-
Denny, you are bouncing around 10 different things at once, no wonder you're confused! An electrical circuit is exactly that. A circuit. The starting point is the battery, so you'll need to start there and slowly, methodically go through the 'circuit' until you get back to the battery. You will definitely find the problem.
When the manual says you should "get voltage" it means battery voltage, 12+VDC. A test light may be easier for you and will test this circuit just fine. A change from .1 to .3 isn't anything other that a cheap digital meter.
When the manual asked if the relay clicks, it means the starter relay. The ignition relay is not the circuit you are testing.
Try a couple quick shortcuts before we actually do this the right way...
1) At the switch housing where you tested the Black/red wire... do you have 12V on the other wire that goes to the yellow button? I forget the color, but this beer is delicious.
2) At the relay where you're testing the #86 terminal, do you have 12V at the #30 terminal (the sideways one)?
3) At the solenoid, you'll have 12V at the big wire that goes to the battery, the other big wire goes to the starter, so it will only have 12V while cranking. There should be 2 small wires there too. One will be ground, the other should show 12V while the yellow button is pressed (It won't right now, but if you jump 12v to it, the bike will crank over).
4) Look at the relays. If they have the same number on them (regardless of color) they are interchangeable. Swap the start one with another (not the ignition one that clicks) and see what happens.
That's all the short cuts I got for ya. Personally I think the yellow button isn't getting power to it. The red kill switch in the same housing turns on the ignition and also arms that yellow button. Check it out while it's apart.
Last edited by Cooter; 05-01-2016 at 10:42 PM.
Tags for this Thread
Posting Permissions
- You may not post new threads
- You may not post replies
- You may not post attachments
- You may not edit your posts
-
Forum Rules