What shim kit & crank/cam tools?

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Mesozoic

Mesozoic

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 4, 2008
Messages
385
Location
Tucson, AZ
I've essentially "shelved" my 1125CR until I'm able to a) find someone who is trustworthy enough to do the valve adjustment or b) my garage frees up and I'm able to do it myself. I would really like to do this job myself, but there's definitely a few issues. First, I just got permits to start construction on my garage, so it might not be the best idea to start working on the bike inside it right now. The second issue is that there's a lot of chatter about where to source the shim kit and also unsure about the crank and cam locking tools. If anyone could point me in the right direction regarding the tools and shim kit, I'd appreciate it very much.
 
Thats a good move. Plus the job will be much easier done once the garage is built. No point of having it all torn apart with construction debris contaminating everything.

I think Dean Adams sells the crank locking tool. IIRC the shim kit is the same as the V-rod. I've dealt with aftermarket shim kits (on other bikes) and have had measurements really out of tolerance. Its not that big of a deal, just be sure to measure each one carefully and make sure they are sorted properly. I've heard stories of the aftermarket shim kits having plating/coating issues, but that is just here say.

The HD shims may be more expensive, but I'd hate to see you have a severe engine problem (or just have to go back in and do it again) because you saved a few bucks on an aftermarket shim kit. This may be the better way to go.
 
The shim kit for the 1125 isn't anything special, the usual 'stay away from China' applies:upset: I have a full set from EBR and the usual big Hot Cams kit everyone has. The EBR set is nice because it goes to the 0.000:up: That lets me set the valves exactly at the loose end of spec, doing that usually lets the next service adjustment, just be a 'check' and more time for beer:up:

For the last 30 years I have always checked them before installing. It's not a job you want to do twice and I mix in the unlabeled OE ones I remove. I have never found one out of spec. I'm not saying it's impossible, it's super easy to just check them. I also remember that one thread you're talking about where the guy swore he could 'sand them down easier' LOL. Uh, no. Nothing to see here, move on.:)
 
Would anyone be kind enough and willing to ship me a crank locking tool for the valve shimming task... to 85743? I tried to buy one, but Dean's out of stock, EBR website is shot, and St. Paul's HD wants $100 for one.
 
I have two of them, one from NCCR and another from EBR.... I thought I had lost mine and bought another, be glad to sell one to you, paid $70
 
Cooter said:
The shim kit for the 1125 isn't anything special, the usual 'stay away from China' applies:upset: I have a full set from EBR and the usual big Hot Cams kit everyone has. The EBR set is nice because it goes to the 0.000:up: That lets me set the valves exactly at the loose end of spec, doing that usually lets the next service adjustment, just be a 'check' and more time for beer:up:

For the last 30 years I have always checked them before installing. It's not a job you want to do twice and I mix in the unlabeled OE ones I remove. I have never found one out of spec. I'm not saying it's impossible, it's super easy to just check them. I also remember that one thread you're talking about where the guy swore he could 'sand them down easier' LOL. Uh, no. Nothing to see here, move on.:)
Click to expand...

Very common practice to sand shims down if they are close to the size you need. We just used the same stone that we used to finish heads. If it is a shim under bucket, no worries at all. Shim over bucket its best to not sand the side that contacts the cam lobe.
 
Well, I've got the shim kit from St. Paul's HD - appears to be 40 bags of 5 shims each, all varying thicknesses. Aside from the need to organize them in bins, I still need the crank tool, I think. Reading the service manual for engine rotation and valve adjustment however, does not seem to indicate a need for a crank tool, only a ratchet to rotate the engine. Clearly, I must be missing something since I've never performed the adjustment.
 
It shouldn’t need the crank locked in place. I would make sure to pull both spark plugs at the same time, so you don’t have to deal with pressure in the other cylinder moving the engine.

Don’t forget to inspect/replace the timing chain guides. I’d hate to see you do all that for nothing.
 
34nineteen said:
It shouldn’t need the crank locked in place. I would make sure to pull both spark plugs at the same time, so you don’t have to deal with pressure in the other cylinder moving the engine.

Don’t forget to inspect/replace the timing chain guides. I’d hate to see you do all that for nothing.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I believe I have new guides too from my parts order last year. Newer revision of the part as well, from what I recall.
 
I thought there was more to this thread.
If all you're doing is a valve adjust, theres no special tools I can think of? Pulling the plugs is a good idea, or turn it over slowly instead of fighting compression for no reason. Either way make sure you're on the heel of the cam lobe you are checking.

If they are close and you want to sand them OG style, good god make sure the faces are parallel.

The set you got from SPHD should go to .000 so set them on the loose side of spec and the next interval you owe me a beer if you don't have to pull the cams:very_drunk:
 
Cooter said:
I thought there was more to this thread.
If all you're doing is a valve adjust, theres no special tools I can think of? Pulling the plugs is a good idea, or turn it over slowly instead of fighting compression for no reason. Either way make sure you're on the heel of the cam lobe you are checking.

If they are close and you want to sand them OG style, good god make sure the faces are parallel.

The set you got from SPHD should go to .000 so set them on the loose side of spec and the next interval you owe me a beer if you don't have to pull the cams:very_drunk:
Click to expand...

I believe I will be doing much more work while I'm at it, actually. Aside from the valve adjustment, I'm on the hook for replacing the main engine cover gasket, which also means replacing several water pump related components. I've also got the high bar kit I intend to address while the bike is apart.
 
I meant more to the engine work, because you asked for a crank locking tool. I don't know what a "main engine gasket" is but I don't think you'll need a locking tool for that either. :angel:

If you are going to address the crank nut (re-torque/Loc-tite) and the water pump pin, then you will need it, and it's worth every penny to just buy one. Heck, you can put it up for sale on here after you use it:up:
 
Cooter said:
I meant more to the engine work, because you asked for a crank locking tool. I don't know what a "main engine gasket" is but I don't think you'll need a locking tool for that either. :angel:

If you are going to address the crank nut (re-torque/Loc-tite) and the water pump pin, then you will need it, and it's worth every penny to just buy one. Heck, you can put it up for sale on here after you use it:up:
Click to expand...

I have the following parts which I believe I purchased to address a leaking engine cover last year. I've temporarily fixed the problem by smearing some Permatex RightStuff on a certain area, but the gasket has failed completely. I think what I've got here are the parts needed to upgrade to the MY2010 water pump configuration - assuming I need a crank locking tool?
  • R0022A.3AM clutch cover assembly (2010)
  • Q0428.3AM waterpump shaft assembly (2010)
  • CB0028.1AM thrust washer (2010)
  • Q0430.3AM oil seal (2010)
  • Q0431.3AM rotary seal (2010)
  • R0001.1AM clutch cover gasket (2010)
  • Q0426.1AM water pump gasket (2010)
  • CJ0001.1AM sealing ring
 

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