Barnett clutch and metal shavings, wrong fluid?

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Bad Karma

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Feb 1, 2012
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Installed a Barnett clutch and per directions started to use Type F ATF. Used Mobil one Type F. Well...not an oil change latter the tranny started to get hard to shift, I started to miss shifts and it started to slip out of gears.

I decided to go with a heavier oil but as I drained my primary fluid I noticed large metal shavings in the oil and on the plug. OK this isn't good at all. I'm guessing I'm in for a rebuild? This has me pissed. Should have thought it too light an oil for the gearbox. That's what I get for following the "destructions" that came with the clutch.

I'm hard on the bike and drive it like it's stolon often but have never seen any signes of wear other that supper fine dust in the oil.

Was this a mistake running Type f in gear box? What is the average cost of a rebuild replacing gears and bent forks? And who the hell does XB trannys.? I've looked on zippers website and see nothing but tuber trans service. Any one use R&D?

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Those metal shavings are not bad at all. I would never use ATF in an XB. I ran Barnett carbon fiber clutch plates for a long time with both Syn3 and Mobil 1 V-twin 20/50 with great results.

R&D just did a gear set for my bike. They do really good work but I didn't have them do the install.

I would replace the fluid with something closer to the factory recommended fluid, ride it for a while and see how the trans. works. I would wait to decide on a trans rebuild until you do that. How many miles are on the bike?
 
Definitely get that ATF out of your gear-case like Eric said.. a couple of flushes with an hour ride time in between should do.. it's my guess the shift drum isn't actuating smoothly with the lighter oil.. also re-adjust your clutch per FSM after the flush.. the shavings on your plug are not out of the norm for an XB when breaking in, but lean on the excessive side of normal for an average miler.. those shavings could also be the square edges of the new friction plates wearing in to the hub.. no pause for concern there.
 
Well OK then. Maybe I was overreacting a bit with the tranny doing funny **** with the atf in.

Bike has 24,5xx miles. 16k are mine.

I do a lot of clutchless shifting up and down with vary good results. No metal AT ALL on plug after 5 primary oil changes, only using the atf did I get the metal. Unfortunately with all the missed gear shifts with the atf it probably was gear shavings.

I did a flush with some 20-50 moto oil I had laying around(runs much smoother) and will replace that tonight with something.... What do you guys think about Rotella 20w50 or 15w40 oil for primary? That's what I've got in the engine right now. It seems to like it so far.


Thank you guys, for the reply!!
 
That clutch less shifting WILL cause tranny failure sooner or later. Our trans use straight cut gears not helical.
 
Rotella 20-50's just fine in both holes.. many run synthetics(I do), but report a slight increase in mechanical clatter.. (the jury is still out on the overall cost-benefit of synthetic). Clutch-less "rpm" shifting will have consequences, long term.. you will eventually bend a shift fork, or shatter gear teeth on a miss-shift
 
@freak I am 99% sure that the xb bikes have helical gears, the 1125 bikes have the straight gears. I am not weighing in on whether or not to do clutch-less shifts.
 
@freak I am 99% sure that the xb bikes have helical gears

Not all. If I'm correct 07 up use the helical gear and 06 down use straight cut. It's been a while since this topic has been brought up, but all the sets of gears I've seen from rebuilds on here have been straight cut.
 
Not all. If I'm correct 07 up use the helical gear and 06 down use straight cut. It's been a while since this topic has been brought up, but all the sets of gears I've seen from rebuilds on here have been straight cut.
06 and up has the helical gears. I just did a rebuild of mine and they were helicals and I have an 06. When looking up part numbers the 03-05 had straight cut gears. If you didn't have bronze flakes in your fluid I would just change the fluid and get the ATF out and you should be good. If you had bronze flakes which would only be in the fluid they wouldn't always stick to the magnet then you are wearing shift forks. If it shifts fine after going back to 20W-50 I would just leave it alone and continue running that with regular changes as before.
 
Was this a mistake running Type f in gear box? What is the average cost of a rebuild replacing gears and bent forks? And who the hell does XB trannys.? I've looked on zippers website and see nothing but tuber trans service. Any one use R&D?

If you aren't doing the work yourself you are looking at probably over 1000 because of having to split the case. I rebuilt mine replacing what was broke with a few other small things and was at about 300 with a full engine gasket set. That was also not having messed up gears. I did replace all the shift forks, the shift cam (one of the major expenses), and the shift shafts.
 
If you didn't have bronze flakes in your fluid I would just change the fluid and get the ATF out and you should be good. If you had bronze flakes which would only be in the fluid they wouldn't always stick to the magnet then you are wearing shift forks. If it shifts fine after going back to 20W-50 I would just leave it alone and continue running that with regular changes as before.

No bronze flakes in the oil. I usually just glance at the oil and check the plug so, I'll keep a sharper eye on fluid changes now.


If you aren't doing the work yourself you are looking at probably over 1000 because of having to split the case. I rebuilt mine replacing what was broke with a few other small things and was at about 300 with a full engine gasket set. That was also not having messed up gears. I did replace all the shift forks, the shift cam (one of the major expenses), and the shift shafts.

I'll pull the tranny myself and send it off. What I'd like is; who ever builds it to install Andrews gears, backcut and possibly cryo the gear set. Get the shift forks cut to match the gears better. And of coarse a smooth shift drum.
I don't know of the 06 but I know the 07 and up are helical.


I use syn 3 in my bike with barnett plates and no problems at all.

It'll be this ^^ or Rotella. I'll try both and see what she likes.
 

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