Bike only runs w/ Jumper Cables

[CharlosCarlies]

Hey guys,

My bike has been sitting in my garage for about 6-8 months now, and when I went to start it a few months back the battery was unsurprisingly dead. Ended up being a bad battery and I replaced it. Just the other day I charged the new battery back up and tried to start the bike and nothing.

My charger didn't seem to be working, so I tried jumping the bike w/ cables and it started up just fine. As soon as I took off one of the cables, it died immediately.

Is this just a bad connection somewhere or possibly the alternator?

Much thanks in advance!

 

[agfish18]

these bikes dont have any alternators... they have what is called a stator. I would bet money it is your stator though. did your check engine light come on at all when it started on the cables?

 

[Miami78]

Same thing happened to me when I first got my bike after I left my parking lights on all day at work. Jumped it but it would only stay running while the cables were on. Only after the battery sat on the charger for a full weekend would it work properly again.

 

[xl_cheese]

If it's pre 06 then check the connector to the voltage regulator. I think it's something like connect 77.

Those are prone to short. Sometimes cleaning the contacts and flexing/bending them so that make a stronger connection works.

Also use some dielectric grease.

I'm a fan...
http://www.facebook.com/#!/group.php?gid=100502286527&v=wall

 

[agfish18]

check the connector to the voltage regulator

this could be the issue too... the stator doesnt charge the battery while running like an alternator, it merely maintains the charge that it does have.

You said that you charged the battery prior to starting it, even if it was a bad stator, your bike should still run until it uses all of your battery power. since it wont start at all with a charged battery you may want to check your voltage regulator...and the grounds to your battery.

also take your battery to an autozone or somewhere similar and they can test your battery. that will rule out a bad battery. if it is a good battery, leave it on the charger for a day or so to make sure it is fully charged.

 

[xl_cheese]

Also check the battery terminal connections.

I recently picked up a Uly that didnt' start. I removed the battery wires and cleaned all the contacts up with sand paper. After that the bike fired right up.

 

[CharlosCarlies]

Looks like great info thanks a bunch guys.

 

[Sirius815]

these bikes dont have any alternators... they have what is called a stator

Yes our bikes have a stator. Additionally, our bikes have a rotor and something called a voltage regulator. These three items together form what is commonly found as one piece in an automobile called an alternator. If we did not have an alternator, you would have to constantly charge your battery. Where do you think the current comes from? Not attacking you, however saying that we do not have an alternator is misleading.

To the OP - your bike will/should stay running with the battery disconnected due to the voltage and current produced by the rotor/stator/voltage regulator.

 

[Tork]

Sirius,

While the bike may indeed run with the battery disconnected, it's definitely not good for the charging system and especially hard on the voltage regulator, which varies its output based on the state of battery charge. When you remove the battery, it tries to instantly produce max possible voltage (thinking the battery is at zero volts and needs maximum charging voltage). This is the voltage "spike" that is often associated with this troubleshooting method and isn't good for the charging system and can also damage the ECM or other voltage-sensitive components. So, while it may not damage anything the first time, and you may have seen your buddies or local repair shop do it, it's not something I would do on any bike or car that I give a crap about. If you do some research, you'll find mechanics (both shadetree and certified alike) arguing both sides of this.

Everyone is free to do whatever they want with their bikes, and troubleshoot by any means they are comfortable with, but I wouldn't recommend removing the battery as a means of determining whether your charging system is good or not, especially if it potentially damages it (which is rather counterproductive, no?).

Me personally, I'd rather take a more diagnostic approach by putting a known good battery into the bike, start the motor, and observe the voltage at the battery terminals, which should indicate around 13.5 volts or so if the charging circuit is functioning, and increase slightly when the engine is revved. If the charging voltage is less than 13 volts, then I would start investigating the charging system components. If the charging voltage appears normal, I would suspect the battery and/or connections which would degrade the battery's ability to take or hold a charge.

The manual includes procedures for measuring inputs and outputs for each charging system component, which requires only a voltmeter.

Back to the OP - For diagnosing a suspected battery, your best option is to take it to Autozone or similar auto store as recommended by Agfish.

FWIW, I always start troubleshooting the most simple stuff like battery cables and cable connections since they can cause erratic and intermittent symptoms that are sometimes hard to diagnose and can send you on a goose-chase.

 

[wiguy85]

if anyone doesn't have one, a Fluke multimeter is one of the best things you can have in your toolbox.

(i guess they make cheaper ones like centech and all that could work, maybe i just like Fluke!!)

 

[freak2180]

Fluke's are awsome....I have a 179.

 

[Sirius815]

@ Tork - PM'd you.

 

[badgerbuell]

For sure check your grounds. This happened to me right after I got my bike and I was super pissed. Turned out to just be a loose ground on the battery.

 

[Builtdesign]

I agree with Tork! Just take it to an auto parts store and test it. The battery can show over 12 volts on a multimeter and still not crank because of low amperage.

so I tried jumping the bike w/ cables and it started up just fine

Just to check were you "jumping" it with a battery charger, like a 200 amp boost? Or cables from a car? If from a car you need to make sure the car is not running, it will have to much current flowing and fry your battery.

 

[Sirius815]

If from a car you need to make sure the car is not running, it will have to much current flowing and fry your battery.

What? Could you elaborate on that?

 

[Builtdesign]

^^You can jump a m/c just fine off a car just by hooking up the cables (car not running). The current going to the car battery (from alternator) when running is too much for a battery as small as a m/c to handle.

In other words, since the current is going directly to the m/c battery and bypassing (in a a sense) the regulator, it would be like running your bike with double the amount of current coming from the stator with nothing to shunt the extra current.

I hope that makes sense [smirk]

 

[Sirius815]

Nope sure doesn't - the only real difference (that I can see) is if you hook up a battery only, you get ~12.5V out of the battery. With the running car, you'd get closer to 14.4V. This voltage *could* make a difference, however I highly doubt that it would blow up the battery. Yes, the mc battery has less internal resistance, but even so I don't think enough current would pass through the mc battery to blow it up. Just think, your bike's putting out ~14.4V when running as well and won't blow up the battery. (although the stator in a motorcycle is not capable of the current output compared to a car's stator, but still the mc battery wouldn't blow. You could even charge a mc battery using a car's charging system. Same deal.

 

[Builtdesign]

That would make sense if you only consider voltage alone. But the amounts of amperage between a cars charging system and a m/c are completely different. That's all there is to it. What limits m/c's when accessorizing with lights, air horns, heated grips and clothing is the amperage draw on the system. You never have this problem with high-current lighting and sound systems on cars. The reason is the higher amp charging system to the battery.

 

[Sirius815]

^^ PM'd

 

[jimijeans]

Carlies, the guys all have good advice here AND WElCOME TO THE FORUM/ A 30 amp Stator is (IN Working condition) pretty good at keeping, with a good regulator everything working. NOW if A bike sits more than a month w/out starting. The battery should have a Battery Tender attached so as to keep the life of the Battery to last longer.ALSO this is a good way to see if the charger is coming on a lot. THAT would tell you that the Bike needs attention also.Even though lots of people (won't agree with me) on this ,you should never jump start a bike with a Automotive battery.Have the Battery removed AND checked independantly.An auto parts place usually does this. THIS Depends on the Charging system thats being used to do the Jump Procedure. IF you are(Just) using the battery WITH OUT the engine running, Thats OK! Never leave the cables on So AS to Charge the weak Battery. Invest in the proper tools for keeping your Bike in tip top Shape![ SORRY] I own a Bike Shop and i am very strick about the way things are done in here. A voltage check would be my first Priority to the bike so as to not have a break down somewhere. I have seen many a Towing bill on a customer that just jumped the bike and thought it would be ok. And they went for a ride AND well, come and get me! I would check the system/and hope its just the Battery.THE BUELL Forum is a great place for advice/fun Buellers just want to RIDE but sometimes need each others help.Again WELCOME.