600 mile service, can I do this myself?

[JohnnyS999]

Not that I'm a cheapo, but I don't roll over for what I consider high service costs either. I learned a long time ago in order to own a Ducati and keep the costs of maintenance down, you should learn how to do your own services. With a Duc the issue is doing your valve clearances and shim changes as needed. I'm not a gearhead and it took me a long time to learn the process, first on the Desmoquattro, then the Testastretta and I was about to get into my 2v Multistrada but I sold it. The Testastretta is much easier to do because of access to the valve train area. It will take me the better part of two days to do the service, it means really stripping the bike down to nothing in order to expose the valve covers. I've saved a lot and have derived alot of satisfaction at the same time.

I don't have a clue what the Buell major service requires or how much it is on the average. For now I'm due for my first service and the dealer said early on to bring it in at 1K miles. I looked at what is done during this and its basically checking the bike out at multiple points and changing the oil and filter. No tools are required and by the looks of it I can do it in a couple hours. The bike is running good so I don't think the carbs need attending to so I'm thinking of doing it myself and saving $325 less the cost for oil and filter.

Will this jeopardize my warranty and is there something more to this first service I should know about before doing it myself? I do plan on taking the bike in for the major service interval, I'm not in the mood to start the learning process over again with this bike.

 

[CJT]

If recall correctly the first service is the ONE that is required be completed by the dealer to comply with the warranty. That is the only time I had the dealer do anything to my bike. On a different note, what Buell do you have that is still under warranty that has carburators?!?!? [confused] After the first service get yourself a factory service and parts manual and do the work yourself and save a bundle!

 

[theoctopus]

Given that you've posted this in the 1125CR forum, I'm going to bet you're riding an 1125CR, and therefore do not have carburetors to concern yourself with.

No service can be required by a dealer under federal law. Harley can in no way deny you warranty service on the basis of having a non-HD individual (and that includes yourself) take care of your service.

That being said, sometimes it's a sticky situation. I've heard of dealers doing everything they can to drop warranty for an individual. This includes finding even the smallest error in the service method or aftermarket work on a bike. It's up to you to assess the risk for yourself.

 

[JohnnyS999]

Carbs? I just meant that as an old school expression, because we use the term synching the throttle bodies with carb sticks interchangeble with synching the carbs. I may be new to Buell, but I know they are FI, lol. On the Ducati,if there were any throttle body issues before or after doing the valve clearances, I would simply take the bike to the trusted Ducati facility and they would do the corrections for basically one hour shop time.

Thanks for the advice and if it is required then so be it. But I just read what the Octopus had to say about it so I think I'm going to look around and see what else I can find about this issue. I don't like to spend $325 for what I read as essentially an oil and filter change.

 

[JohnnyS999]

I took the bike in for its first service and to my surprise the cost came out to $139, not $325 as I was first quoted. The invoice indicated 6.2K service using Syn3 fluids. Now I know the service wasn't for the scheduled 6.2K service, I didn't want to ask any questions. The service writer was having problems downloading the correct model program on his computer, it was clear to me they didn't have much experience with the 1125, since they couldn't provide answers to some basic questions about the bike. Nice enough people, so thats a start. I'll see them at the real 6.2K service since I'm undecided about learning how to do my own valve clearances and other requirements like I did for the Ducati. It took me a look time and much mental effort to learn to do my own service with the Duc. I think I would rather bite the bullet on the Buell unless I find the process is not as time consuming or require a bunch of unique tools. The Ducati valve clearance and shim changing experience can be a full two day effort. Its really worth it if you want to save a lot of cake or if you put on a lot of miles because every 6K to 7.5K its time for service. Another reason the process took me so long is the fact I learned on several different motor types I owned. A Desmoquattro, Testastretta and Desmodue. 4V and 2V configurations, the Desmoquattro being the most difficult without question due to it being a PITA to access the valve covers. At that point it didn't mean your work was over, it just began because the valve covers or access points were tiny and their location was impossible. I just helped a friend do his 748R and it brought back memories I wish to forget. Not so with the Testastretta, a joy to work on because the valve components were underneath a hugh by comparison valve cover. Everything was right in front of you and exposed to the world. Different designer with a different mindset. [up](Pierre Terblanc).

So, I'll see how it goes after I get my hands on a service manual and see how its laid out.

 

[IRULE]

Wonder if you all know the answer! My CR has only 330 miles, I notice my coolant level is extremely low, according to the Buell Owner's manual, I "NEED" to purchase "Genunie HD Enxtended Life Antifreeze and Coolant - Part#99822-02" or else it might damage the engine. Do I have too? I have some high quality Honda 50/50 coolant ready to use at home - can I use it? The buell comes with yellow coolant and the honda is green. Can I please get some input on this? Thanks.

 

[afinley]

I wouldnt mix coolant. I know with my VW there was a problem of it running a unique coolant that when mixed with regular 50/50 turned to pudding. Is that gonna happen to your bike? Don't know, but I do know coolant doesn't cost enough to ever have to find out.

 

[IRULE]

You are right about VW. I am just tired of spending more money at the HD dealer. That's all. Thanks.

 

[07Bolt]

one is for aluminum; the other for cast; u should use the harley stuff,,,

 

[nativeXb12Rbuell]

dont mix or use the wrong TYPE of coolant. the hd extended life coolant for buells is silicate-free, phosphate-free, nitrate-free and borate-free. make sure you use a coolant that is free of those additives....and same spec (sae/astm etc.) recomended by the vehicle manufacture..... and please DONT USE regular tap water to dillute any coolant., USE distilled or deionized water to eliminate cooling system contamination.

You can't go by color because it varies, every company's antifreezes have different combinations of additives and inhibitors. those additives and inhibitors have different effects on different metals and the solder or welds of the cooling systems and engine water passages & seals. some can cause corrosion if used in the wrong type of system. read the spec for the coolant and use that same or equal sae/astm spec coolant. Traditional antifreeze formulas for domestic applications with aluminum radiators, cylinder heads or blocks contain a high level of silicates (which is not really needed in cast iron engines with copper/brass radiators). Silicates form a protective barrier on aluminum that protects the metal. Silicates form a protective barrier on aluminum that protects the metal. additives in European and Asian OEM antifreezes, however, contain less silicates and rely mostly on borates to inhibit corrosion. most all European antifreezes also contains no phosphates because hard water can react with phosphates to form calcium and magnesium sediments. The Asians use phosphates but no borates and low or no silicates because they say borates may actually add to the aluminum corrosion problem if the coolant is neglected.
extended life coolants use an entirely different corrosion inhibiting chemistry that uses carboxylate organic acids instead of the silicates, phosphates or borates(this what is in most newer GM & some Ford & Chrysler & some other manufactures cars)and if you use the wrong coolant type in these vehicles with extended life organic acids it will cause the solders & metal to corrode at a much faster rate and on cars the first to corrode is the heater core and that leaks into your passager floor board. and the so called universal coolant are not truely all universal and they work okay, but really should only be used as a temporary fix, or if you dont really care about your vehicle. please remember your oil & coolant are your BEST & cheapest insurance for your vehicles engine. the better it is, engine fluids, the better it will run and the longer it will last.