another oil question.....

Buellxb Forum

Help Support Buellxb Forum:

heagachongoose

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 23, 2012
Messages
1,394
Location
Chicago IL
hey guys, im sure this topic has been thoroughly over-discussd on this site but ive looked and still havnt found the answers for what i was looking for so ill just ask lol.

im a recent buell convert and i recently bough my 2003 xb9r from a harley technician who had kept non synthetic harley oil in it. he said harleys dont do well with synthetic but idk if this is true because this is my first experience with harley/buell bikes. typically all my other bikes have been I4's so i kept synthetic in them. but my real question is my dipstick reads halfway up the "add" section and i need to know whether i need to add oil. if i do add oil i might as well drain the whole thing and just put a fresh batch in. ive read numerous reports of people saying they have trouble with their bikes because of too much oil so they would run the level lower than normal.

so basically i just need to know if i should add oil, if yes then should i stick with the organic harley or switch to synthetic?
 
Synthetic is good for these bikes because they run so hot, synthetic won't break down as fast. Most people use synthetic.

I use amsoil, have tried royal purple and mobil 1 and they are all fine just get amsoil cheaper/easier now.

Use 20w50 in the swingarm(engine oil) and the primary(transmission). Roughly 2.5 qts for swingarm and 1 qt for primary.

Check oil with bike on it's side stand, not upright. Sounds like you're fine. If it's on the dipstick you're probably fine. It will expand when hot so don't overfill. It's preferred to check it when warm to get an accurate reading.

BE CAREFUL the drain plugs strip VERY easy. Don't use the factory torque specs, just use some blue thread lock and get them just past snug.
 
I run amsoil 20/50 in my buell and Harley, before I switched to amsoil I had mobil1 synthetic in the Harley. I don't know why that guy thinks they dont do well with synthetic. I always put enough oil in to where it reads half way up the checkered part of the dipstick.
 
Alrighty. So what about the oil filter? I don't know whats already on the bike off the top of my head but it's prolly the stock filter, but would it be more beneficial performance-wise to switch to a k&n? If I do switch would I have to re-tune?
 
Oil and filter have nothing to do with tuning.

WIX/Napa gold are good(same filter). OEM is probably fine. K&N is probably fine. Cheap filters like the cheap frams are not as good, but work.
 
Sorry for sounding like a complete retard there, this is my first non-carbuerated bike so I'm still not sure how this whole ECM thing works haha.

So I appreciate all the input and I've been doing some additional research of my own, it seems to be that everyone uses 20w50 but what about 10w40? Theoretically speaking using a thinner oil would potentially increase power correct? [confused]
 
Check out the "Thinner Is Better?" section of the article at Car Craft. They provide horsepower numbers with different viscosity oils in the same engine.
 
Thanks xrox, that was an interesting article. I wish I had a local dyno so I could test this myself. Anybody know of someone in the forums that runs low viscosity oils?
 
Thinner oil will produce more power, but if the engine is designed for a thicker oil it may not last as long a life.

FWIW though the amsoil database lists 10w40 as the proper oil for a 2005 xb9r. It lists 20w50 for a 2005 xb12r. I use 20w50 per the manual.

It would probably be ok to use 10w40 but for a couple hp I'll use what's in the manual.
 
alright so i just bought some mobil 1 vtwin from my local autozone and will be converting my baby to full synthetic just as soon as my k&n filter comes in the mail.

in all these forums about oil people always say what they use and that they like it, i have yet to see any explanations as to why they prefer certain products?
 
Amsoil, mobil 1, royal purple, etc synthetics are all going to be baisically the same. Most filters are basically the same as well. The cheapo filters use cardboard gaskets/seals(in lieu of rubber) and leaf springs instead of coils, etc. They work just not as good quality.

Realistically, any 20w50 oil is going to work. Synthetic is better. These brands are most popular.

I use amsoil and wix filter because I get it easy, cheap, and they are both great quality. I also use amsoil/wix in my truck and car. Have used mobil 1 and royal purple as well. Also used "off the shelf" stuff before that. It all does the job.
 
Ah i see. So basically they are all the same and its just a matter of personal preference and whats easiest to get.

So there are no 20w50 synthetic oils that boast performance increases over others?
 
Most people choose an oil for whatever reason then decide they need to promote it and just say it's better. Like I use amsoil and I could go around saying "I switched from royal purple to amsoil and noticed cleaner shifts, lower operating temperatures, more horsepower, and better mpg, it is DEFINITELY better". But all the major brand synthetics are about the same.
 
20/50 standard oil change every 3,000 miles w/o fail
20/50 synthetic oil change every 4-5,000

both holes get the same kind.

10/40 only if your area temps never get above 50 degrees.

just my .02 and for the love of God and all that is good and holy in your soul DO NOT use a torque wrench on either drain plug.
 
Back
Top