Balanced Headers,and related fueling ..

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Amlittley

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I am looking at changing my exhaust system from the stock behemoth to something a little more durable.
At the same time I thought to go for balanced headers, either equal length or volumetrically balanced (unequal diameters as used on the ducati)the problem is that I dont know how to get a hold of the,m and which would be the best suited for my purpose.. any suggestions.
Then comes the related fueling issues, what are the recommendations, EBR, ECMSpy, ot power commender?
It seems to me that the fuel map as standard is too lean on the low end and possibly the ignition timing is also a little retarded, but this is only to feel and ear..
I am trying to sort out the low end running, as it is dog rough to 2500rpm. As for Pipes, I am looking at either a Jardine rt5 or a termignoni set.. anyone with experience of these please comment..
Other than that, bike is wonderful after I changed out the back shock that was kindly stuffed up by the local Harley dealer. why do harley dealers know nothing about suspension set up, its not rocket science...
 
Just curious, why go to the equal length headers? The performance gains will be negligible if any. Tuning would be required (ie; a slight nightmare) and it would probably take quite a bit of it to achieve optimal results. One, price of the headers (custom one-off set?) two, tuning, nobody has anything remotely close, it's a 72 degree v-twin, not a 90 like a ducati.

Yes, the fueling is lean in stock trim. EBR has race ecm's available for $250 and they're pretty much spot on. It will fix the low end stumbling for sure, in addition to much smoother pulls everywhere else in the rpm range.
If you're after maximum power, then I'd recommend EBR's full system (assuming $$ isn't a problem) but if it's bang for the buck, there's a lot out there. Americansportbike did a shootout last year in May. Have a look at it, it's worth the read.

If you want a custom made slipon, I might be able to help out. What I made hit 137.8 hp in the shootout, it's even higher (low-mid 140's) with EBR's race ecm. Other than the full race system, I don't think there's anything out there making as much power.
 
Hi, and thanks for your advice[up]. should have mentioned I am in Ireland,a part of the european union. so anything without a CE stamp would not go down well with the powers that be:(.
Reason for equal length headers is that I am on a 2008 model bike, before the stainless headers, and my headers are rotting faster than an unprotected manhood in a Nairobi brothel in the inclement Irish climate.(I've only had the bike just over a month.)
Thus, if it is necessary to replace the headers with stainless ones, I thought that it would be worth getting balanced ones. I've seen your slip ons on the forum and they look amazing, though sound levels may be an issue. EBR's ecm is set up for US fuel.. 93 whereas our fuel here is either 95 or 100.
so, for the headers it is a question of pay for stainless oem or stainless balanced headers.. someone is doing a free spirit system with 53mm balanced headers at £1200 and I can get a full termignoni kit for about the same.. If I went the EBR ECM route, it is likely that I would need to get the programmable one to deal with the differences.
absolute power is not really my consideration here, usability would be the main criterion, I want a smoot bottom end, and reasonably cool running. maintaining the linear torque curve would be nice, and a few extra ponies in the stables would be an added bonus..
I was thinking of a slightly richer bottom end mixture, a marginally leaner midrange and spot on from 6000 upwards.. a good touring map without sacrificing all out performance..
Have you sold any pipes into Europe, and if so, have there been any difficulties?? If your pipes are quiet enough, they look fantastic.. what would they cost to ship to europe..
 
Comments -

1. Different tube diameters will change the gas speed. Larger will slow down, smaller will speed up the gas exit speed.

2. Equal length, as the term goes, equalizing may help a little, but as Dean says, it will mean very little during normal driving. For all out max. hp...yea, but real life, you'll never see it.
Beside, the collector evens out much of the uneveness of the secondary tubes. That's just the physics of the system.

3. The ECM tuneups (changes) for using different tube lengths and or diameters shouldn't be any more difficult to get right thAn any other tuenup...just different.

4. I could be wrong here...but I'm under the impression that "all" 1125 (and XB) headers are Stainless..!?
While the stainless used in the systems CAN get/be "stained", actual rotting...while it is possible, should be long in the future.

5. Running under 2500 rpm...
Hmm. Well, first I was told that - "these engines are high strung, very high performance engines and not expected to run well under 3000rpm", by a somewhat respected "expert" on the 1125.
First...the above comment is B.S. in general.
While the Rotax engine is basically a nice engine and has a few sorta current part designs...one thing it isn't...a high strung super duper technological engine.
Ok...all that said...your problem is ECM tuning. Both fuel and ignition timing. We're ALL stuck with having to do tuning to get the engine to be happy..!
BUT...I've yet to drive any....sport bike that will run WELL at a steady speed of 2000rpm.
The best I've gotten my 1125 to is 2300/2400 that it's cruisable at that speed. And that's pushing it...! Hell, I even cruised thru town one time at about 22/2300rpm...but the engine wasn't very happy doing it..!
And for what it's wirth...I think that pretty good for ANY twin cylinder hot rod engine.
And that's with carefull tuning, map change after map change.
Though I try to limit slow speed crusing much below 2500rpm. Otherwise...just use the clutch to keep the speed down...!

Hope this make sense and helps some.

Mike
 
Try brushing the stock headers with some steel wool, they ARE stainless (300 grade) and should clean up. I have shipped to Germany, but mine are all marked as race use only.

Also, EBR's ecm will smooth out the engine even with the stock muffler.
 
if power is not an issue then my suggestion is to try to clean up your stock headers( they are all stainless that I know of on the XB & 1125 buells) then have them wrapped(cheapest route for now) or powdercoated or better yet have them ceramic coated, but if the wont clean up good enough because of extensive corrosion then buy a new (or used good corrosion & dent/scratch free) headers and ceramic coat them and it will keep them looking good and free of corrosion .

in Ireland you say,
i guess it does it rain alot & you live in an salt infested area(salt on roads alot for winter or sea spray/ocean ). is this the reason(s) for the corrosion or what???? if so what do you & others do to protect your other vehicle(s) from this ???

if it rains alot or salty / sea spray then dont do the wrap do the ceramic coating it should provide the best protection against this with very little maintance
 
here is some threads on the wrapp and powder coat and Ceramic coating, and stainless info/corrossion links. hope these may help/

Header-wrap-or-not

http://www.ssina.com/faq/index.html#1

http://www.ssina.com/download_a_file/cleaning.pdf

http://www.ssina.com/index2.html

http://www.ssina.com/corrosion/galvanic.html

http://www.nace.org/content.cfm?parentid=1001&currentID=1001more corrosion info

stainless steel- corosion resistance

Exhaust-Wrap-Smoke & stainlees corrsion thread



..


please post some pics of your headers (whole thing and close ups) . so we can see how bad they are .

.
 
Hey guys, thanks for all of the help and advice.
I picked up a brabd new termignoni titanium 3/4 system for €500 delivered.. pretty pleased with it, now it's only to sort out the map, unsure wherther to go EBR ECU or a power commender, the new one will give dual maps, and Holeshot racing is up north for the tuning..
the pipe has made a big improvement on the low end tractability..
Overall I am pretty pleased with how things have turned out with the exhaust..
 

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