Just picked up 09' 1125r and engine has a distinct knocking upon start up and while idling. Not really noticeable when riding but I've got helmet on so can't really hear anything. I don't see any flakes on dipstick so thats good. My question is this normal engine noise or are there known problems that need to be fixed. The bike has 16,000mi on it owner had got it from brother so didn't know much about maintenance done on bike other than he remembers bike going in to fix electrical issues. So I'd like to know if there is any like preventative maintenance I should do on the bike before I go riding hard. The oil looks brand new it was a little more than .25 Liter low when I checked it, so added synthetic 10w-30 and it make the knocking noise a little quieter I think. I don't see any places where it would be leaking oil and took finger felt around exhaust tip there no soot. I just don't any other 1125's to compare it too. I wanna go riding but I don't wanna make something worse. Any suggestions for new owner ?
New to this bike is engine knocking noise normal??
- Thread starter sumguy
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Barrett
Well-known member
Known documented sources of engine noise/knock/rattle on all 2009 Buell 1125 models
Charging system component known as the rotor has come loose from its crankshaft end attachment. Factory issued TSB re. inspect/install new nut/retorque to new specs
Faulty cam chain tensioner on certain production date Rotax 1125 engines. Factory issued recall re. check and replacement
Failing cush drive assembly(extremely rare)
Clutch hub attachment nut loose
I would NOT continue to ride it until, at the very least, the stator rotor is carefully checked for tightness. AND...most all 1125 cush drive assemblies have an acceptable "rattle" under load at 4000RPM and below.
Charging system component known as the rotor has come loose from its crankshaft end attachment. Factory issued TSB re. inspect/install new nut/retorque to new specs
Faulty cam chain tensioner on certain production date Rotax 1125 engines. Factory issued recall re. check and replacement
Failing cush drive assembly(extremely rare)
Clutch hub attachment nut loose
I would NOT continue to ride it until, at the very least, the stator rotor is carefully checked for tightness. AND...most all 1125 cush drive assemblies have an acceptable "rattle" under load at 4000RPM and below.
That sounds major. So I'm gonna have to invest in a service/repair manual. I'm hoping these are things I can repair myself, I have some mechanical sense. Is there a way to identify if the rotor/stator is original or has been replaced. Replacing the rotor was one of the re-calls i think. I'm gonna have to do some "how to" research on repairing this thing I guess. Hopefully theres a book out there somewhere lol. Now you say there is a noise under load 4000rpm and below does that mean at idle as well. I would hate to go deep into this engine only to find out it's just me being paranoid. What I need to do is track down another bike somewhere here in western Washington so I can here what it is supposed to sound like. So anyone in or near Tacoma WA hit me up if you have an 1125r I can listen to. Now that I said that I should see if theres any rider clubs around here, duh. Anyways thank you for the input I'll post results as they come. And I'm still open to any and all info on bike. Thanks
Cooter
Well-known member
Heres a free copy of the service manual:eagerness:
http://buellmods.com/content/downloads/manuals/1125/1125_service_manual.pdf
That link also has a diagnostic manual and electrical manual.
That said, the 1125's have a notoriously loud (and normal) valve train that gets even louder with hard use and high temps. It can be disconcerting to new 1125 owners. The fact that you can't hear it with you helmet on tell me you're probably OK but shoot a good video and post it. Like Barrett mentioned, it is worth pulling the case sides to check torque on both the rotor and clutch basket. That doesn't mean crank them on as hard as you can, it means removing the nut, cleaning, apply red loctite, and re-torque. You should use the "crank tool" to lock it in place for that procedure.
It is important to use a "V-Twin specific" oil at the weight recommended for the "highest temp it will be ridden" (Page 1-11). Typically thats 20w-50. Opinions abound but the manual doesn't care if its synthetic or not. I wouldn't worry about that tiny amount of 10-30 you put in (unless you overfilled it), but why not change it anyway, especially since the PO has no idea of its maintenance history. The check procedure is important to follow exactly, if it says ride it, ride it. Get it in the middle of the range. Dripping in oil to the top mark is something inexperienced people do, pointless, and importantly... too much oil can be just as catastrophic as too little. Thats why there is a "range".
I was using an 1125CR for trackday riding in Hot Sticky Florida and that extreme example I was recommended to use straight 60 weight V-twin oil. It quieted the valve train noise considerably and the bike even ran cooler:up:
As a side note on the "electrical issue", it was a fault for 2009 only that the stator would overheat. The "fix" is a bypass harness to shut off one leg of the stator when it wasn't needed. Probably OK now, but if you want to obsess over it there are VR upgrades you can do.
http://buellmods.com/content/downloads/manuals/1125/1125_service_manual.pdf
That link also has a diagnostic manual and electrical manual.
That said, the 1125's have a notoriously loud (and normal) valve train that gets even louder with hard use and high temps. It can be disconcerting to new 1125 owners. The fact that you can't hear it with you helmet on tell me you're probably OK but shoot a good video and post it. Like Barrett mentioned, it is worth pulling the case sides to check torque on both the rotor and clutch basket. That doesn't mean crank them on as hard as you can, it means removing the nut, cleaning, apply red loctite, and re-torque. You should use the "crank tool" to lock it in place for that procedure.
It is important to use a "V-Twin specific" oil at the weight recommended for the "highest temp it will be ridden" (Page 1-11). Typically thats 20w-50. Opinions abound but the manual doesn't care if its synthetic or not. I wouldn't worry about that tiny amount of 10-30 you put in (unless you overfilled it), but why not change it anyway, especially since the PO has no idea of its maintenance history. The check procedure is important to follow exactly, if it says ride it, ride it. Get it in the middle of the range. Dripping in oil to the top mark is something inexperienced people do, pointless, and importantly... too much oil can be just as catastrophic as too little. Thats why there is a "range".
I was using an 1125CR for trackday riding in Hot Sticky Florida and that extreme example I was recommended to use straight 60 weight V-twin oil. It quieted the valve train noise considerably and the bike even ran cooler:up:
As a side note on the "electrical issue", it was a fault for 2009 only that the stator would overheat. The "fix" is a bypass harness to shut off one leg of the stator when it wasn't needed. Probably OK now, but if you want to obsess over it there are VR upgrades you can do.
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34nineteen
Well-known member
Is it a red bike bought from some homeless guy in an el Camino in so cal. That would explain a lot!
Cooter
Well-known member
It's not homeless. It is "The Way"
First off let me say thank you to Cooter for the manual. Earlier I searched on amazon they had 1 hardcopy in stock only $340.99 with a bonus electrical manual. Anyways I went to shoot a quick video of what bike sounds like on cold start and now the knocking noise is gone. I didn't feel like riding around in the rain to warm it up to see if noise would start again. Every other time I've started the bike it had a noticeable knocking. So I'm not sure what thats all about. The PO said he hadn't rode the bike to often so maybe things needed to loosen up in the motor from sitting to long. And yes as I type that last bit I realized how dumb that sounds. And yes dribbling oil to the fill line is done by the inexperienced, but it is also done by the eager who want to ride they're new bike and have enough common sense to make sure it has enough oil in it. But first thing is do an oil change, actually need to order oil filter first. As long as the oil that comes out doesn't look like a 70's jet boat paint job and the knocking noise doesn't come back I'm hoping I can put off having to crack open the motor right now. Haven't had a chance to read through manual yet so don't even know how difficult it's gonna be to get at those nuts and re torque them. Finally red bike yes homeless guy no. And I don't care what anybody says my last bike was an 03' Lightning with a Jardine slip-on and it sounded badass. I loved pulling up somewhere and people are looking around expecting some big HOG to roll up but instead it's me on some little street-fighter looking bike that should not be sounding like it does. To me thats the only real disappointing thing about the 1125r is the sound, well that and the cheap plastic dipstick they stole off a lawnmower. Thanks again for the manual it's much appreciated. Any suggestions on where to order oil filter from.
Cooter
Well-known member
I have a Barkers pipe and matching ECM for an 1125CR if you're interested Similar sound to a Jardine but MUCH higher quality:eagerness:
However, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting the noise sorted first if it's a problem...
Similar sound to a Jardine but MUCH higher quality:eagerness:However, I'd HIGHLY recommend getting the noise sorted first if it's a problem...
34nineteen
Well-known member
Barrett
Well-known member
Pronounced engine noise and you're discussing mapping and mufflers?
You added incorrect viscosity oil for the Rotax twin in the 1125.
You state you can't find an oil filter.
A sound investment, cheap money, peace of mind...change the oil and filter to definitively eliminate the lubricant as source of excessive engine noise. The below should help.
OIL CAPACITY WITH FILTER CHANGE---3 US quarts
Stock oil filter H-D part # Q1064.1AM
""""""""""""""" Rotax part # RB-X341
K&N oil filter part # KN-556
HiFlo oil filter part # HF564 ( HiFlo one of the finest filters on the market)
The HiFlo and K&N part numbers readily available on Ebay and priced right.
Use a quality conventional non-syn 20W50 your first oil change. Must be motorcycle specific and meet JASO-MA ratings. Most run a quality 15W40 in these motors. A quality 20W50 will quiet the typical Rotax engine racket.
And check the drain plug sealing washer. Replace if required.
18mm x 24mm x 1.5mm
12mm x 18mm x 1.5mm
You added incorrect viscosity oil for the Rotax twin in the 1125.
You state you can't find an oil filter.
A sound investment, cheap money, peace of mind...change the oil and filter to definitively eliminate the lubricant as source of excessive engine noise. The below should help.
OIL CAPACITY WITH FILTER CHANGE---3 US quarts
Stock oil filter H-D part # Q1064.1AM
""""""""""""""" Rotax part # RB-X341
K&N oil filter part # KN-556
HiFlo oil filter part # HF564 ( HiFlo one of the finest filters on the market)
The HiFlo and K&N part numbers readily available on Ebay and priced right.
Use a quality conventional non-syn 20W50 your first oil change. Must be motorcycle specific and meet JASO-MA ratings. Most run a quality 15W40 in these motors. A quality 20W50 will quiet the typical Rotax engine racket.
And check the drain plug sealing washer. Replace if required.
18mm x 24mm x 1.5mm
12mm x 18mm x 1.5mm
Cooter
Well-known member
You can narrow down the source of the noise by using a long screwdriver with a wooden handle to your ear as a stethoscope.
Wild West Steampunk-ish chain mechanical noise is usually normal. Rythmic low pitched knocking or higher pitched rapping is not. Swinging by your local V-twin shop for them to take a listen might be worth some peace of mind. Hopefully they are even slightly familiar with Buell to know how loud they can be.
Wild West Steampunk-ish chain mechanical noise is usually normal. Rythmic low pitched knocking or higher pitched rapping is not. Swinging by your local V-twin shop for them to take a listen might be worth some peace of mind. Hopefully they are even slightly familiar with Buell to know how loud they can be.
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34nineteen
Well-known member
Here is a demo from Scotty "Cooter" Kilmer.
You may be better off going to some euro trash used bike dealer and see if they have a Rotax powered V-twin around you can listen to.
and its "Wild Wild West"
You may be better off going to some euro trash used bike dealer and see if they have a Rotax powered V-twin around you can listen to.
and its "Wild Wild West"
34nineteen
Well-known member
I'm not a fan, but it looks like he's not doing too shabby on youtube revenue.
https://socialblade.com/youtube/channel/UCuxpxCCevIlF-k-K5YU8XPA
Maybe there is a bit more to this guy.....
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scotty_Kilmer
Still not a fan.
https://socialblade.com/youtube/channel/UCuxpxCCevIlF-k-K5YU8XPA
Maybe there is a bit more to this guy.....
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scotty_Kilmer
Still not a fan.
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Thank you for all the input. I do have one request, in the future if you are going to list specific part numbers for things like K&N oil filter #KN-556. Please list the correct part number #KN-564. Went to change the filter and it's the wrong one. I got it through amazon so I'll send it back and get the correct one this time. Thanks alot Barrett. LOL I'm guessing you got those two part numbers switched or something. n to something completely different. I removed the quiet core out of Barkers slip-on and I gotta say, wow it's way better that way. It's amazing the difference that little tube with a screen on it can make as far as sound goes. And no I don't have to mess with programing the bike or re-tuning the bike. The difference you get when you remove that silencer is't going to affect the performance of the bike.
Barrett
Well-known member
When I take the time on here to post up specific OEM and A/M part numbers, they are correct. I don't "switch" or transpose anything. Perhaps it was packaged or stamped incorrectly? Next time consider HiFlo. Top quality, better pricing than K&N, and they don't mis-number anything.
34nineteen
Well-known member
Hey, since you're doing all of this, will you please look up the correct oil filter for a 1965 Corvair Corsa. Bear in mind that there was an aftermarket filter adapter sold for these to allow a non stock filter to be used, so make sure you get the right one. I would like Purolator and WIX numbers and K&N if possible. Also please submit a competitive list of best prices and URLs so I can easily find the best deal. Dont forget to check to make sure they are not out of stock, as that would be a huge waste of my time.
I also need some help resetting the TPS on my bike. I've read through the entire service manual and there is no mention of Buelltooth or ECMdroid. Will you post up the procedure for resetting the TPS and the best prices for the Buelltooth? I will also take the USB cable if you can get me a version of ECMSpy that works with Windows XP. I kept wondering why my bike was having a hard time running, and realized after sitting for almost 2 years, being completely disassembled and rebuilt a couple of times, that it probably could use a TPS reset.
I've looked all over the internet and can't find anything. Please help! Thanks Barrett, I promise not to leave any bad reviews on your yelp page.
Chop chop!
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34nineteen
Well-known member
I really dont have time for all this reading. Get me just the details and send it back in a condensed, easy-to-read format.
