Not sure if anybody has done this or wrote it up, couldn't find anything, so here goes, if any of the other 4 people who own STT's in the world want to give this a shot.
Putting pegs and number plates on my STT
Sooo... I gave up on trying to get a whole Uly passenger peg setup, the cost plus availability made this way too difficult. I decided I had to go a different route.
I ended up getting a set of lightning pegs and brackets on ebay for about $40 and decided I was going to run them instead of the number plates, but after mocking up the number plates in black...I kinda wanted them both on the bike. My girl sometimes goes out with me, and the pegs help insure domestic tranquility.
The main problem I found when trying to put both on is that the curve of the brackets pushed out too far on the plates making the plates unmountable, without flexing them to the point they would snap.
I futzed around with a couple ideas, making a bracket that would offset the peg bracket, but the bottom of the seat would get in the way and cause more problems then it was worth. In the end I decided on what ended up being pretty a easy and straight forward solution, that has seemed to work out well...If you drop the brackets about 4 inches they clear the number plates and still clear outside and above the swingarm/.
So if interested, Here are the parts I ended up using. (most are available at Lowes)
Its kind of a preference how many nuts and washers you use depending on the size of the couplers and spacers you can get so i will give a number range for what I think might work, but you will get the idea
4 3/8 by 16 course hex head bolts in the 5 to 6 inch range-------the shorter you can use the better because of the stress on the body mounting points for the brackets..but with all the other stuff on the bolt it becomes a pita to turn if the bolt is too short...also if you can get round head bolts in that size, so much the better...I will probably replace mine at some point.
4 3/8x1/2x3/4 or 3/8x1/2x1/2 spacers-----used to fill the gap in the bottom of the peg brackets caused by not having round head bolts
4-8 threaded rod coupler or rod joiner (same thing)----not used for joining, used as a sheath on the exposed threads of the bolt and to provide extra strength and rigidity to the whole assembly, so get the biggest you can find or a bunch of little ones might work...I found some 1 1/2 inch ones that seemed to work for me.
8 3/8 lock washers
8 3/8 nuts
8 3/8 flat washers
4 3/8 composite or nylon washers- fit inside the recess of the inside of the number plates
Procedure
Grab a bolt put one of the spacers on it and push it through one of the bolt holes in the bottom of the passenger bracket.
put a lock washer on top of that and a regular washer and a 3/8 nut...do not tighten this all the way down right now...you want it loose until the assembly is tight in the frame...then we can tighten all this down.
Next, put a the coupler on that followed by a nut a split washer, a flat washer and a nylon washer...
It looks something like this:
Put that through the hole in the bottom of the number plate and tighten into frame of bike.
Pic without the plate for reference
Then tighten the bottom nut down to snug the bracket on the spacer and the bolt, and the top nut up to tighten the number plate against the body rail...insert gen-u-wine Buell Torx head bolt to back of plate and you are done..
Plasti dipped test number plates on this pic...
They serve the purpose and are strong ...I wouldn't do any tricking on them or stand and bounce on them and try to snap them off on purpose, but they are "in there"..especially to rest your feet on while riding.
*legal disclaimer*...don't be a *&*#$, use your head when putting this together...I am not a N.A.S.A structural engineer, but I'm sure I will hear from about 24 of them, that this mod has rendered my bike into a death trap.
I'm providing the basic procedure I used, use it if it helps.
Thanks
Putting pegs and number plates on my STT
Sooo... I gave up on trying to get a whole Uly passenger peg setup, the cost plus availability made this way too difficult. I decided I had to go a different route.
I ended up getting a set of lightning pegs and brackets on ebay for about $40 and decided I was going to run them instead of the number plates, but after mocking up the number plates in black...I kinda wanted them both on the bike. My girl sometimes goes out with me, and the pegs help insure domestic tranquility.
The main problem I found when trying to put both on is that the curve of the brackets pushed out too far on the plates making the plates unmountable, without flexing them to the point they would snap.
I futzed around with a couple ideas, making a bracket that would offset the peg bracket, but the bottom of the seat would get in the way and cause more problems then it was worth. In the end I decided on what ended up being pretty a easy and straight forward solution, that has seemed to work out well...If you drop the brackets about 4 inches they clear the number plates and still clear outside and above the swingarm/.
So if interested, Here are the parts I ended up using. (most are available at Lowes)
Its kind of a preference how many nuts and washers you use depending on the size of the couplers and spacers you can get so i will give a number range for what I think might work, but you will get the idea
4 3/8 by 16 course hex head bolts in the 5 to 6 inch range-------the shorter you can use the better because of the stress on the body mounting points for the brackets..but with all the other stuff on the bolt it becomes a pita to turn if the bolt is too short...also if you can get round head bolts in that size, so much the better...I will probably replace mine at some point.
4 3/8x1/2x3/4 or 3/8x1/2x1/2 spacers-----used to fill the gap in the bottom of the peg brackets caused by not having round head bolts
4-8 threaded rod coupler or rod joiner (same thing)----not used for joining, used as a sheath on the exposed threads of the bolt and to provide extra strength and rigidity to the whole assembly, so get the biggest you can find or a bunch of little ones might work...I found some 1 1/2 inch ones that seemed to work for me.
8 3/8 lock washers
8 3/8 nuts
8 3/8 flat washers
4 3/8 composite or nylon washers- fit inside the recess of the inside of the number plates
Procedure
Grab a bolt put one of the spacers on it and push it through one of the bolt holes in the bottom of the passenger bracket.
put a lock washer on top of that and a regular washer and a 3/8 nut...do not tighten this all the way down right now...you want it loose until the assembly is tight in the frame...then we can tighten all this down.
Next, put a the coupler on that followed by a nut a split washer, a flat washer and a nylon washer...
It looks something like this:
Put that through the hole in the bottom of the number plate and tighten into frame of bike.
Pic without the plate for reference
Then tighten the bottom nut down to snug the bracket on the spacer and the bolt, and the top nut up to tighten the number plate against the body rail...insert gen-u-wine Buell Torx head bolt to back of plate and you are done..
Plasti dipped test number plates on this pic...
They serve the purpose and are strong ...I wouldn't do any tricking on them or stand and bounce on them and try to snap them off on purpose, but they are "in there"..especially to rest your feet on while riding.
*legal disclaimer*...don't be a *&*#$, use your head when putting this together...I am not a N.A.S.A structural engineer, but I'm sure I will hear from about 24 of them, that this mod has rendered my bike into a death trap.
I'm providing the basic procedure I used, use it if it helps.
Thanks
