Clutch hub

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Tdel

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I'm replacing a clutch hub on a XB12R, I know once the plates are removed the clutch hub comes out. My question is the needle bearing inside the clutch shell? And is the inner race attached to the clutch hub? So if I don't need to change the needle bearing, I won't have to remove the clutch basket and mainshaft sprocket as a assembly? If I am right and the needle bearing is in the clutch shell and I use the old bearing should I use the old race on the new clutch hub? Or a new race
 
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Yes.
The 'inner race' is a sleeve on the transmission input shaft.
They will come out together..
Always keep races/bearings together. Needle bearing are pretty forgiving though.

That is a very weird part for an XB to need.

You didn't give any info like even the year....... but here is a link to the exact step-by-step procedure for that exact job. It has clear pictures, torque specs, and the special tools you will need:eagerness:

https://buellmods.com
 
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2005 buell XB

Cooter said:
Yes.
The 'inner race' is a sleeve on the transmission input shaft.
They will come out together..
Always keep races/bearings together. Needle bearing are pretty forgiving though.

That is a very weird part for an XB to need.

You didn't give any info like even the year....... but here is a link to the exact step-by-step procedure for that exact job. It has clear pictures, torque specs, and the special tools you will need:eagerness:

https://buellmods.com
Click to expand...

It's a 2005 XB12R I'm helping a friend with. Primary lip broke. We had machine shop duplicate the plate from kit being sold. I told him to not start bike until I could check clearance between the new plate and the clutch hub teeth. He started bike and broke a tooth. So I don't want to take off the clutch shell and the main sprocket, I want to just take out the clutch plates, and from there the manual tells me the clutch hub comes out that we need to replace. Now my question is once I remove the clutch hub is the race on the clutch hub? And from the manual, it appears that that's the case. And is the needle bearing inside the clutch shell? If that's the case, I don't wanna take the shell off. I just want to do what needs to be done. I can't determined by the manual. What do you know about this?
 
The link just sends me to a link for service manuals. If that's what you're referring to I have looked through the service manual and it doesn't clear up my question.
 
There's no indication from the manual that when you remove the clutch hub comes out with the transmission input shaft.
 
In fact, the service manual says that when you remove the plates, the clutch hub comes right out and is not pressed in to the shell. So does the race come out with the hub?
 
Confusion reigns supreme.

Front sprocket nut is right hand threads
Clutch hub nut is left hand threads
Do NOT use an impact wrench on sprocket nut or clutch hub nut
Use locking plate and breaker bar for both nuts

After removing the clutch hub nut there is a dedicated directional thrust washer. Remove same.
After these 2 steps remove the entire clutch hub assembly and see schematic. EVERYTHING from part # 25 thru #29 comes out as one complete unit. Make sense????

clutch_pack_exploded_view.jpg
 
I was a little confused while trying to answer the first post. I'm completely lost now.

You wanna remove the inner clutch hub, but NOT the outer clutch shell with the primary chain on it, correct? OK do that. Whats the question?

The inner clutch hub is splined to the transmission input shaft so when the clutch engages, the bike moves. The outer clutch shell has the bearing you're so worried about so when the clutch is dis-engaged, the outer shell can spin with the primary chain (engine running) and the inner hub stopped with the rear wheel.

You should have the part you're replacing in your hand. Look at it. IF it is the inner clutch hub, you won't see any bearing. Just splines.

Use the special tool to compress the spring (don't over compress it!) Take out the clutch plates. Use special tool to hold the hub. Remove the hub nut (LH), pull out the hub. There is a special directional washer under the nut and also watch out for the big washer behind the hub sticking to it.

I could write a more detailed step-by-step, and send pics, with torque values, but someone already did a better job of it:

HERE

Section 6.4 (starting on page 6-9)
 
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Tdel said:
So I don't want to take off the clutch shell and the main sprocket
Click to expand...

If you are looking to replace the shell with sprocket teeth that are driven by the chain, or the teeth that engage the starter, you need to remove the front and rear sprockets together. You will need to remove them simultaneously.

The links to the service manuals are correct, as the service manual spells out the way the job is to be done, regardless of how you feel it should be. I don't like having to remove the primary cover to get to this assembly, but my complaints to Erik Buell have gone unanswered.

This is an actual Sportster motor in a Buell tube frame, but the idea is the same.

 
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