Does anyone object to me soldering this?

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doberdann1019

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Does anyone object to me soldering this? I am planning on bending the wires straight and filling the whole thing with solder to create a solid connection again. When the bike power is on (engine off) and I wiggle the positive cable power switched on and off. Probably not something I want happening at 60 mph..

16607_20140529131403_L.jpg


16607_20140529131427_L.jpg


16607_20140529131415_L.jpg
 
It would work but if your already messin with it I would just out a new eyelet on...or at least cut off that one spread the crimp out put a good section in the crimp..crimp it and then solder it..
 
You can solder it but you will need to put so much heat into it that your better off just getting a new connector and crimping it........also doing a recrimp will allow an easier fix if it happens again
 
At work we typically crimp and solder the 2 and 4 gauge wires on various builds. Use a small Blazer torch and works well. Just make sure any rubber is removed first so it doesn't burn up.
 
At work we typically crimp and solder the 2 and 4 gauge wires on various builds. Use a small Blazer torch and works well. Just make sure any rubber is removed first so it doesn't burn up.
Click to expand...

^ [up] You could slide a piece of nice shrink tube on there, (WAY up as far away from the end as possible), then shrink it once your done soldering. This WILL make a nice connection for you. I'd pull the cable off the bike if posible and do it in a vise or something though. I don't THINK that would be too difficult?
 
This is what I ended up doing. It takes all the stress off the smaller two wires and is cleaner for future fixes. I slid the heat shirk down over the eyelets and nut/bolt after I took the picture. I plan on returning it to the original design eventually, but this was quick, easy and effective. Who know, I will probably keep it like this forever..

Thanks for all the help!

16607_20140530065939_L.jpg
 
if it works go for it. i used to solder 4, 2, 1/0 ga wire for car audio when i was installing and competing a the pro level. i did jumpers like that for the alternators and grounds. the only issue that you might have with that set up it a higher voltage resistance, but shouldn't give you any big problems other than working itself loose.
 
If you solder, the solder may seep up the cable and leave a very stiff/solid section towards the end. Like NO flexibility.
When I did a battery relocate on my truck I used an eyelet like this...
eyeletcomparison2_lg.jpg


It involved a torch, melting some solder into the "cap", then shoving the wire in.

When searching for this picture, I came across some auto stereo eyelets that bolt-crimp the wires... that might be the best solution yet...
http://batterystoreonline.com/optim...er-pos?zenid=041e945d85fee2a77723e432aadc5410

or
http://batterystoreonline.com/optim...et-1-0?zenid=041e945d85fee2a77723e432aadc5410

No experience with this shop, just examples.
 
Make sure you score the inside of the eyelets just like you would for a copper plumbing pipe. This will help the solder adhere to your eyelet. The second choice would be a better option for you. Vibration may be an issue so I would loctite the set screw.
 
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