2010 XB12Scg high idle when in gear.

[Ggeezer]

Hi all, first time using the forum and I'm looking for a little help.

I have a 2010 XB12Scg with 26000 miles on it in stock configuration other than a K&N replacement filter. and a Buelltooth Baro kit. I recently installed the Baro kit and disabled closed loop where I have locked the AFV to no less than 100 more than 105 as per the Buelltooth unless the Baro sensor says otherwise. This is all setup as per the Buelltooth web site on installing the Baro kit and disabling closed loop and from what I am led to believe is pretty common practice for a Buell. After making these changes the bike runs perfectly with none of the decel pop, overheating or low speed drive-ability issues that it had prior to me doing the mods. The bike now runs clean with a even idle and pulls smooth and strong all the way to the red line. Downshift throttle blips are crisp and the bike is much easier to ride over all with one small issue.

When the bike is at operating temperature and idling in neutral the idle is right around 1100 rpm which is where it should be according to the manual but when you pull the clutch in and put the bike into gear the idle jumps up to over 1600 rpm. I have checked for manifold leaks as best I can using the prescribed test from the shop manual (there are non as far as I can tell), ECMDroid does not report any error codes and I have reset the TPS several times. I have tried disabling the Baro sensor and going back to my stock tune but other than making the bike run like crap does not change the fast idle in gear issue. I have tried trolling around the web for any info on this issue and found nothing.

So here I am with an almost perfectly running bike and my hat in hand. Any help you guys could provide would be much appreciated.

Gord

 

[Cooter]

Does the clutch switch work? Test it for continuity.

 

[user_deleted]

Does the clutch switch work? Test it for continuity.

huh?

on all 2010 model XB's the clutch interlock switch...neutral safety switch....IAC....and ECM all tied in together to control idle speed. controls speed in neutral clutch engaged....neutral clutch disengaged....in gear clutch disengaged.

 

[Ggeezer]

That’s good to know but is there a logical step by step process to check each of these components out?

 

[Ggeezer]

One more development, now when I shut the bike off the fuel pump primes repeatedly even with the key off and out of the ignition. It makes the same priming sound as when you first turn the key on to start the bike but it does it when the pier to the bike is cut by the ignition switch and keeps doing it every 30 seconds or so. It does stop eventually but it might cycle through 8 or 9 times before it stops. Or I can just pull the fuel pump fuse at that kills it too but that does look very cool pulling up to the coffee shop, lifting the seat and yanking out a fuse to get it to stop.

Related? Not sure but other than these two issues the bike still runs great.

 

[Cooter]

Yep, lots of things control the idle speed circuit, including the tune you are running and thats next to check because it is what you changed last.

But first...because of this:

when you pull the clutch in and put the bike into gear the idle jumps up to over 1600 rpm.

You should do this:

Cooter: "Does the clutch switch work? Test it for continuity."

Proper diagnosis means to check one thing at a time in order. Not making wild stabs at everything in the circuit all at once. That would be frustrating, time consuming, and more expensive.

 

[Cooter]

The fuel pump will cycle even with the key off on the later bikes, that's normal.

 

[pdksh]

My 1125cr does that, kinda freaked me out when I first got the bike.

 

[njloco]

Does it do it when using the kill switch to shut down the engine ?

 

[Ggeezer]

Yes

 

[Ggeezer]

Cooter, I will check on the clutch switch today after work and report my findings back here.

 

[34nineteen]

My 1125cr does that, kinda freaked me out when I first got the bike.

I hadn't noticed that on mine. I will have to listen for it.

 

[Ggeezer]

I hadn't noticed that on mine. I will have to listen for it.

Mine didn't do it when I bought the bike. It only started in the last day. It is obvious, you shouldn't have to listen for it other than to stand next to the bike for 30 or 40 seconds.

 

[osvaldo]

Hi Ggeezer,

my half cent, and probably superfluous.
Keep also in mind that I am talking about my experience with a MY 2009, but it should be not different.
As all have already said, Idling mode is recognized by ECM also trough clutch status so it is quite clever, also cause it's easy, to check the switch that report that before all.
Idling mode, means the Bike is working with various maps and settings different for the ones used in running condition and that wrong change probably what is happening to your bike when you put her in gear.
To be honest, as far as I know, at least some of the trouble of the switch should be shown by CEL, but anyway I completely agree to check it.
The same run for neutral switch.
Just, saying 'check for continuity', it seems to me a bit short explication if you are not aware of the system. (May be you are...I don't know)
What I would do (have done) is to disconnect the connector just below the lever, have a multimeter, set it on DC Voltage, Ignition switch ON, On/Off button ON; at this point check voltage between the two pins of MALE connector. It must be close to 5 V. If you switch OFF Ignition and/or button voltage must get back to 0. Like that you are sure of voltage from ECM and the soundness of the cable supplying the related ground to the frame. Please do not check this two pins with multimeter set to Ohm; like this you are supplying an external voltage to the ECM and I'm not fully sure it is not going to hurt something.
Now on FEMALE connector (switch side), multimeter set on Ohm, you must find OPEN circuit with the lever released and CLOSED circuit when you pull (almost full) the lever.
Check for a sharp and net change and repeat it a few time to be sure this mood is steady.
I had a 'mood' problem in that switch that was very dirty and I solved it with the help of a contact cleaner without having to change it. If you like mechanical clocks you can even open it.

About fuel pump cycling without ignition key it seems to me also odd, but many guys said MY 2010 must like this. I have not got any evidences saying not...

If you like to put in your hand, few suggestion from a learner (me):

If you did not get them yet, have both your service manual and the Electric service manual: they are not the most 'user friendly' I saw in my live but they can get you close. Some guys can tell you how and where to get them.

Data Logs reading are a powerful troubleshooting tool, if can get some from your bike when giving trouble, get it.
If you need help to read them, you will find here some guys willing to give it to you.

Let us know.

Best regards, Osvaldo

P.S. I am very happy that, aside this oddity, your bike run, now, as you like, same what I'm looking for

 

[Ggeezer]

Thanks Osvaldo, I really appreciate the in-depth instructions. While I I have worked on cars and bikes most of my life this is the first bike I have owned with such a complex engine management system and EFI. This will be a fairly steep leaning curve for me but I think I'm up for the challenge.

Just riding this bike gives me all the motivation I need. It is so fun!

 

[Ggeezer]

Ok, I finally found some spare time to do a bit of testing. I tested both the clutch switch and the neutral switch and both are working as they should. With the key on I get 12 volts at the harness on both and both switches test okay for continuity as well.

 

[osvaldo]

Ok, I finally found some spare time to do a bit of testing. I tested both the clutch switch and the neutral switch and both are working as they should. With the key on I get 12 volts at the harness on both and both switches test okay for continuity as well.

Hi Ggeezer,

maybe I’m wrong, but I think those voltages should be close to 5 volts. (at least so are on MY 2009)
My be some guys that know for sure about that can jump in.
Have you on hand the Electrical service manual for your bike?
To be honest I really don't even know if it has been ever published, but as far as for MY 2008 can be easily found on the net.
I did not find the one for MY2009.
Just in case everything is OK on those switches, as I told I think that if you can read the logs you can take with ECMDroid, it can be helpful.
Even better if can see also how your ECM is actually set, with tunerpro or something equivalent.
I know that 'mood' raised up without changing anything on ECM, but in any case it's not bad to have a look.

 

[Cooter]

Check the clutch switch for continuity (OHM scale on your meter) and operation (operate lever).

What are those 2 readings?

If that switch is OK, it is the new tune you put in. Talk to the source of the tune IF that switch is OK.

No need to complicate things.

 

[Ggeezer]

That did it!

Ok, it was the switch. After I checked to see if it had power to the plug and that the switch actually worked I saw that the contacts on the plug were slightly corroded. I sprayed contact cleaner on them and applied a little di-electric grease to prevent further corrosion and she now idles at around 1000 RPM with the transmission in gear and the clutch disengaged.

Thanks to all who offered to help point me in the right direction. I don't think I would have thought to start at the clutch switch (something I didn't even know existed before it was suggested here) and I would probably have started tearing the engine down of something equally as stupid.

Anyway, thanks. I am indebted to you all.

PS Oswaldo, I have found and ordered a copy of the 2010 Buell XB12s Electrical Service Manual. I think it will be a good investment for me.

 

[Ggeezer]

Sorry, Osvaldo