2009 - 1125R Front Brake Issue's

[FXSTB99]

I just bought a 2009 Buell 1125R. I'm not new to sport bikes or super bikes, my issue is that after taking a few test rides over a week period to develop an understanding of the bikes personality. My son came by with his CBR 600, and we went for a ride, I always take the lead because we have plenty of deer. We were coming up to a school zone so, we had decelerated to approximately 30 mph, using the engine and rear brake, I just touched the front brake and the front tire locked up ... I held it up for about ten feet as was the distance of the skid mark, and of course I hit the pavement harder than I have ever been hit in 11 years of football, and believe me, as a center you get hit. I really need some good tech advice, so this never happens again. The front brake stayed clamped down. As a 90% Wounded Warrior ... I won't be able to take to many more hits like that, after 25 years of military service. I seen some write ups on here during a search, but once I signed up, I could no longer locate the thread. Anyone who has experienced this, and found a solution .. Please advise, thank you.

Very Respectfully,
George

 

[user_deleted]

george; i never owned or worked on an 1125 front brake system but they mirror the XB brake systems which i have serviced dozens of. a super touchy lever combined with pads that dramatically clamp the front rotor and won't release can only be 1 or more of the following 3 things:
1-master cylinder needing flushed...bleed hole cleaned....and/or rebuilt
2-caliper pistons stuck in their respective bores from either warping or corrosion
3-faulty collapsed brake hose/hoses.
as with any brake system if you're not somewhat experienced with them or feel a certain amount of trepidation diving into one then have a pro go over it for you. a quick trouble-shooting test is to get the front wheel up in the air...spin the wheel...apply full firm front lever pressure and release. now wiggle the wheel lightly at 12 and 6 o'clock position and try to spin wheel. bound up? it's one or more of the 3 above i listed. corroded interior portions of a master cylinder creates not only locking wheel symptom but also a "wooden" lever feel.

 

[50dro]

What lever is on the bike?

 

[user_deleted]

george: what sandro said above. my advice and trouble-shooting based on 100% stock components. modded components? then can be a myriad of assorted problems associated with same.

 

[d_adams]

What lever is on the bike?

^ This.

The stock setup on an 1125 should NEVER do this.

 

[heagachongoose]

^^^ +1 to all. Sorry to hear about the incident. Could be a number of things. Incorrect levers have been known to do exactly this. Is the brake system all stock? Master cylinder etc? Fluid level ok? How is the piston action in the MC? What part of the system actually locked up? How do your brake pads look? Running your pads out can meld the pads to your rotor under continued use. I doubt that is the case but it is a possibility.

Just a few things that come to mind.

 

[Cooter]

I would have to add a vote to brake lever as well. Remove it and see if it is compressing the M/C piston while in the resting position. It shouldn't be.

A seriously corroded M/C or Caliper could do it, and other issues like debris in the system, but you're talking about holding 1000psi+ of fluid pressure… The lever is way more likely.

 

[FXSTB99]

I appreciate the hit list of items to checkout, and all the other comments or questions.

The bike, ie. Levers is completely stock, no mods, no one in the engine or aftermarket parts.

I started dirt track racing at 10, in the 70's we didn't have heleocopter parents. My Dad owned a junk yard that I started working in since I was 8, and I do defer to the pro`s when it comes to braking, (my talent is finding hp / more importantly tourque). I was a 3rd level shop mechanic, which means we did our own machine work. That is how I fit a 200mm tire on a stock softail swing arm when the Harley shops said it couldn't be done, and I lost none of the bike curve lines.

I always buy a service manual each bike or car / truck I own. I do not have one for this model, but I will be looking for one asap. I read about problems concerning over filled master cylinders, and or mixed dot 4 & 5. The previous owner said he had it serviced before putting up for the winter.

I noticed some type of; what I will call contamination .. slight seperation or like faint floaties, also if anyone can tell me in the master cylinder window there are three spurs one on top, one each bottom left and right. It looks like their is a bubble in front of the top spur in the master cylinder window, actully I cannot tell if it is a bubble of air or a naturally occuring static type aspect.

I normally do all my own services, we have 8 bikes in the family; however I take them in for the big one; 10k, 20k, 30k and so on ... the big ones like wheel bearing to wheel bearing. I am once again greatful for your replies. Thanks all

Very Respectfully,
George

 

[FXSTB99]

Just to expand on this a bit, I did already put the bike on the lift. I spun the front tire, depressing the front brake lever at aproximately 1mm causes the bike (front wheel), to decelerate rappedly, at 2mm the front tire locks. In the HUD, on starting states adjust brake lever to 4 setting. I did that, and cannot tell a difference. Thanks again for any input.

V/R,
George

 

[gggGary]

Ancient thread but did this end up being a failed wheel bearing caused the problem?

 

[Cooter]

No. On post #9 the OP said "I did already put the bike on the lift. I spun the front tire".