Ten ****ing Buellfockeries

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mrlogix

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Jul 20, 2011
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Cincinnati, Ohio
Went out with the girlfriend last night when I got off work for a short ride just to relax after a hard day. We stopped about 10 miles a way at a Mickey D's to get a bite to eat. When we came back out to leave the bike started and we started to out. Nothing. Bike died and would not restart. Buellfockery. No click, no lights, nothing. Started to check it out. About 3 months ago the power wire to the ignition switch had broken/frayed and I had dis-assembled it, repaired the wire by soldering the break joint and shrink wrapped it. I had thought about lengthening this part of the harness, but didn't because I wanted to ride. Buellfockery. Sure enough, upon inspection the same wire had broken again. By this time it's 1 o'clock in the morning. I went in and talked to the manager and explained that I was broke down. They are a 24 hour Mc D's and said I could leave the bike overnight and assured me that they had surveillance cameras that covered where my bike was parked. Called a cab, which took forever (time for all the drunks to start getting out of the bars on a Saturday night). Buellfockery. Getting ready for work now. When I get off this afternoon, I will go get the bike and start over again only this time I am going to lengthen all the ignition switch wires by 3-4 inches. I will try to document the procedure with photo's this time and post for all the newb's. Buellfockery, Buellfockery, Buellfockery, Buellfockery, Buellfockery, Buellfockery, Buellfockery.
 
Hope its still there, I am extremely protective of my motorcycles and wont let them out of sight on trips if it can be helped.
My experience with those wires and repairing them isnt so much a length issue, but the wires need a stiff supporting shield, can be solid but a couple layers of heat shrink will help them reaist bending and breaking the wires.
 
Yeah, came to the same conclusion on the cab ride home. Going to lengthen and support better. This time around. Didn't want to leave the bike there, but didn't have a choice. My truck is 4 wheel drive and my ramp makes it a two person job. Bet I buy a trailer soon.
 
Dang, sorry to hear that.

My truck is a 4x4 too and I was tired of trying to find a dry ditch or mound of dirt every time I had to load up a bike. I don't have a spot for a M/c trailer so I got one of these:
http://www.discountramps.com/smc-60...062_g_c_pla_&gclid=CJ7787W6v8cCFYMWHwodRI8Egw
Not my pic...
VHSPORTBIKE5.jpg


at first I didn't trust it because it wiggles a bit in the hitch, so I ran a couple tie down to the ends of the bumper. Now I don't even do that.
 
Is your hitch a class III or IV? Is it okay to use a class III hitch with that versahaul?
 
Man, that sucks! I have a heavy duty cable style lock just for these unexpected situations. I've had to tether my bike somewhere over night only one time. Knowing it was locked to a light pole made me feel a little better about the situation. I don't own a pick up truck or a trailer but I have experiance cramming an xb inside a 2012 chrystler town and country!
Good luck with the repair mrlogix. At least you know what the issue is.
 
Figure 500# total weight for the hitch and bike so I think any 2" receiver would be fine. Some of the cheaper (harbor freight) ones have really short loading ramps that are worthless. The one above for only $250 is really nice. You get used to it see-sawing while loading. It actually helps;)

As for the ignition wire, I forgot to mention super flexible, thick silicone jacketed, primary wire. I'm lucky and these guys are close enough I used to get to raid the scrap bin:
http://50.63.82.252/silicone-insulated-extra-flexible-hookup-wire/
It can be pricey, but search the inter-web e-amazon-list thingy and I'm sure you can get less than 100' somewhere.

Maybe instead, you can rob a coiled charging cord from something you aren't using?

I'm just brainstorming out loud.
 
^^ no please brainstorm away :). That one of the cool things about this forum is the 'Brain Trust'. Always looking forward to seeing things from a different perspective, :cool:. Waiting for the ol' lady :)distracted: ) to finish in the shower so she can go with me and drive the truck back home.
 
I got the bike home. My son (bless his little heart) showed up to help (which actually slowed everything down) and visit. Got the section of the harness removed that goes to the ignition switch removed and re-soldered. While I was dis-assembling I happened to notice something. I'll post pic's later when I get time. Didn't lengthen the harness or anything yet. Just fixed it enough to get it home. More later.
 
I had taken a few pics while I was taking it apart yesterday. Just looked at them and I guess my phone camera sucks. I hardly ever take pictures with it, so I didn't realize. Sorry.

Anyway, yes the wire was broke about 1/2" below where it solders to the connector on the back of the ignition switch. I did notice that from the perspective of looking down the length of the ignition switch when it is mounted, the wire bundle going to the connector in the back of the switch is channeled throught the opening where the headlight/IC mounting bracket attaches to the frame.

wire 1.jpg

the wire bundle is hitting the left and right sides of this channel as the forks are turned lock to lock. At full turn (both left and right) this contact causes the bundle to flex as the tunnel in the bracket is narrower than the arc of movement of the bundle. This flexing in addition to the wire harness being a little tight in this area are what is causing the wires to break. During normal riding this isn't a problem, but when the bike is parked, loaded or any manuever that requires the forks to be turned lock to lock aggravates this problem. I re-soldered the break, just to get it home. Over the next couple of days I will re-re-re-re-dis-assemble (Buellfockery) the harness to properly rewire and figure out what remediation is required. Most likely changing the wiring in this location to a high flex conductor and a little dremel massaging of the headlight/fairing bracket. I will borrow the ol' lady's phone to take pictures this time.
 
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ended up using 16/4 sjow wire to replace the factory wiring. trimmed the old wires out about 1" from the connector to the harness and soldered and heat shrink. Still not happy with the fix though. This before picture shows the problem better about the wire hitting the headlight/fairing bracket and bending the wires causing them to break.

wire 5.jpg

I think I am going to try something different. I want to leave the lock cylinder there because it will lock the forks. I want to relocate the wire harness back on the seat sub-frame or on the main part of the bike somewhere. I have created a 3D model of a new upper triple tree (kind of like the one that EBR used on the 1190) except that I have a recess that I can mount a plate with three micro toggle switches. I was planning on using one of the toggle switches to interrupt the headlight circuit so I could start the bike without the headlights automatically being on (this will also allow me to turn the power on with TunePro connected without draining the battery from the lights). I could use one to turn on the power to the bike like the key switch. If I remember correctly Shawns wired one of his bikes to use a RFID reader to turn the ignition on or something like that. They make commercially available thumbprint reader as an ignition switch (not a starter button) but don't like that idea. Any other ideas?
 

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