Mobil 1 synthetic wafting thru the air) cool the needle bearings or bushes in your freezer. It SHOULD be an interference fit. see manual for specs, I shoot for a half thou most of the time,
By freeze/heating you should be able to install in a jiffy with a smooth quick press in, secure to prevent it shifting or walking out of the hole, wrap the cases in a big towell, a Big thick terry cloth is best,,like the one your wife saves for when guests are over,. Allow cases to return to room (Ambient) slowly.
In compy motors or knackered out cases I will pin them, in most cases after the cases cool I use Loctite GREEN which is a bearing retainer and carefully place a bead around the bush and let it soak in,,allow to dry,
NEVER EVER EVER NEVER EVER EVER heat up your cases with a torch of any kind, I dont care if you saw it on a video by god gift to engine assy,,, or your dear old uncle Fester did it that way down on the farm. Its bad bad bad and creates local stresses, warps cases, and in general is a stupid thing to do.
thats it. piece of cake,
But its kinda funny someone would think you have to replace cases for a bronze bush. People make up bushes for that sort of thing all the time. Thats why we have lathes. Im quite certain new bushes exist on the shelf, but if not, find a good qualified machinist and have some made.
the proper procedure for R square (R2, Remove and replace) is SLOWLY heat up the cases in the oven (Not while your wife is home) and make sure VERY clean, So bring the cases up slowly to 250 deg F. to 350 (try the lower setting first,) use a socket or drift sized for that bush size,, pull the case out, set on plywood sheeting (thick is good) and then have a wash rag soaked in COLD water,,,,, carefully turn it (like you are wringing it out) and insert the washcloth into the hole,, hold for 10 seconds, pull out and give the bush a nice gentle whack with the socket or drift, Should pop right out.
If you are talented you can do all 4 quickly on the timing side, If you have bushes that are blind holes,,,, go to Harbor freight and buy the bushing and bearing tool kit, It has a slide hammer and several variations of jaws, and expanders for blind holes. (If you have to remove a bearing or bush on a manual car trans,, same procedure,, the bush or bearing is located in the back of the crank.)
Do the same heating drill, and quenching,,, then quickly insert the tool, twist on the slide hammer, clunk clunk and Bob's your uncle,
Reinstalling a bushing or needle bearing is really easy but requires finesse. Heat up the cases (your wife will enjoy the aroma of Eu De Mobil 1 synthetic wafting thru the air) cool the needle bearings or bushes in your freezer. It SHOULD be an interference fit. see manual for specs, I shoot for a half thou most of the time,
By freeze/heating you should be able to install in a jiffy with a smooth quick press in, secure to prevent it shifting or walking out of the hole, wrap the cases in a big towell, a Big thick terry cloth is best,,like the one your wife saves for when guests are over,. Allow cases to return to room (Ambient) slowly.
In compy motors or knackered out cases I will pin them, in most cases after the cases cool I use Loctite GREEN which is a bearing retainer and carefully place a bead around the bush and let it soak in,,allow to dry,
NEVER EVER EVER NEVER EVER EVER heat up your cases with a torch of any kind, I dont care if you saw it on a video by god gift to engine assy,,, or your dear old uncle Fester did it that way down on the farm. Its bad bad bad and creates local stresses, warps cases, and in general is a stupid thing to do.
thats it. piece of cake,
