How To: Build your own Exhaust!

[Urban_Assault]

What you'll need:

Materials:
1) Stock muffler
2) Stainless Steel mesh (found it on eBay)
3) Coarse Stainless Steel Wool (also found on eBay)
4) Welding/Brazing Flux
5) Welding/Brazing Rods (1620 degree, white rods)
6) Two - 2" chrome exhaust tips ($10 each at AutoZone)

Tools:
1) Torx-head wrench set
2) Deep-well socket set
3) Dremel cutting tool
4) Die-Grinder
5) Jigsaw with metal blade
6) Welding/Brazing equipment
7) 2-1/8" or 2-1/4" hole saw

The welding equipment can be MIG, TIG, or Oxy Acetylene. Whatever you have on hand should do.

I actually bought one of those Oxy/MAPP welding/brazing kits at Lowes for $50. It's the one that has the small red and yellow tanks. It worked well, but went through about three of the Oxy tanks, at $8 a piece.

I used the white 1620 degree rods. While I think this is technically considered "Brazing", if you're exhaust gas ever gets hot enough to re-melt the joints, you've probably already blown your motor.

[Urban_Assault]

Remove your chin fairing by taking off the three bolts on the right side, two in the front, and two on the left.

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3762.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3763.JPG

[Urban_Assault]

Remove the front pulley cover, which should give you access to the two rear exhaust clamps.

Loosen the clamps enough to rotate them to the bottom. Once they're on the bottom of the muffler, it will be easier to get the wrench on and loosen them all the way.

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3765.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3766.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3768.JPG

[Urban_Assault]

Loosen the front exhaust hanger from the left side, and loosen the header clamp from the muffler inlet.

Once the muffler is loose, disconnect the exhaust valve cable from the right side. The cable connects to the muffler just like a throttle cable on a carburetor.


http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3764.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3770.JPG

[Urban_Assault]

Once everything is loose and disconnected, you should be able to wriggle the muffler off and slide it out from under the bike.

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3771.JPG

[Urban_Assault]

Make a small cut up the middle of the muffler using the Dremel.

Once you cut all the way through, you should be able to use the Jigsaw to cut easier.

Go slowly, and try not to force the blade. Stop cutting when the saw doesn't seem to move easily anymore. This means you've reached the end of the chamber.

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3772.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3773.JPG

[Urban_Assault]

Once you've reached both ends of the main chamber, make a "T" cut using the Dremel.

Once again, use the Jigsaw to widen the cut until it doesn't seem to go any further. This means you've hit the internal "labrynth core" pipes.

Repeat the same process on the rear chamber. Start your cut about even with the exhaust outlet.

Once you've made the cuts, you can peel back the sheet metal and expose the chambers. Try not to crease the metal, since that will make it harder to bend back when it's time to close it up.

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3774.JPG

[Urban_Assault]

To cut off the rear chamber, you'll have to cut through the outlet pipe. It's easiest to cut half of the rear chamber off with the Jigsaw, then you can get at the pipe with a die grinder.

Using the die grinder, Dremel, and tin snips, remove the core tubes. Try to leave about 2" of pipe on the front of the muffler, you'll need this to support the stainless mesh later.

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3775.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3776.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3777.JPG

[Urban_Assault]

Using the hole-saw, cut the two side pipes from the rear of the muffler. I used a 2-1/4" hole saw, but it might be better to use a 2-1/8" if you can find one. Just use an exhaust flaring tool to widen the hole if you need to. That will hold the exhaust tips a little tighter.

Once the two side pipes are out, grind down the center pipe until it is smooth on the back. Most likely the inner piece will just fall right out.

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3778.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3782.JPG

[Urban_Assault]

Cut a piece of stainless steel mesh that is about 3ft or 4ft wide, and as long as the muffler chamber.

Make a loop with the mesh around what's left of the core pipes. It should be a loose loop. You should be able to press the center down in between the core pipes and almost touch the bottom. This will make sure you have enough room for the packing material.

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3785.JPG

[Urban_Assault]

Using the die grinder, strip the muffler casing around the holes down to bare metal for brazing. You'll also want to scuff up the exhaust tips to make sure you get a good bond on those.

Put plenty of flux all over the tip and muffler where you will be brazing. This will help make sure the metal rod flows well, and makes a good bond.

Clamp the exhaust tip in place, with the outlet angled slightly down. You'll want to make sure the stainless mesh goes around the outside of the tip, between the tip and the muffler wall.


http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3781.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3786.JPG

[Urban_Assault]

I don't have any good pictures of the brazing process, but it's really not too complicated. If you're using the Oxy/MAPP setup, here's what you do:

Barely turn the MAPP (yellow tank) on, and light the flame. Adjust the valve so that you have a 4-6" flame, but make sure the base of the flame is still touching the nozzle.

Turn the Oxy (red tank) valve SLOWLY until the flame starts to turn whiter and becomes louder. (Sounds almost like a little jet engine). You'll probably have to turn the valve almost two full turns before the Oxy comes on, but once it starts it's VERY touchy.

Turning either valve too quickly will blow out your flame. Make sure you turn the Oxy back off, and the MAPP barely on before you re-light.

You want just enough Oxy that the core of the flame turns blue, and the outer flame turns almost white. The flame should be about 6-8" long now.

Heat up the muffler and exhaust tip until it just starts to glow. Once it's there, bring the tip of your brazing rod into the flame and scratch it agains the metal until it starts to melt.

Make sure you scrape it agains both the muffler and the exhaust tip as you're brazing, this will help make sure you get a good seal.

If the welds don't look smooth, you're probably not using enough heat. Check and make sure you're Oxy tank isn't empy (I got about 15 mins out of mine).

[Urban_Assault]

Once both exhaust tips are brazed into place, you can pack the Stainless Wool into the chamber.

To pack the bottom, stuff the wool in through the middle hole between the tips. Make sure you're packing it UNDER the mesh screen, since that will keep it from blowing out.

If you have extra mesh, you can also crumple that up and pack it in.

Once it's all packed, fold the flaps back over. Pack flux in-between the two layers, as this will help with closing up the muffler during the final brazing process.

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3787.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3788.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3789.JPG

[Urban_Assault]

Before you start brazing everything closed, you want to make sure you clean the area very well with the die-grinder.

You'll also want to make sure the seams from both flaps line up as close as possible. Try not to have any gaps, as that will make brazing a little harder.

Tack the flaps closed in the middle, then tack the two "T" cuts. This should hold everything in place and keep it from warping too bad during the brazing.

You can see on mine that I accidentally creased the flaps when I opened the muffler. That's why it looks all dented on the top. Luckily you can't see it after it's installed.

You can tell it's my first time using an Oxy setup. :(

Pretty ugly, huh? They are solid, though. Nothing a little paint can't cover up. ;)

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3790.JPG

[Urban_Assault]

I sealed up the center hole using a small piece of scrap from one of the parts I had cut off. Again, make sure both surfaces are clean before you try to braze them together, and use plenty of flux.

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3791.JPG

[Urban_Assault]

Cover the chrome tips with some masking tape, and slap a coat of flat black Exhaust Paint on the muffler.

When the paint dries, peel off the tape and polish up the chrome tips.

After that, start putting her all back together.

You'll probably smell some of the flux burning out for the first minute or two after you start the bike up. It also might hesitate a little bit the first time you start it, until the compuer adjusts the fuel settings.

It's 28 degrees and 6" of snow today, so no audio yet. Will post it next week.

Took me 12 hours start-to-finish, and I'm very happy with the result.

The sound is VERY deep. Not rediculously loud, but it makes your chest thump a little at idle.

Hope some of you guys find the info useful.

-Tim


http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3792.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3793.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3794.JPG

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/IMG_3795.JPG

[shilohsk8]

Awesome write-up, great step by step! I might do this to my extra stock exhaust sitting in my garage then sell it. Do you ever have to re-pack it?

[Furball]

All that technical knowledge and you still have your warning stickers on... ;)

Very good write-up bro this really motivated me to open up the garage.

[Urban_Assault]

Thanks Shilohsk8.

In theory, the stainless-steel should not rot and blow out like other packing materials. That's why I chose to go with stainless mesh/packing.

I thought about doing the Voodoo DIY muffler, but decided to do this instead. I prefer the sound of the pass-through design, I just think the D&D and Jardine pipes are too "tinny" because the chambers are so small. Plus this retains the mounting brackets for the chin fairing.

This one sounds a lot like the Latus or Edelbrock RPM - based mufflers, maybe slightly throatier.

I've been down to the garage twice today just to fire it up and hear it run for a few minutes.... I'm still smiling!

[shilohsk8]

I think this is the best exhaust DIY I've seen on here yet. Your definitely getting a rep point from me.[up]

[meetch]

fantastic write up..!! looks like a great winter project and I'm sure it sounds as great as it looks! A+

[Urban_Assault]

Here's an audio clip of the exhaust. I just strapped a mic to my backpack on the way into work this morning, so there is some wind-noise once I get up to speed.

The mic doesn't really catch all of the deep tones, but it should at least give you an idea.

-Tim

http://www.atvcolorado.com/attachments/Buell/Exhaust/Exhaust.wma

[Trill]

Holy Loud! Sounds great! THe wind noise kinda hurt the ears a bit tho lol.

You should try it with the mic inside your jacket. I dont think it would muffle it that bad.

[Macbuell]

Anyone know if this would require a TPS reset or any mod to the ECM? I really want a different sound, but dont think I want to mess with the computer at all. Good with my hands, not with a computer so much. Love the sound

[Stevenc150]

What's your year/model?

TPS Reset...yes.

ECM Re-map
- if it runs like crap, Yes
- if it runs good, No

But eventually, you do an exhuast mod, it's best for the bike to have a remap.

[Macbuell]

I am running a 2004 XB12s. Approx 1500 miles I think.

[djmb913]

How huch would you charge to build one ?

[2balls]

Hello from belgium....... i do that....

http://www.dailymotion.com/user/2_balls/video/x5i3gl_buell-modif-pot-xb-12_auto

[50dro]

Anybody know how this mod compares to what is done by Special O.P.S. (or others)?

[Urban_Assault]

Hey dj, where are you located? I'm guessing I could do another one for $150 or so, but it would be a few weeks before I could do it.

50dro - From what I understand, this is almost the same thing. According to the "exhaust shootout" write-up on ASB, they basically gut the core then line the chamber with packing material.

To be honest, thier fit and finish will be better than mine for sure, they've obviously had a lot more experience doing this than I have when it comes to welding/brazing it back together. I've only done one muffler (mine), but learned a lot along the way.

If I did another, I would probably use Tattoo's suggestion of perforated stainless plate to hold the packing material instead of the mesh, and probably use rockwool instead of stainless fiber. I think in the long run it would hold up better, but the sound would still be about the same.

-Tim

[only1reds]

Urban Assault & 2 Balls, nicely done [up]:p[up]

[dave_xb12r]

Damn that lighting in 2balls video was awesome. I REALLY liked that R swap!

[danolson88]

i have an 05 xb12s i gutted the muffler all went well...ran good for a day or two but now it it wont run or idle hardly. any help please. remap necessary etc????

[Stevenc150]

Reset TPS and get a custom tune if possible or at least upload a Race ECM map.

[hula Buell]

Good gosh!! You should write for bike magazines.This was great...Thanks

[AdventureUly]

This looks great!

The exit pipe on my 07 Uly look different to the exit pipe on this and other exhaust mods that I have seen on this site.

Enyone know how different it is, if any on the inside?

[Tank]

Urban Assault,
Have you done a sound bite? I would love to hear it!

[Urban_Assault]

Sorry guys, I've been off the board for a while. Just finished moving to Colorado Springs... Woohoo! :D

I did upload a sound byte, but it's crappy. I'll see if I can get a better audio clip uploaded when it warms up in a few days.

-Tim

[DrogeN Omen]

Nice mod Urban_Assult, am currently trying to find a cheap second hand muffler on ebay so i can hack it for my 2007 XB12SS, I can barely hear it running with the current stock muffler... it would be a bit expensive for me to ship to New Zealand though.
I have found this web site in Australia that sells XB12SS Drummer and Micron mufflers but they are $1500 Australian Dollars :( which comes to almost $2300 New Zealand Dollars :( http://www.srwmoto.com.au/exhaust/drummer-muffler-with-slip-in-baffle-in-a-new-core/prod_29.html

[chevnut55]

im giving it a try.because the instructions and picts i know what to expect and how to do it.i have a lot of fabrication experence and a good mig welder, so now im not afraid.. if you can do it with a torch in your garage and it looks that good.thanks for the info urban[up]

[Urban_Assault]

Thanks Chevnut.

I'm still REALLY happy with how it sounds. Like one of the earlier posts mentioned, I would probably go ahead and line it with regular rockwool vice stainless steel wool, and use the thin perforated plate to hold it in place.

All in all, I think it only took a Saturday afternoon from start to finish.

Good luck, and let us know how it turns out.

-Tim

[chevnut55]

i am looking for rockwool ,but im having no luck.where do i find it? i was going to use regular exhaust packing.

[Stevenc150]

Amazon: Rockwool (http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss?url=search-alias%3Doutdoor&field-keywords=rockwool)

[Pockets]

Um, wouldn't rockwool deteriorate over time with moisture?

[chevnut55]

i have been surching and there are many different kinds of rockwool.there are some fro plants some for home insulation,i think what im looking for is the stuff in a insulated fire place pipe .but cant seem to find any place local that sells it. the stainless steel whool or the fiberglass packing may be used or i may add noise canceling plated like a flowmaster muffler.

[Stevenc150]

Ceramic packing is good for over 30K miles, or so I'm told. Could be another option for you.

[Pockets]

I'm probably just going to try steel wool on mine and pray it doesn't burn up when welded.

[chevnut55]

steel whool will burn. you need to use stainless steel whool the corse stuff so the exhaust will pass. if in doubt light it up with a torch before you install it. i am wondering if i should give my fmf fiberglass packing a try.i plan on adding steel arrow shaped noise cancelers in a few locations like a flowmaster muffler and building a removable chamber in the rear where the pipes exit to install or remove the packing..or just do what urban assault did,if it looks and sounds good why mess with it?

[Pockets]

Think I'll find stainless wool at a hardware store?

[BPlass]

I have the same question as Pockets....hardware store have stainless steel wool?

[Pockets]

I have yet to find it at any hardware store. I ended up using chopped fiberglass matting from Auto Zone.

[DrogeN Omen]

found a cheap second hand XB9R exhaust so gona give this mod a go.

hope it works.

since the exhaust i found doesn't have the regulator valve will this mod work with my XB12SS and will i have to get my ECM re-mapped?

[Pockets]

It will work without the valve. What year is your bike and have you done any airbox/filter mods?

[DrogeN Omen]

i have a 2007 XB12SS Lightning (Long), it is stock standard.

i haven't made any performance changes to it at all.

i have only done a cornering lights mod.
http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Do-It-Yourself-Buell-Mods/Cornering-lightsroad-side-ilumination-mod

what is the airbox/filter mod? will i need to do this to be able to use the muffler mod?

[DrogeN Omen]

ok my second hand XB9R for $1 should arrive on Friday.

wont it at an auction.

its been de-baffled at some point.

[Pockets]

That's one hell of a deal DrogeN!

[DrogeN Omen]

it finally turned up this morning.

nullhttp://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20100315162032_L.jpg

now to start cutting... woohoo...!!!:D

[lawdog]

For exhaust packing I have heard nothing but good things about Silent Sport. If you are going to do the job I say do it once and do it right.
Silent Sport (http://www.areapnolimits.com/silentsport.html)

My plans for my muffler are.... I am going to cut it open and install Rush baffles, and Silent Sport packing around them. Weld a rear cap and some 45 degree turn downs. I love the sound of Rush Baffles.
Rush Baffles Sound Clip (http://www.epiflex.com/youtube.html)

[DrogeN Omen]

gona make a start on this mod this weekend...

going shopping for the parts tomorrow.

so you guys are sure i wont need to remap my ECU once i do this mod?

[Pockets]

Nope. No remap needed as long as you don't have a K&N or airbox mod.

[DrogeN Omen]

i put the second hand XB9R muffler on my bike last night. took me about 40 mins to swap over.

turned it on and sounds great big improvement on the stock one. but i noticed it takes a bit longer to start...

will ride it to work tomorrow morning and see if there is any difference.

[DrogeN Omen]

Bike sounds good at 100km's riding down the highway.

i have noticed that at low revs its a bit sluggish but as soon as i hit 5000RMP it takes off like a rocket, feels like it accelerates a bit quicker than it did with my stock muffler.

When i installed the XB9R muffler i disconnected the exhaust valve cable and also disconnected it from the air box as XB9R muffler doesn't have a exhaust valve...

Will disconnecting the exhaust valve cable from the air box cause any issues?

[Urban_Assault]

Shouldn't give you any trouble. If you disconnected the electrical plug, your Check Engine light will come on. You can order a terminator for about $40US that will fix the check engine light.

Good luck, Glad you like it!

-Tim

[qksltwo]

How does it run? Have you noticed a loss in torque? Do you need to change the ECM?

[DrogeN Omen]

I did notice a loss in torque on the way home from work.

takes longer to speed up when flooring it... and also can no longer do wheelies...

any idea's on what to do to fix this? or is this just a result of removing the baffle?

i might put my stock muffler back on if there isn't a fix for this issue.

[Stevenc150]

I did notice a loss in torque on the way home from work. You can add fuel in the maps (or use Race ECM maps) to make up for some of the loss but will probably take a custom mapping or datalogging to get it up to optimum.

[2nastyn8]

I just finished this mod up and did everything almost exactly like yours Urban. I just made a full end cap out of 14Ga steel for it instead of using the existing plate at the rear of the muffler. I was expecting a loss in torque but I dont think I did. I'm almost positive this thing runs better than it did before. In first gear almost anywhere in the rev range I just bounce the throttle and nail it and it climbs up in a wheelie. No clutch. It also almost really wants to in second too but I havent found the right spot, also no clutch. I didnt do a remap or even a tps reset.

[Urban_Assault]

Awesome, glad it helped you out!

How do you like the sound compared to stock?

-Tim

[DrogeN Omen]

me thinks i didn't put enough steel wool in the can...

or my port holes were too big out the back...

[2nastyn8]

Well, I have to admit i like the sound of harleys but not the deafening ugly sound of straight pipes so this is perfect for me. I love the sound, nice deep thump. and ive just noticed these bikes are very finicky. ive been wondering y but no 2 seam perfectly the same to me.

[Alfatango1]

Well, I have to admit i like the sound of harleys but not the deafening ugly sound of straight pipes so this is perfect for me. I love the sound, nice deep thump. and ive just noticed these bikes are very finicky. ive been wondering y but no 2 seam perfectly the same to me.
Yep, that's why data logging seems to be so important to our bikes. That's my next step, get some info logged and then get some help with the maps. I'd like to get some low end back (it's not too bad) and hopefully get rid of some of the popping on decel. A bit rich right now I'd say.

[thnd3r]

It would be great to know how much wool and how fine the mesh is. And how coarse the wool needs to be. or if any of this matters?

[Pockets]

Coarse wool is better than fine. Fine tends to burn up when welding. I've used chopped fiberglass matting and steel wool. Glass is the way to go.

[2nastyn8]

I used course stainless steel wool. I've also been wanting to say, i just forgot, i did do the internal part a little different. I wanted to take pics but forgot the camera when i went to a friends to weld it. I welded the valve permanently open and got rid of the cable. I also only cut out the center pipe but cut two slots in each outer pipe about 6 inches long and an inch wide. in my head this meant a little more back pressure then getting rid of them completely, and somewhat equal pressure in the large center chamber. then i welded the ends of the outer pipes to the end cap i made right where i welded on the tips. sorry its long and i may not of explained it well. but it worked great. like i said i still have the low end grunt and no map or tps reset.

[thnd3r]

How much of the wool is needed.

[thnd3r]

I ordered a pound, is that enough or do I need more

[2nastyn8]

I forgot but i think i just ordered a 4 in wide piece by about 5 or six feet then pulled it apart to spread it out inside

[Pockets]

a pound of it should be plenty depending on how loud you want it.

[thnd3r]

Fairly loud but not annoying loud

[thnd3r]

Got it off and opened up. The chamber on mine is 11 inches long. I have a xb9sx 2009. Also there was no throtle cable on mine. Really easy so far. Can't wait to get her done. Its rainy here and left the bike at work hope to finish on wed. Next day I work

[lawdog]

This is what I did. Gives you another option in the homemade series line of mufflers. Convert your Buell from a sewing machine to a roar of thunder!DIY Installing baffles in muffler (http://www.buellxb.com/Buell-XB-Forum/Do-It-Yourself-Buell-Mods/DIY-Installing-baffles-in-muffler)

[thnd3r]

Got it all done and it sounds great! You would never guess that a sport bike is rollin down the street.

[DrogeN Omen]

finally cut the XB9R muffler on the weekend...

will post pics of what i've done so far next weekend.

[deh2k2]

DrogeN Omen,

Are you going to post pictures? You have me checking everyday!!! LOL.... I am looking at doing my muffler next week, and would love to see the insides before I start cutting away...

Thanks

[DrogeN Omen]

yeah sorry been a bit busy...

will post some up when i get home.

sorry i already started cutting...

inside of muffler is gutted out now.

it just had 3 pipes that i cut out using a grinder with a large cutting disc.

[deh2k2]

.. I totally understand being busy...

I was wondering where the internal walls were inside the muffler, looking for a good gutted muffler picture with no exhaust valve.

thanks

[DrogeN Omen]

ok here is my progress.

could only afford to get 1 muffler tip this week. so have to wait for pay day next week to get the other one.

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20100824184808_L.jpg

stainless steel mesh
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20100824184822_L.jpg

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20100824184830_L.jpg

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20100824184840_L.jpg

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20100824184908_L.jpg

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20100824184935_L.jpg

[deh2k2]

Great pictures....

Can you see or stick something in the gap to see if there is another bulkhead further forward? If so could you measure it? I am trying to determine how much area there is before the weld on the front(marked in red) somewhere in the yellow zone.

Has anyone used Silent Sport Premium muffler packing material?
http://areapnolimits.com/silentsport.html


http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/7165_20100825002304_L.jpg

[deh2k2]

Your picture shows that internal canister really well.

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/7165_20100825010548_L.jpg

So I am trying to figure out how big of a hole I can cut to remove as much of the internal pipes (and weight) as I can. Removing as much forward as I can. I want to keep the back end stock looking.

Here is a picture I captured from youtube that shows that internal canister. From 04xb12s

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ivdn7eno04

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/7165_20100825010601_L.jpg

[DrogeN Omen]

thanks, i'll check the front cavety for you this weekend when i install the Silent Sport fiberglass packing.

will also try and take more pics as i put it back together.

[lilman1027]

may need u to do 1 for me

[DrogeN Omen]

ok finally after 4 months of being busy every weekend i finally managed to have some "ME TIME" and managed to sort my muffler out.

adding the fiber glass packing.
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101203171436_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101203171520_L.jpg

after wrapping round the mesh i tied it together so it was tight round the pipes.
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101203171527_L.jpg

added lots more packing on top and used a screwdriver to push it down the sides.
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101203171534_L.jpg

then i put some more mesh on top of the packing to hold it all in place.
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101203171542_L.jpg

then folded the metal back ready for welding
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101203171553_L.jpg

[Pockets]

Sound clip!

[DrogeN Omen]

still not finished yet, have to cut the pipes back a bit and then weld on the new muffler tips.

should finish it this week hopefully.

[DrogeN Omen]

just finished welding it... its 10:55pm

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101207200028_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101207200037_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101207200047_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101207200054_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101207200115_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101207200127_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101207200138_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20101207200144_L.jpg

now just needs a paint job and well be ready to put back on the bike...

will upload a sound clip as as its finished.

[DrogeN Omen]

here it is.

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<object width="480" height="385"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/WCjwspIkjbI?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/WCjwspIkjbI?fs=1&amp;hl=en_US" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="480" height="385"></embed></object>

[DrogeN Omen]

not sure why the you tube embedded link didn't work... maybe some one could fix it...

here's the direct links...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CF4HvUm6sJk

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCjwspIkjbI

[DrogeN Omen]

how do i reset the engine light?

it goes off when i turn the key on (part of general bike check) but then come back on and stays on when i start the bike.

[DrogeN Omen]

hmmm... tried TPS reset but the engine light is still on...

might have to get dealer to diagnose it...

really don't want to spend any cash though...

any of you have any idea's? tried doing the error codes but didn't work. might be doing it wrong.

[DrogeN Omen]

so what you guys think???

like the sound?

sounds awesome at high speed...

225km on way in to work this morning...

[Urban_Assault]

Well done, thanks for the additional info! [up][up]

-Tim

[jonzin]

Could the check engine light be due to the elimination of the exhaust valve?
If so, you can get an emulator or turn it off with ecm spy.

[DrogeN Omen]

don't think its from the exhaust valve... the servo is still there the cable is just not connected to it.

i managed to make a usb cable with an RS232 chip converter on it but cant download ECMspy anymore...

does anyone have a link or a copy i could have...

[Urban_Assault]

Dro - Just sent you a PM.

-Tim

[DrogeN Omen]

Urban - replied to your pm.

you might have to use winrar to compress the files or it will get rejected by email client.

depending on how large the files are you can specify a size limit and winrar will split the file into a set that you can email me 2 or 3 at a time... email size limit is 20mb so as long as its under 20mb then 1 rar file should be sweet.

[DrogeN Omen]

Grrrrr.... front muffler strap snapped today...

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20110116065804_L.jpg

Is there any way to stop these from snapping? I was thinking maybe some sort of heat resistant rubber to cushion the vibrations...

Or other option I just thought of was welding the muffler to the strap mount that’s bolted to the bike... would this be a good idea and eliminate the front strap all together?

Example below. Yellow line would be where I would weld it.

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20110116065822_L.jpg

[nativeXb12Rbuell]

it probably broke because the strap was OVERTIGHTENED/OVER TORQUED which stretches the strap and in turn WEAKENS IT.
think about it when you taken a piece of metal and you keep bending it back and forth until finally starts to crack then you keep bending it back and forth then it finally BREAKS !

also the manual says to never reuse the front strap probably for that reason. it says to replace the front strap with new one when removed fromt the system.

you ONLY need to TORQUE IT to the Proper specs of
tighten the front and alternately tighten the rear strap fasteners EVENLY till fasteners are tightened to:

a. front tighten around muffler till snug.
b. REAR torue to 48-60 INCH-LBs(5-7Nm)
c. front muffler mount; 16-18FT-LBs(21.7-24.4Nm)
d. Front: 108-120IN-LBs(12-14Nm) then BACK OFF two
full turns and then Retighten to 108-120IN-LBs(12-14Nm) tighten until snug.


( but if it has not been overtightened and strechted out and your carefull to not overstectch or over torque it could be used a few times but it would be best to replace it just make sure yoou thruoghly inspect it before reuseing it)

[DrogeN Omen]

this was a brand new strap, probs 1 month old.

wasn't over tightened. i followed the manual specs.

i think it snapped cause my engine and muffler vibrate like mad...

am thinking it needs some sort of rubber cushioning or something around the strap.

[anrkizm95]

that looks like it broke from being loose.i tightend mine to specs also and it broke.then i tightened the **** out of it and it lasted until i changed pipes.you may also have a rough spot on the bracket where the tear occured.

[DrogeN Omen]

yeah just looked at the muffler and there is a ridge exactly where the snap is... think I'll get some of that fiberglass exhaust wrap and wrap a strip of that around my muffler for cushioning and then put the strap on top of it.

[mailtoome]

great write up guys

[jaylightnin08]

bro, not trying to ****t on you but if those welds hold for more than a couple hundred of miles I will be veryyyyyyy suprised. grindn em down isnt gonna make em any better man. I wish I could help ya but i wouldnt really know how to explain it to ya

[DrogeN Omen]

yeah i fixed the welds up, and bogged it up will paint it in a couple weeks.

will post pics when done.

[davy1977]

hi what would happen if you just leave the chamber empty ?

[mailtoome]

I think with the chamber empty, u may lose back pressure n bottom . I had a gutted muffler which is worse cause u really lose low n mid n top end. So I think the packing makes this design work creating back pressure. Just my opinion

[DrogeN Omen]

ok so after months of procrastination i finally got around to finishing off my exhaust.

painted it with Dupli-Color 700c black exhaust paint.
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20110329185823_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20110329185843_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20110329185911_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20110329185928_L.jpg

[wally]

i have a quick question regarding this mod - forgive me if it sounds dumb: did you pack in the steel wool first and then the mesh or mesh with steel pressed on top to prevent it from blowing out?

i am at the bum end of the world (South Africa) and finding parts (for just about anything) is a real mission! i want to do this mod over the weekend.

bottom end torque/power OK?

any issues to look out for when running this set up?

btw - i have a 2008/9 Ulysses XT with the exhaust valve - which is why most shops don't want to touch the Buells. also HD dealership said they could do the gut at a cost of $320, plus i have to pay shipping!

that is almost more than what a custom slip-on will cost!

[DrogeN Omen]

Hey Wally

I put the fiberglass packing down first and then put the stainless steel down on top and wrapped it around the end of the pipes, then i put more fiberglass packing on top.

example
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20110406052424_L.jpg

another option is you could weld 2 stainless steel pipes together and drill a bunch of hols for the gasses to escape, and then weld them in place inside the muffler and add the fiberglass packing all around it, that way there is no way the packing will blow out the back.

example:
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20110406052448_L.jpg

[wally]

cool, thanx!

any other issue one should be aware of before doing this!?

[DrogeN Omen]

no issues that i have experienced.

just make sure you do a TPS reset once you have done the mod.

[d_adams]

Why not just buy perforated tubing in stainless?

http://i643.photobucket.com/albums/uu151/dadams1969/exhaust%20stuff/2009_05290019.jpg

[DrogeN Omen]

ya could do that if its available in your area...

i couldn't find any though so used the stainless steel mesh instead...

[wally]

cool, thanx for the response guys!

1 more quickie: i how dense do you need to stuff the packing? hoping to get to it this weekend if i can get all the materials required.

[DrogeN Omen]

depends how loud you want it...the more packing you use the louder it will be..

if you use mesh you need to make sure you tie the mesh to the pipes at each end securely with wire or the mesh and packing will just move to the back of the pipe and probs blow out the end.

speaking from experience... lol

[wally]

haha! that must be quite a sight!

thanx! i will keep that in mind! [up]

[wally]

hoping to get around doing my exhaust mod this weekend. saw a fellow Beuller in traffic yesterday - he bought the guy that services my bikes' Buell Lightning. he had the exhaust mod done and it sounded great!

have all my materials - perforated 50mm stainless exhaust tubes and 50mm elbow bends for tips (bought from local custom exhaust manufacturer), need to get some packing, then i am good to go!

[wally]

mmmm...turned out to be much tougher than i thought! was aiming to get it all done in about 3 hours.

nice try! 5 hours later and the exhaust is gutted. took me a while to get the right tools and get the exhaust off. the jigsaw move didn't work too well for me, so i had to gauge how far to go with the angle grinder...

welding in the pipes tonight, hope to get the pipe welded up tomorrow evening and then installed the next evening. meanwhile, the V8 is sucking my wallet dry. :(

[wally]

finally got the mod done - 1 week later! everything worked against me! tools not working correctly, too little time in the evenings..

anyway, decided to take exhaust in to Scorch Exhausts (http://www.scorchdesign.co.za/) to get packed and welded up. i did the finishing, spraying and fitting.

boy, what a difference! does anybody elses backfire really loudly!?

need to get TPS reset done at HD in the week.

thanx for the help and great thread!

[DrogeN Omen]

yeah my bike backfires when down shifting.

got any pics or a youtube clip of it running?

here's mine
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CF4HvUm6sJk
- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WCjwspIkjbI

[wally]

i will try and take a video clip during the week.

here are some of the build shots:
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/9521_20110612002003_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/9521_20110612002239_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/9521_20110612002455_L.jpg
http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/9521_20110612002558_L.jpg

then afterwards i had to give the Uly a long overdue wash! i don't think mine is as loud as yours, though it is difficult to gauge with the helmet on.

[wally]

here is a link (http://youtu.be/r2H8jur2MBE) to the start up this morning.

will have to a riding one later. :D

have to get new bolts holding chin fairing in place. out of the 5 on the sides there were only 2 left!

[DrogeN Omen]

nice mate. sounds awesome...

company i work for just added a South African Safari motorbike adventure tour to our list of trips.

http://www.compassexpeditions.com/home/africa.html

[wally]

cool! you joining them as well?

[DrogeN Omen]

naw im too poor at the moment to join take part in any rides...

hows your muffler going? you like the sound?

post a sound bite or vid of it...

[brightbuell]

Hey Wally can you take that orange and white rectangle sticker of your swingarm because its just a factory warning sticker and your swingarm looks soooo ,much cleaner with it off. Nice pipe by the way!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[kab]

would i be able to spray some pb blaster on the header and exhaust clamp where they meet? where mine join is pretty rusty. wasn't sure if it would be a problem.

[wally]

i know brightbuell - will spend some time over the holidays detailing her - life was just busy and tough the last year.

DrogeN, i dig it! when you accelerate you hear the grunt of the exhaust and it has a really loud back fire - which works great for riding in traffic!

[skidude]

I took adremel to the inside ring on the exhaust tip and drilled 2 small holes just inside of the exhaust on the left side and used a dremel amd connected the 2 holes to make 1 larger hole about the size of a quarter. The sound diffrence is unreal and it cost nothng and takes 10 minutes. If you look at a diagram of the buell exhaust this mod will make sense, It basically gives some of the gasses a direct path out of the exhaust. I lost no power on the low end and i had no engine light come on. If you are skeptical just try for yourself and you will hear he diffrence. will add some pics tom. for anyone that needs or wants to see it.

[skidude]

This mod works! and its super easyhttp://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/12334_20120210114106_L.jpg

[Route0766]

Hi SkiDude,
Do you have any Video to share?
Thanks

[DrogeN Omen]

a mate modified my factory muffler.

its bloody awesome.

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20130501122648_L.jpg

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20130501123132_L.jpg

http://www.buellxb.com/buell_images/5539_20130501123424_L.jpg

[juGGernaut]

So I read on here that the more packing you put in, the louder it is, not really true, my jardine is a hollow pipe pretty much and love the sound of it, did my own exhaust mod and cut all the pipes out of the middle section then filled it with SOS stainless steel pads, I spread them out first then layed them in, somewhat tight, and honestly it sounds stock.... Also did dual outlets that are about 2.5 inches diameter, also feels like I lost some power around 3000 rpm, I will be looking on these threads to figure out what people have had best results with. Anyone have a jardine and do this mod? Love the sound but hate the jardine look

[DrogeN Omen]

Mine is a stock pipe with middle pipes in tact, cut out the butterfly valve and left an open chamber at the front, cut out pipes at the end and created an open chamber at the end. wrapped fiberglass mat around all 3 pipes in the middle and then hard packed the around the pipes with fiberglass muffler packing. my outlets are 3 inches long by 1.5 inches wide at one end and 1 inch wide at the other. i only have a 2 inch wide perforated section on the 2 larger pipes. the middle pipe i left intact.

From my experience you don't want too many holes in your baffle. 2 inches worth of holes is fine.

Now have full rev range and acceleration, more torque down low and no longer have any flat spots. I have a EBR ECM pre-programed for a Drummer SS.

it sounds awesome.

will post vid of it running next sunny day.