Belt rub = low tone squeaky sound? Primary Drive belt rubbing

[1776Brigade]

Sorry for the lame description of the sound. Noticed an odd sound that I first attributed to my front brake rotor as a mechanic I first took it to suggested the rotor is slightly warped, but not in need of replacement yet. Despite that, I've been riding for about 400 miles, and noticed a cyclical low tone squeaky sound between the speeds of 7 to 15mph that corresponds to the rotation of the wheels. It occurs regardless of being on or off the brakes or whether in gear or coasting with clutch in.

So, today I noticed the outer plastic primary drive belt guard was extremely close to the belt. After removing it, I also saw that the backside metal belt guard has abrasion marks on it where you can see the belt is rubbing against it.

Could this be the cause of the sound? More importantly, how should I fix it? I assume it just needs to be adjusted or "bent" away from the belt.

The first picture is a wider shot. The second is showing a paper slid as far back as possible before it gets stuck between the belt and guard. The third is a small metal yard stake to show a bit more context about how the belt gets closer and closer the guard until it completely rubs.


Now maybe related are the next two pictures showing the edges of some of the belt beginning to fray. Note, this is on the outside of the belt. My guess is maybe it has rubbed against the outside plastic guard. Or, is this normal wear and tear? The bike has almost 13,000 miles, and my understanding is the belt is original.

 

[Beebop]

I would be checking rear wheel bearings.

 

[user_deleted]

YES...it is the cause of this sound.
NO....do not bend guards away from belt to solve the problem.
NO...this is NOT a "primary drive belt". your primary drive is via chain....your final drive is via belt.



when an XB belt is "serviceable"....and the rear wheel has been installed properly and torqued to spec and sequence...and the drive belt is "walking" on either the front or rear pulley(impossible to simultaneously do both)....the problem will be one or more of the items i listed in link below. click link and read my response.
NOTE: there is the possibility that a severely worn trans output shaft bearing can cause this but it is so extremely rare i didn't mention it.

https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?54433-Belt-alignment-problems

 

[Cooter]

Ya, probably the sound, go ahead move the belt guards if it fixes it, then good for you:eagerness:

When checking the belt for walking make sure you aren't backing it out of the garage first, it will walk a little to the outside when going backwards. Not your issue, just thought I'd mention it.

The "fraying" of the outside belt threads is normal and I get them new out of the box like that sometimes, no need to worry.

 

[1776Brigade]

Thanks for the information. Going to check in with a local mechanic about replacing wheel bearings.

And thank you for the clarity between the primary drive chain and the final belt drive.

 

[1776Brigade]

I have an 2009 xb12Ss. Is there a way to know which rear wheel bearings I need before pulling the wheel? I understand most have a 2 bearing set vs the newer have a 3 bearing set. And is there a tutorial on the site for removing the rear wheel and/or bearings? I have the manual and see directions on 2.6.

And does the axle require an adapter to remove?

Are the All Balls bearings better than OEM Buell bearings?

 

[user_deleted]

I have an 2009 xb12Ss. Is there a way to know which rear wheel bearings I need before pulling the wheel? I understand most have a 2 bearing set vs the newer have a 3 bearing set. And is there a tutorial on the site for removing the rear wheel and/or bearings? I have the manual and see directions on 2.6.

And does the axle require an adapter to remove?

Are the All Balls bearings better than OEM Buell bearings?

Is there a way to know which rear wheel bearings I need before pulling the wheel?
YES. look at left side of your wheel. if you see a spacer and black grease seal it's a THREE BEARING wheel. if you don't it's a TWO BEARING wheel.

And does the axle require an adapter to remove?

it DOES require either the axle tool located in your factory tool-kit...or improvise as seen in attached pics. BE DAMN SURE TO REMOVE AXLE PINCH BOLT IN LOWER PORTION OF RIGHT SIDE SWINGARM LEG.

Are the All Balls bearings better than OEM Buell bearings?

NO

 

[34nineteen]

be damn sure to remove axle pinch bolt in lower portion of right side swingarm leg.

yes!!!

are the all balls bearings better than oem buell bearings?

no

who are you? What have you done with john?

 

[Endopotential]

I had to remove my rear wheel recently without the official Buell tool.. You definitely have to get creative.

So to clarify those pictures above - either find yourself a long 7/8" coupling nut, or else John's brilliant idea of using a spark plug socket turned around backwards.
Trying to use two smaller nuts on a threaded rod just wouldn't work for me.

The rear wheel needs to be torqued down very tight, so whatever you use make sure it's made of some high quality metal that won't deform.

 

[Cooter]

Caution:
The rear axle on an XB only gets torqued to 25 ft-lbs, back off 2 turns and re-torque to 50 ft-lbs. Front is 20... then 40.

Over-torquing the rear axle even only one time can squish the aluminum bearing spacer out of speck and side-load every set of bearings you put in after that greatly shortening their lifespan.

 

[rchuff]

You really should download a manual. Worth its weight in gold!!!! Or you can go on Ebay and find used ones

 

[1776Brigade]

Got it. Section 2.6 of manual.

 

[rb70383]

Caution:
The rear axle on an XB only gets torqued to 25 ft-lbs, back off 2 turns and re-torque to 50 ft-lbs. Front is 20... then 40.

Over-torquing the rear axle even only one time can squish the aluminum bearing spacer out of speck and side-load every set of bearings you put in after that greatly shortening their lifespan.

^^^^!!

3 sets of front wheels bearings within a couple months. Had the original set go out and chew up the spacer. Didn't catch it at first. New spacer, bearings last much longer...go fig

 

[1776Brigade]

Just to confirm before I buy the bearings. This is a two bearing wheel. Correct?
Thanks in advance.

 

[34nineteen]

Look inside, you should be able to see.

One big spacer in the middle and bearings on the ends.

 

[1776Brigade]

Fellas, can't thank you enough for slow walking me through this.

So, another issue - I assume is common - the bolts holding on the rear fender and front fender have some sort of loctite on them. I half stripped one, and just about to strip another. They are super crazy tight.

Clearly, I can't use a blow torch unless I want to replace my fenders. Any other suggestions? I resolved to use the Buell tool since the bit I was using was destroyed on a previous bolt (clearly a cheap bit, but better the bit than the bolt).

 

[Cooter]

T27 is the correct torx size for all the body bolts. You can put considerable pressure on them without stripping when using a quality bit.

A T25 is easier to find... but it's the wrong size, will feel loose, and strip the head. Then you will have turned a one beer job into a 3 beer pain-in-the-a$$.

I 1000% agree with Lunatic on buying one nice set of 3/8" drive Torx sockets, and a set of the 1/4" torx bits that fit in a screwdriver handle or 1/4" small hex ratchet. Even Craftsman sells JUNK, unless you buy the "Professional series" that they don't carry in stores. Hello Sears?? where are you??

I have had great experience with the Milwaukee brand you can find in The Home Depot and they are surprisingly affordable.

 

[1776Brigade]

Update:
after a stupid merry-go-round of choosing race stands to get the bike up, I finally removed tires, and Performance Cycle of Colorado put Michelin Road 5 and new bearings on all around.

Installed according to manual and two Buell owners Youtube videos.

One question. The belt has a paper-width space between the inner stone guard and the belt. Is this normal? You can see from the pics that the belt is seated on the rear tire properly. I've just put about two miles on the new tires.