Can't Take it Anymore! Gotta do the swap

[Cjdesign]

Ok so I know there is a TON of info on here about the stator swap power suck issue. What I can't seem to find is a step by step from diagnosis to complete repair.

I have a VR from Cooter (Thanks Cooter 2 years back!) and it seemed to fix the issue once I removed the Harley bandaid, but it will not charge now if it's even remotely hot. Brand new battery. Sits at 12.4 volts for a few minutes, 12.2 for 15 minutes, 12.0 for 10 then drops to 11.8 and the bike starts to freak out. If someone in Utah was willing to do the swap for me i'd totally pay them. I'm gone so much for work I can't seem to keep up.

[Cooter]

The Stator test is easy and fast. Set your meter to AC volts and follow the manual. Bummer is, it's not the only part that will make the bike not charge.

Research the procedure and it should take less than 15 mins to test and find what went wrong. Could be a fuse, another VR (hopefully not), or a connection...

[Cjdesign]

The Stator test is easy and fast. Set your meter to AC volts and follow the manual. Bummer is, it's not the only part that will make the bike not charge.

Research the procedure and it should take less than 15 mins to test and find what went wrong. Could be a fuse, another VR (hopefully not), or a connection...

OK: It passed the ground test and the resistance test resulted in .8 olhms on all 3 - with a multi-meter probe-to-probe test of .2 olhms

It's too late to be revving my bike - neighbor across the way would kill me - so i'll do that in the AM

[BambamXB12r]

I would be willing to bet bad stator. Is it a 2009? Your description of the symptoms in the first post were exactly what was going with my old 1125. I swapped the stator and rotor because mine was a 2009 and never had another problem again. I had to purchase my drilled rotor from twin motorcycles(EBR was shut down at the time) and the stator from ricks motorsport electrics. The swap was pretty straight forward just following the instructions in the service manual.

[Cjdesign]

The Stator test is easy and fast. Set your meter to AC volts and follow the manual. Bummer is, it's not the only part that will make the bike not charge.

Research the procedure and it should take less than 15 mins to test and find what went wrong. Could be a fuse, another VR (hopefully not), or a connection...

Stator passed with flying colors 3000k rpm was around 45-50v on all 3 poles.

Now what!

[Cooter]

Keep reading the manual, my man....
On to the VR...

[34nineteen]

Next step is to check the regulator/rectifier (and the plug)

Be aware that sometimes electrical parts will act differently between when they are hot or cold. If you are having problems when hot and the tests are done with the bike is cold, you may need to go back and retrace your steps.

Also, how “brand new” is your battery? You wouldn’t be the first person with a bad “brand new” battery. Or in the case if my bike, the “brand new” battery (according to the PO) was going on 3 years old.

[34nineteen]

Dammit Cooter, you didn’t sell him a Ducati VR for his Buell, did you??:black_eyed: heheheh

[Cjdesign]

Next step is to check the regulator/rectifier (and the plug)

Be aware that sometimes electrical parts will act differently between when they are hot or cold. If you are having problems when hot and the tests are done with the bike is cold, you may need to go back and retrace your steps.

Also, how “brand new” is your battery? You wouldn’t be the first person with a bad “brand new” battery. Or in the case if my bike, the “brand new” battery (according to the PO) was going on 3 years old.

Yup it was toast.

So I have a new non shunt style mosfet- but am not sure which yellow wire goes where..
Here is the VR I have:

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F38 0704480069

[Cjdesign]

Fixed! Was the VR. Now to find a better location so this one doesn’t fry too..

THANK you to all who have been patient with me.