'98 S3T Help

[bueller412]

Just picked up a nice black/black '98 S3T w/ low miles (have a 05" XB12Scg also) but need some help w/ the following;
- bar risers for the asymmetrical handlebar mount. Looking for about a 1-1.25" rise and 1.5" pullback. Do the stock cables have enough length?
- has the stock exhaust which I want to keep of course but would like an aftermarket can. Anybody know where I can get one?
- Front brake has a shutter when first applied. I assume I need a new rotor. Any idea where I can find one?
As always the Forum's help is greatly appreciated!

 

[Cooter]

The super cheap riser cheat is to use a XBS or sportster upper clamp, flipped over as a spacer. Pull back is something you get with bars so... might as well just get taller bars while youre at it. Not sure if the cables fit, but you aren't going far. Is there some slack now? Are they super tight? Got 5 minutes?? Take the throttle housing/sleeve off the bars, put it back together off the bars and and hold it where it's gonna be...

Theres a bunch of used exhaust on e-bay. Pick your poison. Want a new one? Shop those brands. D&D sounds good.

Not sure what you're trying to describe, but a warped rotor is rare and will shudder at any brake pressure. Are the floating rivets filthy, rusty? Has it sat for a decade? Clean it all up. Best if you remove it. What you may be feeling is just brake pad material thats not evenly distributed on the rotor. Clean both sides of the rotor VERY WELL with brakleen and scotchbrite, then bed the pads correctly or even get new ones. EBC HH pads are good on Buells on the street.

 

[bueller412]

Thanks Cooter

Have been looking for an exhaust can to fit the '98 S3T for weeks w/ no luck. Only thing I can find is the ForceWinder pipe which looks like a plumbing project gone bad. I want to keep the pipes and just replace the muffler.
Regarding the rotor, everything is in good shape, clean, etc. but the bike definitely has a quick shudder when the brake is initially applied. Will take a good look and use the Brakekleen, etc.
Also the stock CV carb "pops" occasionally at lower rpm. Any luck w/ the Mikuni HSR 42? I had one on a H-D years ago and it worked very well.

 

[Cooter]

You're welcome, here's a link to a Vance and Hines:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3851569152...djB2/8ztHLf5bn2hIFjd8lukM=|tkp:Bk9SR7qa6_yBYQ

and a D&D:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3634552935...f/cbZObQh6kwvK/i3+To9udzY=|tkp:Bk9SR7qa6_yBYQ

and ya is sounds like a carb disassembly and cleaning would be in order. The 42 swap works well on these, but would need a tune of course. I rode a M-2 with that carb and a 6-speed for many many miles and loved it.

 

[34nineteen]

Have been looking for an exhaust can to fit the '98 S3T for weeks w/ no luck. Only thing I can find is the ForceWinder pipe which looks like a plumbing project gone bad. I want to keep the pipes and just replace the muffler.

Are you looking for an "exhaust can" or complete system?

The Forcewinder is a complete system and doesnt have a muffler. Its an open pipe. There is no "can".

If you are looking for a muffler to attach to the existing header. Dean Adams makes one for 2-1/2" headers. If you still have the stock muffler, you could send it to Kevin at Drummer and he can likely modify it for you (that what I did, and its f*cking awesome) or make you one of his pipes from scratch. St Paul and others sell the Supertrapp, which people tend to like.

I think the V&H and D&D are long gone and out of production.

This is my Drummer at Kevins shop:


I was considering changing out my CV on my S1 for an HSR42, but my CV runs perfectly smooth on my motor. If you're changing it out to get rid of a pop, sounds like an expensive way to do it. I would look into finding out why the CV is popping first. If its worn out or damaged, thats one thing. If you just have leaking intake seals, thats another. But the HSR is going to make the bike respond quicker to the throttle and maybe make more power up on top (if the engine can process the extra fuel).

What rotor is on the bike? Some of the earlier ones had rattling problems with the rotor which could cause weirdness in braking. The last versions were a "9 button" design and worked much better. Were the fork seals changed recently? It wouldnt be the first time a fork leaked oil all over the brake, contaminated the pads and just cleaned and slapped them back in there and hoped for the best. There are aftermarket ones from EBC and Braking that people tend to like, but my stock rotor is going fine and probably has plenty of years left on it (when you dont ride your bike, the brakes last MUCH longer and cause no problems).

 

[bueller412]

Looking to add a muffler/can to the stock header pipe. I reached out to both Drummer and Dean Adams and both were great about getting back to me. Still evaluating options from both. You are right about V&H and D&D; both exited the tuber models years ago.
The reason for the switch to the HSR 42 is to flow a little more air/juice and I love the performance of the smoothbore. I had one on an old twin cam I had built and it worked perfectly - never an issue.
The rotor is a 6 button config which I'm guessing is the older style. I'll try cleaning this one up and bleed it to see if I can smooth out the initial shudder. Maybe a new set of pads also.
Thanks again for all the input.