05 xb9r flooding throttle body with gas

[seadoojetski]

So I recently acquired a 05 xb9r fire bolt. Problem is that it’s flooding the throttle body with gas as soon as I turn the key on. Fuel pump turns on , I open the throttle body to see in side and it’s a river of gas pouring in. I changed the plugs , wires but it will not fire up but I’m assuming because it’s flooding. I just drained the oil and there’s gas in there as well. Any ideas what I need to do next? check , replace ? I just bought the buelltooth and there’s no error codes.
Thanks in advance for your help

 

[34nineteen]

Wait ... what?

You see “a river of gas” pouring down the intake and your first thought is to replace the plugs and wires???

This is a joke right?

You obviously realized the “river of gas” wasn’t right, but then...

Seriously, you’re kidding, right?

Well, if that didn’t solve the problem, the bike is screwed. Time to part it out.

 

[seadoojetski]

Wait ... what?

You see “a river of gas” pouring down the intake and your first thought is to replace the plugs and wires???

This is a joke right?

You obviously realized the “river of gas” wasn’t right, but then...

Seriously, you’re kidding, right?

Well, if that didn’t solve the problem, the bike is screwed. Time to part it out.

Ok maybe I’m exaggerating a bit about the “river” but theres definitely gas inside the throttle body when I first turn the key On. I didn’t find out about the gas in the throttle body till after I put new plugs and wires on. So you think I should just dump the bike and not check the fuel Injectors or anything else. The bike has only 9k on the clock

 

[seadoojetski]

Update

Update- as soon as I turn the key on the fuel pump turns on and the injectors immediately start spraying gas before I even hit the starter button. Could this be a setting in the ecm?,tps need to be reset ? Im really hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I have video of the injectors spraying gas into the cylinder... bad injectors maybe? I don’t want to start buying anything for no reason.
Thank you in advance.

 

[seadoojetski]

https://youtu.be/cVm_02OznXA Back injector
https://youtu.be/ig7a3WtXe40 Front injector

 

[34nineteen]

It sure as hell isn’t because of bad plugs and wires. I realize that “river of gas” was an exaggeration, but trying to fix it by installing plugs and wires is next level.

Did you check the tire pressure? Is your registration up to date? Maybe one of those is causing it?

How freaking obvious can this be? If the injectors are leaking fuel... maybe you have LEAKING INJECTORS!

So, yes to fix leaking injectors, a TPS reset should nail it. Of course, in the time you took to create an account on here, post messages and make videos, you could have reset your TPS multiple times.

 

[34nineteen]

Why not try the obvious first? Unplug the injectors. Do they still leak? If yes, then you need your injectors cleaned or replaced. If not the ecm is telling the injectors to pulse continuously or stay open. Or maybe it’s just time for new tires or the LED headlight upgrade? That will fix it.

 

[34nineteen]

https://youtu.be/cVm_02OznXA Back injector
https://youtu.be/ig7a3WtXe40 Front injector

Take the phone out of your pocket before making a video. Works much better that way.

 

[34nineteen]

I changed the plugs , wires

I don’t want to start buying anything for no reason.

It seems like you already started.

 

[seadoojetski]

Update on injectors

Sir: each injector very similar. front white tipped...rear red tipped. slightly different spray pattern between the pair.
at the top of each injector below the harness plug is a captive internal screen filter. if the injector itself is cracked from being ham-fisted by a novice, it will continuously spray fuel out of the body when both key and kill switch set to run. yours however is continuously spraying out the tip orifice. i thought i had seen it all until now.

to narrow down the possible culprits, do the following:
gain access to both injectors and unplug them. now turn on key....kill switch to on...check for continuous fuel spray. if YES...the problem is a failed injector. if NO...then do this: reconnect wiring harness to both injectors. now turn key on...kill switch to on. if problem reappears it is a failed ECM.

this has absolutely no relation to the fuel pump. the pump is NOT related in any way to the ECM and monitoring/signaling. the pump only receives 12V+. the ECM only knows if the pump is receiving 12V+. the ECM does NOT know pump condition or system pressure. only 2010 models.

Jeez talk about getting slammed , I changed plugs and wires before I knew it was flooding the throttle body.
So I unplugged both injectors turned the key,kill switch on and no spray , hooked them back up and sprays like a garden hose. The injectors should not open at all before I hit the starter correct? The injectors are staying wide open when connected to ecm. Sorry for wasteing everyone’s time here just looking for some simple advice on what to check for. Tires are good by the way and reg is up to date.

 

[Cooter]

We can be a little rough around the edges, but mean no harm, thanks for playing :black_eyed:

The injectors should not open at all before I hit the starter correct?
Not THAT much.
The injectors are staying wide open when connected to ecm.
Correct. That is your problem.

The "why" will be the harder part for us to find from the internet without access to your bike in your garage.

Touch an injector. Key on, does it continuously buzz? buzz then stop? Or just click ONCE?
Key on, does the injector get hot?
Key off does the 'river of gas' continue for a little bit (draining fuel pressure from the lines) or stop immediately once the ECM loses power? That will tell you stuck injector or bad signal. Both physically stuck open would be crazy rare.

Without any proper path of diagnostics, I'm trying to figure out if you just happened to see down the TB during start and are exaggerating describing a start cycle and that means you just have fouled plugs or possible ignition issue causing a no start*

OR

If the ECM is sending a full 255 ON signal to both injectors from a compromised output relay, needing a new ECM (also SUPER rare). Is there any physical damage to it? I should have an ECM to send you to check if we get that far.

NOTE: Be CAREFUL during diagnosis. If indeed the injectors are opening fully while the key is on it will fill your cylinders with gas, contaminate your oil/ crankcase, wash the cylinders, and even hydrolock the engine CATASTROPHICALLY if you try to crank it. It can even shoot massive flames of burning fuel out of the TB into your face if your looking down it. I really don't want to tell a burn victim 'I told you so...'.

* my bet is on this

 

[seadoojetski]

We can be a little rough around the edges, but mean no harm, thanks for playing :black_eyed:


The "why" will be the harder part for us to find from the internet without access to your bike in your garage.

Touch an injector. Key on, does it continuously buzz? buzz then stop? Or just click ONCE?
Key on, does the injector get hot?
Key off does the 'river of gas' continue for a little bit (draining fuel pressure from the lines) or stop immediately once the ECM loses power? That will tell you stuck injector or bad signal. Both physically stuck open would be crazy rare.

Without any proper path of diagnostics, I'm trying to figure out if you just happened to see down the TB during start and are exaggerating describing a start cycle and that means you just have fouled plugs or possible ignition issue causing a no start*

OR

If the ECM is sending a full 255 ON signal to both injectors from a compromised output relay, needing a new ECM (also SUPER rare). Is there any physical damage to it? I should have an ECM to send you to check if we get that far.

NOTE: Be CAREFUL during diagnosis. If indeed the injectors are opening fully while the key is on it will fill your cylinders with gas, contaminate your oil/ crankcase, wash the cylinders, and even hydrolock the engine CATASTROPHICALLY if you try to crank it. It can even shoot massive flames of burning fuel out of the TB into your face if your looking down it. I really don't want to tell a burn victim 'I told you so...'.

* my bet is on this

Thank you very much for your reply , so I’ve made some progress. Digging much more into the bike I found a Remus powerizer Hooked up into the injectors. I eliminated it and now when I turn the bike on , fuel pump runs but no fuel coming out if the injectors. The oil did get contaminated with gas so I drained it and I’m going to to put fresh oil in it , crank the motor a bunch of times , drain it again to make sure no gas is in it and do another fresh oil change then attempt to start it. Does that sound like the best approach ?
Thank you again for helping me out.

 

[34nineteen]

Thank you very much for your reply , so I’ve made some progress. Digging much more into the bike I found a Remus powerizer Hooked up into the injectors. I eliminated it and now when I turn the bike on , fuel pump runs but no fuel coming out if the injectors. The oil did get contaminated with gas so I drained it and I’m going to to put fresh oil in it , crank the motor a bunch of times , drain it again to make sure no gas is in it and do another fresh oil change then attempt to start it. Does that sound like the best approach ?
Thank you again for helping me out.

Yes, definitely replace the oil. You probably dont need to change it again so quickly, but I would probably aim for around 500 miles. But, if you feel more comfortable doing it sooner, youre not going to hurt anything. I would just run inexpensive oil for the flushing process.

I had a SV650 that had a leaky petcock and basically filled up my entire crankcase with gasoline. I did 2 oil changes as described above and it was fine.

 

[34nineteen]

Thank you very much for your reply , so I’ve made some progress. Digging much more into the bike I found a Remus powerizer Hooked up into the injectors. I eliminated it and now when I turn the bike on , fuel pump runs but no fuel coming out if the injectors. The oil did get contaminated with gas so I drained it and I’m going to to put fresh oil in it , crank the motor a bunch of times , drain it again to make sure no gas is in it and do another fresh oil change then attempt to start it. Does that sound like the best approach ?
Thank you again for helping me out.

Simply put, the ECM will pulse the injectors, when it gets a signal from the cam position sensor. So if the motor isnt running, the cams arent turning, and the signal isnt being provided. The cam sensor also triggers the coil to fire, and Cooter can help you out with any issues you may have there. :love_heart:

I'm glad you found the issue, those piggyback controllers cause more hassle than they're worth, but back in 2005, the tuning tech wasnt what it is today. I had a Dobeck controller on my 06 Ss and it would do all sorts of weird things.

 

[seadoojetski]

Simply put, the ECM will pulse the injectors, when it gets a signal from the cam position sensor. So if the motor isnt running, the cams arent turning, and the signal isnt being provided. The cam sensor also triggers the coil to fire, and Cooter can help you out with any issues you may have there. :love_heart:

I'm glad you found the issue, those piggyback controllers cause more hassle than they're worth, but back in 2005, the tuning tech wasnt what it is today. I had a Dobeck controller on my 06 Ss and it would do all sorts of weird things.

Thank you guys. Big thanks to cooter. Ill let you guys know how it works out after I do the oil changes and attempt the starting process

 

[34nineteen]

One thing, before you do the oil changes....

Normally, we harp on people to RTFM. However, the torque spec for the drain plug on the swingarm is incorrect in the manual. There are many ideas of what it should be, but I just snug it down so the oring makes a positive seal and the plug won't vibrate out. Do whatever you feel comfortable with, but dont follow the book spec on this.


Be careful with thanking CoOter too much, he'll start camping outside your house, drink all your beer, and never leave.

 

[seadoojetski]

One thing, before you do the oil changes....

Normally, we harp on people to RTFM. However, the torque spec for the drain plug on the swingarm is incorrect in the manual. There are many ideas of what it should be, but I just snug it down so the oring makes a positive seal and the plug won't vibrate out. Do whatever you feel comfortable with, but dont follow the book spec on this.


Be careful with thanking CoOter too much, he'll start camping outside your house, drink all your beer, and never leave.

Cooter is more than welcomed to drink all my beer , jeez all you guys can drink all my beer .. helped me out tremendously! Cant thank you guys enough.

 

[Cooter]

Careful what you wish for!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iR4f84HKaY

34:19 knows what he's talking about, his dad used to own a junkyard. Check the o-ring seat for debris or sharp edges, a little oil on a NEW o-ring, a little sealant on the threads (yes, its not pipe thread) and snug +1/2 turn is fine. The spec in the manual is written as ft/lbs when it should be in/lbs. It is a steel o-ring plug going into an aluminum swingarm. IMHO, anyone who thinks 30 FT/lbs is OK for that plug should either own a jiffy lube chain or have their wrenches taken away regardless of what the manual says. There is 'tolerance' and there is 'ludicrous'. LOL.

Here 34:19 and his dad 33:18

 

[seadoojetski]

Careful what you wish for!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2iR4f84HKaY

34:19 knows what he's talking about, his dad used to own a junkyard. Check the o-ring seat for debris or sharp edges, a little oil on a NEW o-ring, a little sealant on the threads (yes, its not pipe thread) and snug +1/2 turn is fine. The spec in the manual is written as ft/lbs when it should be in/lbs. It is a steel o-ring plug going into an aluminum swingarm. IMHO, anyone who thinks 30 FT/lbs is OK for that plug should either own a jiffy lube chain or have their wrenches taken away regardless of what the manual says. There is 'tolerance' and there is 'ludicrous'. LOL.

Here 34:19 and his dad 33:18
View attachment 15444

Haha. Had me cracking up with that video and 34:19’s son and dad pic.
Well good news boys. Bike is back in action!!! Runs perfect ! No hesitation, idles excellent. I like to take this Remus powerizer and ream it up there a$$! Start up in 1 sec. just touch the starter button and it’s fired up...
Thank you again guys for all your help ...

 

[seadoojetski]

Haha. Had me cracking up with that video and 34:19’s son and dad pic.
Well good news boys. Bike is back in action!!! Runs perfect ! No hesitation, idles excellent. I like to take this Remus powerizer and ream it up there a$$! Start up in 1 sec. just touch the starter button and it’s fired up...
Thank you again guys for all your help ...

Last couple of questions if you don’t mind, is the primary oil the same as the oil in the swing arm and do you know how much it takes ? 05 xb9r firebolt. Getting mixed information on it.
And do you know what this is? Picture attached