konarider94
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i have one front georges garage it worked great. a couple thousandths off? thats less than the original tolerance on the location of the bolt hole i guarantee it.
Need help with broken exhaust stud
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stownhooligan
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do I need to take another picture to prove it lol? its not centered by any means.
konarider94
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well you can it can only help at this point, i wonder if you got the wrong jig. i think those are pretty standard though. im just amazed and really want to help, i purchased mine from george and it worked flawlessly.
fwiw .002" is less than the thickness of a piece of paper.
you took the gasket out right, in the pics above the gasket is still in?
fwiw .002" is less than the thickness of a piece of paper.
you took the gasket out right, in the pics above the gasket is still in?
Stevenc150
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Yeah, thinking he got his 1000ths & 10ths mixed up...
Xb12armyguy
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What causes the rear to break, ive broken two fronts due to front mount bracket on d&d kept breaking, luckily I never broke a rear
stownhooligan
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well after doing my own little investigation after tearing it apart. The bolt holding the from muffler mount to the frame had backed itself out and was no longer even on the bike, that started some excess vibration and snapped the stud, which then caused even more vibration and snapped the header right in two. Almost got all the parts together to rebuild. Had my muffler redone by Randy at Hawk Performance, drilled out the stud on a bridgeport without the fucking jig, putting all new OEM parts on the exhaust (gaskets, header, studs, straps, flanges etc.) K&N air filter, new windscreen, new plugs, and in the process of figuring out how to make this ECM stuff happen. Thanks for all your help guys, I do appreciate all the advice. I will get some more pics up if I can.
Had the same exact issue.Pipe was gettin loose so tightening it i broke off the exact same stud.Suburban Harley here in Milwaukee said the only way to fix it was to replace the whole Head.Didn't have a choice at the time 'cause the said they already put in 300 in labor. ...the charged me $900+ to put in a new Head...for a broken stud.900+.When I told my Harley guys that actually work there (higher ups),they were pissed.Many different solutions they would have suggested.Such as welding on a new stud.I mean ...we're talking about a $2000 bike and they wanted close to $1000 to fix a broken stud.Was forced to do it...then the exhaust seemed to have a hole in it.Gonna have to work on that too now.Word to anyone that listens,NEVER TAKE A BIKE TO A DEALER (especially Suburban Harley in Thiensville ,WI.)
Now,any tips on replacing the muffler?
Now,any tips on replacing the muffler?
CliffBurton
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How do you even get to be able to see the upper right stud/nut? i can see the lower left one, i took seat off didnt see it still, do you have to take the right side cowling/airscoop piece off to be able to see it?
11 year thread zombie revival!
I have a couple of broken studs on the rear cylinder head of my '09 Uly. I'm likely going to do a full frame removal for access to the head. I'm not a big fan of drilling as I usually don't have great results with threads staying unmarred.
Plan is to use the old "copper tube down the hole and build it up with weld" trick to see if I can get it out. I plan on using the same trick on the broken exhaust stud in my truck. I also used the broken studs as an excuse to buy one of these:
https://www.theinductor.com/induction-heater-tools-store/mini-ductor-accessories/mini-ductor-venom-hp-mdv-787
Hopefully once I have the weld built up out of the hole I can heat soak it a few more times in an effort to break it free. I'd like to try with the solution most likely to give damage-free success and then work my way down to the last resort of "pull the head and take it to a machine shop.
Input or suggestions on my plan?
I have a couple of broken studs on the rear cylinder head of my '09 Uly. I'm likely going to do a full frame removal for access to the head. I'm not a big fan of drilling as I usually don't have great results with threads staying unmarred.
Plan is to use the old "copper tube down the hole and build it up with weld" trick to see if I can get it out. I plan on using the same trick on the broken exhaust stud in my truck. I also used the broken studs as an excuse to buy one of these:
https://www.theinductor.com/induction-heater-tools-store/mini-ductor-accessories/mini-ductor-venom-hp-mdv-787
Hopefully once I have the weld built up out of the hole I can heat soak it a few more times in an effort to break it free. I'd like to try with the solution most likely to give damage-free success and then work my way down to the last resort of "pull the head and take it to a machine shop.
Input or suggestions on my plan?
bandit8623
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mine broke years ago i did have the shop fix though. GL
I ended up using the welder and they came out just fine. I'd never done it that way before. Much easier / better / cleaner IMO than trying to drill it out. I did hit the hardware store and grabbed some copper tube to "sleeve" the hole before I started welding. This helped to protect the threads in the head.
I found I could not get a nut to directly weld to the stud, but for some reason welding the stud to a washer, and then the nut to the washer, worked just fine.
I'll be using the same method to replace the broken exhaust bolts on my Silverado...one day.
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