Blast tips, mods, info, etc.

[mik]

this is a straight repost from BF, I may edit it later:

Blast Tips, Mods & Info (updaded 4/9/2009)


BASIC 9 - MODS TO INCREASE PERFORMANCE (Simple, Free, Inexpensive, Better-Than-Free):
1) Install Iridium Racing Spark Plug (IXU01-27) – Awesome – better mileage, performance and at least 1 extra horse for about $35 + shipping from sparkplugs.com. This improves combustion and will pay for itself in fuel savings and no replacement ever saves on future spark plug costs too. Better-Than-Free!
2) Do primary adjustment - preferably sound method - on the loose side - If this is too tight, it will rob you of hp & wear shoe - ride around for 1/2 hour then adjust primary by ear - warmed up, idling on level ground, block under kickstand so bike is nearly level - loosen jam nut a lot, then loosen adjuster bolt till you hear noise, then tighten till noise disappears, then tighten jam nut keeping adjuster in place - primary is now properly adjusted.
3) Install aftermarket exhaust or modify stock exhaust by drilling a 1 5/8" hole directly across from the first hole of the stock exhaust on the same side as the stock hole but all the way to the right of it. You will gain about 1 hp for drilling stock exhaust, 2 hp for a Vance & Hines aftermarket exhaust, 3 hp for a Jardine and as much as 5-6 hp for a custom Supertrapp exhaust with stepped constant radius eshaust header. See Custom Intake & Exhaust tread - http://www.buellforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4773
4) Shim Carb needle to .050 - better slightly under than over - 2 #6 machined brass washers from a model store is close - this removes low end hesitation. The model store in my area did not have them so I polished some punched brass #6 washers from the local hardware store with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper until I got .049. Be careful when opening the top cover of carb to put shims under needle head as the spring can fly considerable distances!
5) You can do an air box mod and install a K & N air filter ($50+) but for the same or less money and less work, you can get a superior result by tossing the air box and filter and building a custom intake filter … see the Custom Intake & Exhaust thread http://www.buellforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4773 to see what other forum members have done. You can gain another horse here.
6) Drill Carb air-screw plug out and bottom air screw … then turn 2-2/3 turns out if you’ve done mod 3 & 4, 3 turns out if You’ve also done mod 5, 3-1/3 turns out if you have a Jardine or other superior free-flowing aftermarket or custom exhaust. The other mods have minimal effect.
7) Install a Yost CV-40 REV 1 Power Tube - unfortunately, you have to purchase the complete CV40 Master Kit, Rev 1 when only the Tube is needed. Expect 1-2 hp boost and smoother low to mid acceleration. You must have aftermarket exhaust and a free flowing intake for this to work well – the freer flowing your intake and exhaust, the better the result. Improves combustion and this can be very noticeable. You should NOT drill the slide in the carb as this only benefits twins. Installation is simple – remove your main jet and unscrew the tube under the jet and replace that tube with the Yost Power Tube – reinstall the jet as this does not impact your jetting. I got a bargain on eBay for $22 (retail $105). Make sure you get CV-40 carb Rev 1 and not the Rev L which is the older model.
8) Build a Carb Air Splitter or Purchase PowerNow – this mod is second only to shimming the needle and Yost Power Tube For effect and Improves bottom to mid acceleration. PowerNow Airflow Splitter for 40mm CV Keihen Carb (HD N56B / 27404-00YA). See Custom Intake & Exhaust tread - http://www.buellforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4773 for what some Forum members have done.
9) Rejet Carb to 45/170 if you’ve done mods 3 & 4 (later years have 170 stock – earlier years have 160) – rejet to 48/175 if you’ve also done mod 5 – rejet to 48/180 if you have a Jardine or other superior free-flowing aftermarket exhaust. The other mods should have minimal effect on jetting.
Tip: You can also add a Dial-A-Jet for CV-40 carb to give you adjustable jetting and this works well with the Yost Power Tube to better vaporize fuel - go down two jet sizes for Main jet and one size for Slow jet.
Note: 12 pounds = 1 horsepower … How many pounds can you remove from the bike? … How many pounds can you remove from the Handlebar Nut (a human who holds onto the handlebar while a motorcycle is underway)?
Note: When you've done the basic mods above and maxed-out the intake and exhaust, your Blast is breathing Twin style with 48/180 jetting, and Air-screw out 3 1/3rd turns on a stock Blast Motor. 48/175 with Vance & Hines or drilled stock exhaust.
Tip: If you do any of the mods to the carb, I suggest you replace the crappy bowl and top cover screws that easily strip with stainless steel cap screws – these are metric 4mm screws.


Oil Filter: Filter for 1988-2000 Toyota Celica/Corolla 1.5-1.8L fits Blast
**Don't use Fram #4967, they are Junk Filters
H D 63806-00Y is OK
Walmart - SuperTech #ST4967 (formerly same as OEM Buell) – quality low cost filter.
AC/DELCO / PF1233
MOTORCRAFT / FL836
PUROLATOR / L14476
STP / S4967
BOSCH / 3311
MOBIL / M1-103
K&N / HP-1003
BECK/ARNLEY / 041-8066
WIX / 51394
Napa / 1394
FLEETGUARD / HF6158
AMSOIL / EA009


Oil: Mobil 1 oil for motorcycles, in 20w50 (V-Twin formula) is one of the best but hard to find.
Mobil 1 (Auto Formula) in 15w50 - very close, readily found & what most use.
Amsoil is the best by a very small margin.
Any Name Brand of Synthetic or Semi-Synthetic oil in 20w50 or 15w50 is good choice.
Oil Check Secrets: Ride for ½ hour to warm oil. Find a transparent drinking straw. With an indelible marker, put two marks on the straw, one at 5/16 inches from the end and the second at 15/16 inches from the same end. Now, remove the dip stick and set aside. Put marked end of the straw into tank, keeping it and your Blast vertical, UNTIL IT TOUCHES BOTTOM. Put your finger over the other end of straw and pull out of the tank. The two lines on the straw correspond to the marks on the dip stick and the oil trapped inside the straw shows the level of oil in the tank. Check level and lift your finger off the straw to let trapped oil drain back into tank. You can put a funnel in oil tank opening to add a oil without making a mess, then use the tool through the funnel to recheck level.


Transmission Fluid: It's safe to use ANY (*Motorcycle) quality 20w50 or 15w50 Motor oil in transmission and use of the Superior Synthetics will even aid in shifting. Just use the same oil you use in the crankcase and keep it simple..
Shortcut to Change: Drain when hot. You might want to put a block of wood under the kickstand to get it a little more level to drain it all out. To fill, remove the transmission vent hose from inside of frame next to left side of battery and fill from there using a small funnel. Fill with exactly 1 quart. Replace the trans vent back into the frame channel and you’re done.


Fuel: Manual says 87 octane - decal on my 02 Blast says 91 octane – I use 93 octane (premium) because of octane dilution - prior user probably pumped 87 and you could get 1/2 gallon or more of 87 before pump hose clears previous selection and starts delivering yours.


Front Forks: When you change front fork oil, change to 7.5 oil for improved handling.


Spark Plug: Standard "NGK" Spark Plug is #DPR9EA-9.
Tip: get a Denso Iridium Racing Plug (IXU01-27) - increases output and mileage, maintenance free, self-cleaning, lasts the life of your Blast, pays for itself in savings – At least a 1 horsepower gain - About $35 plus shipping from sparkplugs.com.
Tip: For plugs that don't have a "Fixed" top cap on the stud, red loctite the center threads to the threaded top stud before installing or it could vibrate loose - includes the Denso Iridium Racing Plug.


Air Filter Element Alternative: K & N makes a Drop-in for the Blast for $50+. However, you will be much better served for the same or less money by tossing the air box and air filter and building a custom stack intake filter - see the “Custom Intake & Exhaust” thread to see what other forum members have done. At least a 1 horsepower gain! http://www.buellforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4773


OEM Parts: Chicago Harley gives a 20% discount on Internet orders - ChicagoHarley.com


Shop Manual and Parts Manual: These are available in PDF format in this Forum - get a hard copy if you’re doing engine work. 02 Shop Manual http://www.buellforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=584. O7 Parts Manual http://www.buellforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3527.


Oil leak/seep problem: Rocker Box Paper Gasket (infamous paper gasket leak on 01 to mid O2): Replace with new H-D/Buell (one piece) gasket or aftermarket Cometic.


Caution: Oil (breather) line and wire harness rubs through on air box sharp edge. Grind off sharp edge and protect or tape to prevent further damage - better yet, build a stack air filter and get rid of the air box.


Diagnosing Problems / Causes / Intake Boot (Das Boot): The Blasts carburetor is basically suspended by the intake boot and the air filter box. It is subjected to a large amount of vibration, and as it ages, it starts to crack, allowing the vacuum to escape and robbing your carburetor of the proper air & fuel mixture. DAS BOOT is responsible for most performance and starting problems on a Blast and is a common failure – get a spare or two or get a SUPER DAS BOOT from Thump-e in this Forum. Replacement is not a difficult.
Intake Boot Symptoms (Smallest to Largest):
1) Power Loss - loss of power while riding flat, not under load, not going uphill or steep grade
2) Small increases in fuel efficiency - you normally get 65-70 miles per gallon, and now you are getting 70-75
3) Random power loss followed by backfire, then a regain in power
4) Bike will turn over but will not start
5) Will idle but dies when you apply throttle.
6) Fast Idling
Tests
1) Make sure it is not a gas tank vacuum issue, try to start your bike with the gas cap off (If no continue)
2) Have you checked your fuel is on, the fuel filter &main line into your carburetor? (If yes continue)
3) Are you getting consistent spark from your plug? (If yes continue)
4) Place hand over carburetor while attempting to start - you should feel strong suction, (If not continue)
5) Replace intake boot
Note: You may have smaller issues for a month or more before the boot gets to the point where the bike will not start. It has also been suggested that you regularly change the intake boot at least every 2 years. Replacement at a garage will run you just under $170, 2 hours labor + part, the boot is about $11.00 and easy to replace. Following Service Manual instructions for checking fuel filter and removing carburetor will get you the disassembly and reassembly instructions. Be sure you have the boot seated in the grooves correctly, and that the clamps are in the correct grooves and tighten sufficiently.
Replacement: DON'T just Yank it out! Loosen both sides of the airbox then pull the airbox with the carb attached a little bit away - THEN you can pop out the Boot! On the left side of the airbox lower down, locate and remove the TWO bolts that hold the airbox to the triangular bracket that bolts to the block- But DO NOT remove that Third Bolt that holds the bracket to the engine block- that one remains intact! Then on the right side of the airbox, remove the one bolt that goes thru that small metal tab on the underside of the airbox - that attaches it to the engine block - the box and carb are free to move enough to pop off the intake boot (manifold connector). When you're done tightening the boot clamps (don't over tighten), use Blue loctite on the CLEANED threads on the right side bolt and tighten snugly (there is a Torque value to that bolt- so don't strip the aluminum threads in the block). On the left side, the bolts insert into a threaded insert in the airbox- just use ONE tiny drop of blue loctite on THOSE cleaned threads and snug them up really good but don't strip by over tightening. That’s all folks
Super Das Boot from Thump-e: This is a boot that has been completely sheathed in a full length stainless clamp rather than a hose clamp on each end - still being tested but could be the last boot you ever need!


Tires: Stock size is 100/80-16(Front) & 120/80-16(Rear).These companies make tires for the Blast:
Worst – Dunlop K330 - older OEM tires, the rear last 2,500-3,500(?) miles. Tires belong in trash!
Best Handling - Pirelli MT75 - current OEM tires - rear last 2,000-2,500 miles, front lasts 4,000(?)
Best Mileage and Rain Tire - Avon AM51 & AM52 - rear tires last 3,500-4k miles, with 7,000+ for front.
Wider Tires - AVON VIPER STRYKE AM63 - 140/70-16 (rear) - 110/70-16 (front)
PIRELLI DIABLO Scooter Tire in same sizes as AVON - best construction, handling & mileage - the winner!
Note: The wider tires are built for a scooter that weighs 200 pounds more than a Blast so they are strong and give great mileage - especially the Pirelli.
Tip: For extended mileage and smoother ride from front tire (this tip WON'T slow steering to any noticeable degree). Replace front tire with a taller size from any quality tire manufacturer, but use the 100/90-16 size INSTEAD of the OEM 100/80 series. The 90 series fronts will last a few 1000 more miles and soften the bumps a slight bit more.
Tire Pressure: Front 28-32 PSI – Rear 30-36 PSI (lower pressure for solo rider – higher pressure for loaded to GVWR). Check your tire pressure frequently as an underinflated tire will rob you of horsepower, performance and safety.


Warm-up: When your Blast comes off "fast idle", you’re ready to ride but take it easy for the first 10 minutes as the engine continues to warm-up. If you idle for 10 minutes you can over heat because it is an air-cooled engine and needs to be moving to cool properly. Also, engine is not making optimal oil pressure at idle.


Headlight Upgrade: 7" round Candlepower or Diamond - I went from 55/60 watt quartz to 90/130 Xenon HID 6000 H4 bulb without melting wiring because Xenon HID gives 90/130 watt result from 55/60 input and is street legal - Awesome! More than 55/65 watt power consumption by the bulb is not street legal so please do not go there – just get a superior Xenon HID bulb. My Candlepower is Motorcycle specific rather than a generic automobile lens - not sure about the Diamond.


Ignition key: can be made with Volvo key blank VL6 by HY-K or Triumph blank (not readily available) - I had to go to a Locksmith.


Brake pads: Galfer Sintered Kevlar Brake Pads are the best - FD112 G1532 (front) - one finger braking. These pads are a great replacement for sport and utility use. They have the extra mechanical strength of a sintered pad and are good for use in sandy and wet, general purpose conditions of riding. Most of your braking is done by the front as weight is thrown forward when stopping … the harder you break the less effect the rear brake has and the more likely you will lock rear up and skid the back around. FD103 (rear).


Fork Brace: http://www.superbrace.com - Price polished $143.95, Black is $168.95. A fork brace will improve handling and braking. This is the only source right now.


By: Capt David

 

[ghostedrider]

here is what I have copied and can re donate back to the community ... hope it helps. ( posts are intermingled work of different authors )

CARB INTAKE GASKET ==================================================
don't tell them you're looking for a gasket for you Buell Blast. Tell them you're looking for a gasket for your Keihin CV40.


****Maintenance**** ================================================== =======

Primary Chain Adjustment: at 1,000 & at every 2,500 mi. interval thereafter.

**Note**The Blast is shipped with a spacer between the primary chain limiting
screw and the locknut. The spacer is discarded at the first service interval.



A inch-pound torque wrench is used to adjust primary chain :

Tighten chain limiting screw to 24 in/lbs
Back-off chain limiting screw 3/4 turn = 4 1/2 'flats' *Practical note: 12
flats more (14 flats out from torque spec is usually golden)is the experienced
recommendation by many. Hold chain limiting screw while tightening jam nut.

Too loose = that box of rocks sound
Too tight = your top end drops to like 65mph and it will throw your idle
off and you can stall out too.

So if this happens after your first service - this is one of the possible
reasons.

Well thats all there is to it, the inch/lb torque wrench would pay for itself
by the fourth adjustment - but its up to you, to justify the expense.

The following method though not recommended is used by many :

Can this be done without a torque wrench? To answer your question, Yes. From a cold start, let the bike get to a warmed up idle, then start tightening the primary chain. When you hear the idle
start to drop, back off 12 flats. I've been doing it this way for the last few chain adjustments, and it is usually within a flat of adjusting it with a torque wrench.
BTW, the reason for a cold start is to set the chain tension with a cold primary.

(Note: A hex nut has six sides, six flats, 1/3 of a turn is 2 flats.)


Chain # 40005-57B
$56.70
Tensioner shoe spring # 24349-00Y
$8.25
Tensioner shoe #39922-00Y
$6.93

Clutch basket washer #37870-91
$7.88

Clutch basket nut #37495-91
$14.18

Front sprocket nut #7839
$3.60

================================================== ============================
EZ's Stock Airbox Modification:

Ok -I'm going to lay it out plainly, step by step. While sitting astride your bike looking foward toward the front wheel,handlebars,tank,seat,etc. Now facing in that direction look down to the left side of
your bike behind the cylinder and you will see the plastic air scoop that directs air into the mouth of your intake : (the black plastic thing sticking out with the wierd shaped
hole). Peek in that hole and you will see your intake venturi sticking out (that black bugle mouth shaped thing sticking out of the left wall - your left). Now disassemble your intake - remember where
each screw and bolt goes or ziplock in a bag and label bag w/paper tape and a pen.

I would suggest that you have both a service manual and parts manual before you do any assembly/disassembly on your bike so you'll have good references. Now the best tool for this is a
Dremel with a small plastic/wood drill - cutting blade,others have used hole saws,and there are other choices as well - just be carefull - there is no redo without buying another intake - lol -
Essentially what you are going to do is cut the bugle/venturi off and then widen the hole to just before the filter holding circular wall
(that circle of plastic that holds the base of your filter in place - the base being the large end). Now is the time to reroute your
breather lines.

"Additudes" Site: http://www.bcrider.com
gives very good instructions on this topic,please see the links section.
If at this time you do not wish to reroute your lines, then do the following at least to help your engine's peformance. Looking at your carb with only the air boxcover off (the 5 snaps and philips screw) you will see a spigot aimed
at your carb.s' throat/mouth/opening (this is an epa thing that sucks and is totally unnescessary) turn the spigot 200 degrees so that it is now facing away and down from the carb throat - this will safely
vent any waste to the bottom of your air box (now also your catch can so clean regularly (once per month unless doing serious miles/high rpms
then much more often - once per week). When reassembling, remember that all screws that go to the engine- NEED to be red Lock-tited (only engine - not carb or others) in reassembly.

Your airbox will still mostly look stock to the casual observation, however with the K&N you will breathing at about 90% the efficiency of a stack (velocity stacks are
good as it gets) and anything else such as an exhaust will appreciate the extra air improving the exhausts performance as well.

Well thats it - a simple modification that will really improve the bikes breathing - thus improving engine performance (if you have a good ear for tones you'll notice the difference in sound).
I tried to keep it simple, not because I think anyone is stupid, but because experience has taught me that we all see things differently.

================================================== ===============================
Carb jetting tips :


Engine Carburation and fuel delivery systems and their repair/maintenance/upgrades.

Stock Jetting : pilot/mainjet
2000 - 2001 42/165
2002 - 2006 42/170

*ALL Aftermarket Exhaust(Except Buell Pro Series)use a 1-3/4" Header.

With aftermarket exhaust, but stock intake, rejet as follows :

Below 5000' Altitude - 45/170
Above 5000' Altitude - 44/165
*Note*-With Kerker exhaust which has a 1 5/8" crossover,use a #165 mainjet

For Aftermarket Exhaust AND a hi-flo intake or Modded Stock (EZ mod)...
...rejet as follows:

Below 5000' altitude - 45/175
Above 5000' altitude - 44/170

your going to have to remove the airbox per manual & loosen Das Boot just a bit. Then drop the bowl and rejet. Then put bowl back on. Then loosen side bracket screw on carb - it can be a bear - use PBBlaster (if that doesn't work -
use a dremel to turn it into a flat headed screw and leave it like that - I did - lol) - then remove top screws, remove lid slowly so spring does not fly out, shim needle, put lid gently back in so rubber gasket edges are not pinched, but seated into grove. Put top bolts back in,
tighten side bracket screw. Get a small drill bit attached to drill - tape up bit so only 1/8" is showing - drill out air screw plug - it is only sauder - do not try to drill in - you only want to destroy the sauder plug,not what is under it, when done take a pocket flathead screwdriver and turn the screw gently all the way in then 2 1/2 turns back out. Do airbox mod - your choice of which one - reinstall onto carb tighten boot - done.
EZ

Recommended jetting for better performance out of a stock Blast: 45/170, shim needle .05" (aprox. 2 brass #4 machined washers), air screw at 2 2/3rds out from light bottom - of course your gas mileage will be less - the first step into the dark side!


Re-setting the TPS at home:
My method is very sinmple and works for any bike with tps. Disconnect the battery negative lead. Before I remove the carb I check, note and mark throttle plate and shaft location. A small scribe mark on body and shaft is all you need. Then do the same for the tps hold down. Scribe the hold down and body. Now you can clean and repair carb and put everything back to the factory location. The tps is basically a rheostat. It varies current according to the throttle shaft position using the tps as a locator. The magic box used by h-d merely duplicates voltage ranges of the cpu. If You prefer to check the actual voltage you can use a low voltage step down rheostat switch and multimeter. Set the range according to that put out by the cpu and follow the manual for the voltage you need to read. Another method is to check the resistance across the wireing harness from the tps .Reset the tps to the reading you get when you put everything back together.


Here are the Actual Harley part #'s for those jets :
45 pilot = #27170-89
175 main = #27090-89
#48 low speed PN 27165-90 (or DS289320)

"NEEDLE JET" and the part # is "27100-88"

Pilot Jet (Slow Jet)
Part Number Jet Size
27165-90.........48........Perfect
27170-89.........45........Good/perfect for Hi comp piston
27171-89.........42........Lean
27281-92.........40........Very Lean
27117-88.........35........Too LEAN





Main Jet (High Speed)
Part Number Jet Size
27105-88..........200........Way Rich
27185-90..........185........Damn Rich
27114-88..........180........Rich
27090-89..........175........Perfect
27115-88..........170........Stock
27116-88..........165........Stock lean
27152-89..........160........Stock too lean,unless using 2ndary jetting (a Dial A Jet carb kit by Thunder Products, added a secondary Sportster jet, or other fuel outlet supliment)
27154-89..........155........Stock too lean,unless using 2ndary jetting (a Dial A Jet carb kit by Thunder Products, added a secondary Sportster jet, or other fuel outlet supliment)


JET NEEDLE (NOKK) PN 27241-95 to replace OEM JET NEEDLE PN 27637-00Y
The carb jetting is not all that hard to do, so just do it! Your Blast will thank you for it. Here is a link on modifying the CV carb:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm

The needle shims are probably the most difficult thing to find, you may have to do some rummaging around at a hardware store, I just used some small crimp on eye connections with the crimp cut off, and the remaining washer smoothed out. It came out to .047, close enough.

The most difficult proceedure is getting the diaphragm seated in the groove properly. I seat the diaphragm in the back side of the groove cut into the carb and start gently pushing down with the cover, then I take a 6 inch steel rule(Because its flat)and push the remaining diaphragm into the groove from the front side of the carb, when you get it right, the cover sort of slips into place.

At all costs avoid using too much downward pressure, or just run the screws into the cover as you will pinch the diaphragm and the carb will not work right. If you pinch and puncture the diaphragm you will need to buy a new slide assembly and they go in the $50+ range. Gentle pressure, don't get in a hurry and you will fast become an expert at it.


You remove the top of the carb. You remove the spring, you remove the plastic guide , you remove the needle from the grey plunger.
You put the two #6 brass washer on the needle , You put the needle back into the gray plunger

*Note* the brass washers should now be between the head of the needle and the gray plunger.

You put the plastic spring guide back
You put the spring back on
You carfully put the plastic carb cover back on, making sure that the black rubber seal is lined up.
Tighten screws on carb cover.


they also recommend replacing the stock needle with an early Sportster needle PN 27094-88. That may have already been mentioned.

EDIT: IF you replace the stock needle with this sportster needle there is no need to shim. I know there has been question on the .05" and weather to use 2 #4 or #6 washers to shim .... this will eliminate all that for around $6.00 from HD




=====================================

Accessing Idle mixture screw-
Carefully remove plug over idle mixture screw (drill it out carefully)
and reset idle mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns from fully seated,or for best
idle speed. If best idle is more than 3 turns out, switch to a 48 pilot
jet and re-adjust idle screw for optimum idle.

Shim the needle a little higher (~0.05".

The best course is to then to run your bike on a dyno equiped with a
wide band oxygen sensor (air/fuel meter). Optimum safe high performance
WOT A/F ratio is between 12.5 and 13.5. Anything over 14.5 is
excessively lean and risks stressing/overheating your combustion chamber.


================================================== ===================================

Spark Plugs :

(Factory Harley) #10R12A

10r12=DCPR9E=ixu01-27 heat range wise, not plug quality, recommended for the Vrod (which uses the 10R12A as gthe Blast does) is DCPR8EIX by them and that should be
DCPR9EIX to correspond exactly to the needed Buell/VRod heat range recommended by HD/Buell.
Which then directly crosses over to the IXU01-27, and its lesser breeds

DCPR8EIX is still a tad too hot, not too dangerously, but still. DCPR9EIX is the correct plug -
No - you want the IXU27B - regular Iridium, orIXU01-27 - the racing plug which is the bomb!!

buell ----- B12P

Quality NGK Spark Plugs cross referenced specifically for Buell Blast usage.

*Notice* The NGK Website had been showing the incorrect Plugs for the Blast !

*Side Note*- Plugs recommended below use larger socket/wrench size.

The correct Standard "NGK" Plug is a #DPR9EA-9 (stock #5329)

The correct "NGK" Iridium plug for our Blast, is NGK #DPR9EIX-9 (stock #5545)

*NOTE* - Iridium type plugs are the BEST in the World! (Highly Recommended)

NGK cross-ref recommendations:

NGK DPR7EA-9 hot (not recommended)

NGK DPR8EA-9 medium / stock # 4179

ngk DCPR8EIX / 6546 --------gap .040 (iridium)

NGK DPR9EA-9 cool (equivalent to Buell 10R12)


Terminal Nut, if necessary, order part #067606-0051 (ngk)

*NOTE* "DCPR type" are same, except(OEM)socket size....

Autolite -------- xtream sport---xs4164
--------- standard ------4164 -------gap .040

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ ++++++++++++++++++++++++++
================================================== =====================

heat rages for 2000 on back, changed in the year 2000 to the 10R12A heat range - I ran with the old heat ranges and it was the contributing factor to my engines melt down -
lol - stick with the factory heatranges Spark Plug Gap 0.038" - 0.043"

10R12A are the stock number for the Blast
for genereral cross reference and knowledge the following should help -

Buell 27661-00Y (10R12) (Supersedes old/hotter 6R12 OEM plugs)

NGK DPR7ea-9 hot (not recommended)

NGK DPR8EA-9 medium (still a tad hot)

NGK DPR9EA-9 cool (equivalent to Buell 10R12 & 10R12A)

DCPR same except socket size

Iridium plugs still cross reference over to the older hotter 6R12 plug, if you cross reference using the NGK number for the 10R12 you get IX27B (regular Iridium) which is correct, and its racing version -IXU01-27 !
Note: the Blast, XB, and VRod share a special conotation on their plugs - 10R12A - the A stands for added sealing, these plugs will not back out if torqued in correctly, however,
sooner or latter any aftermarket plug may need retightening - so please check your plugs tightness before any long trip - this is still advisable for stock as well - singles do vibrate after all;0)

lol my glitch - the correct part number is IXU01-27 is the correct stock number, the 27 being the correct heat range. Will fix.

************************************************** *****************

Spark Plug Gap 0.038" - 0.043"

10R12A are the stock number for the Blast

for genereral cross reference and knowledge the following should help -
Buell 27661-00Y (10R12) (Supersedes old/hotter 6R12 OEM plugs)

NGK DPR7ea-9 hot (not recommended)

NGK DPR8EA-9 medium

NGK DPR9EA-9 cool (equivalent to Buell 10R12)

DCPR same except socket size

Iridium plugs still cross reference over to the older hotter 6R12 plug, if you cross reference using the NGK number for the 10R12 you get IX27B which is correct, and its racing version!
Note: the Blast, XB, and VRod share a special conotation on their plugs - 10R12A - the A stands for added sealing, these plugs will not back out if torqued in correctly, however, sooner or latter any aftermarket plug may need retightening -
so please check your plugs tightness before any long trip - this is still advisable for stock as well - singles do vibrate after all;0)

Starting Diagnosis -
Please don't take this wrong. Is the kill switch in run? Fuel petcock in the reserve position? Fuel in the tank? First, does the motor turnover with the starter? If no check battery voltage at starter, large cable. If good then it's the low current circuit or the starter. If it's bad then it's the cable, connections or the battery. If it turns over the next think to check for is spark and fuel.
Pull the plug reconnect the high voltage plug wire ground the plug on the head, turn the motor over check for spark. Caution I would not hold the plug or wire without a good glove. If the plug is wet with gas when you pulled it then you know that you have fuel and should change the plug. If not wet, then turn the motor over while twisting the throttle and smell for fuel coming out of the cylinder.
Caution it may shoot mists of fuel out the plug hole. Hope this will get you started. If you don't have a Service manual please get one. Not an expert.

Traditional Spark Plug, 12mm Thread Size, 19mm (3/4") Reach, 11/16" (18mm) Hex Size, Gasket Seat, Resistor,
Stud Terminal Threads, Projected Tip, .035" (0.9mm) Gap, Heat Range 9. NOTE: Does not Include Terminal Nut,
if necessary, order part #067606-0051


************************************************** ********
I recently picked up a plug wire from Auto Zone for $5 which has fixed my recent misfire and sputtering problems. The Blast would just spontaneously die, and then spring back to life. I noticed it was a short
in the cable (both between the cable and plug as well as the cable and the ignition module),
and the ------- AutoZone part #15N -------------- Plug wire part number at Orielly's is #8N15. Less than $5.00
fits perfectly and has boots on both ends. This plug is way better than the poor contact setup that comes on the stock plug.

FYI, for plugs that don't have a "Fixed" top cap on the stud, red loctite
the center threads to the top stud before installing, otherwise they will
vibrate loose.

================================================== =============================

A set of oversized (110/70 front 140/70 rear) Pirelli Diablo scooter tires can make a Blast handle so good
you would think it was a differant bike altogether and don't need any mods to fit!


Previously, we had FOUND another *Oversize* Tire size that fit the rear of our
Blast- without swingarm mods or contact.
This was a VERY limited tire size: 140/70-16 made by Avon, Pirelli, Michelin, etc for the rear
use the 110/70 front with this and enjoy superior handling.


For extended mileage and smoother ride from the front tire... (and this tip WON'T slow steering too much)

Replace that front tire with a taller size from any quality tire manufacturer, but use the 100/90-16 size -INSTEAD of the OEM
100/80 series.

Those (90 series)fronts will then last a few 1000 more miles and soften the bumps a slight bit more.



-------------------------------------------------- ---------------------
Optional service products
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Air Filter element alternative:
K & N makes one of their oiled fabric filters as a Drop-in for the Blast.
Order part #

BU-5000 and don't pay more than $50.00 for the filter.

BUELL P0213T

 

[ghostedrider]

Alternate Motor Oils-

The Stock H-D Dinosaur oil isn't the best, but their NEW (expensive)
Synthetic "Screaming Eagle Syn3" is pretty good.

The Mobil 1 for motorcycles, in 20w50 (V-Twin formula) is also one of
the worlds best.

Very close in performance for the Blast is the Mobil 1-(Auto Formula)
in 15w50 (thats what I use).

The VERY BEST motor oil you can use in any Harley- is Amsoil...Period !
http://www.performanceoiltechnology.com/harleydavi dsonoil.htm

But any popular Name Brand of Synthetic or Semi-Synthetic in 20w50 is a
good choice for the Buell Blast.

*********************************

Alternate Trans Fluid substitutes-

It's safe to use ANY(*Motorcycle)quality 20w50 Motor oil in our transmission.
And use of the Superior- Synthetic 20w50's will even aid in shifting.


***WARNING***

-DO NOT USE (Hypoid) GEAR OILS IN THE TRANSMISSIONS !
(Especially Don't use Mobil 1 : 75w90 Synthetic Gear Lube)
Those lubes contain sulfur compound additives, which will eventually eat into
the Stator(Alternator) and short it out(PROVEN), causing the need for an
expensive repair !


================================================== ====================================

****Problems and remedies****
_____________________________

Oil leak/seep Problems- Early model (yr 2000- mid 2002) :

1. Rocker Box Gasket (infamous paper Gasket leak on pre-03 Blasts/Harleys)
Just replace with a new/current H-D/Buell(one piece) gasket, or one from an
aftermarket company like James or Cometic.



2. Oil line(also wire harness) rubs through on the air box:

The fix (for me) for the Sharp Airbox edge rubbing thru the oil (breather) line, is to first sand off that sharp edge a bit,and then make a slip-on

nylon sleeve to protect the line from further damage. The nylon material should be as tough as the air-box, but sanding off the sharp

edge actually takes the brunt off of the problem. I made the sleeve from Nylon tubing and slit it lengthwise to just pop over the line

with seam side back. It seems to have done the trick.



**************


Cracked/Leaking Intake Boot (aka Manifold coupler)-these fail often.

OEM Replacement part #27433-00Y

Replacement procedure follows, and is rather easy:

You DON'T just Yank it out ! You need to loosen both sides of the airbox first....then you can pull the airbox with the carb attached -

a little bit away -so THEN you can pop out the Boot ! Ok- on the left side of the airbox lower down- you locate and remove the TWO bolts that hold the airbox to the triangular bracket that bolts to

the block- But DO NOT remove that Third Bolt that holds the bracket to the engine block- that one remains intact ! Then on the right side of the airbox, remove the one bolt that goes thru that small

metal tab on the underside of the airbox- that attaches it to the engine block....after that- the box and carb are free to move enough to safely pop off the intake boot (manifold connector). When you're

done snugging up the boot clamps(don't overtighten and shread the rubber!) you Then use Blue loctite on the CLEANED threads on the right side bolt and tighten snugly (there is a Torque value to that

bolt- so don't strip the aluminum threads in the block). On the left side- the bolts insert into a brass- threaded insert in the airbox- just use ONE tiny drop of blue loctitie on THOSE cleaned threads and

snug them up really good- but don't strip by over tightening. And thats all there IS to it !



================================================== =========================================


Timing cover (points cover)


Harley P/N 32584-88TA. I think it retails under $20, otherwise,

the plastic one is P/N 32341-00YA and it retails about $5 and will eventually need to be replaced.


================================================== ================================================== =


full sized windshield for a blast part #57775-01Y




-------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------

The Blast has a vacuum operated carburetor. The intake boot transfers vacuum created from the stroke of the cylinder. The Blasts carburetor is basically suspended by the intake boot and the air filter compartment. It is subjected to a large amount of vibration, and as it gets older, it starts to crack, allowing the vacuum to escape robbing your carburetor of the proper air & fuel mixture necessary to run your bike well


Intake Boot Symptoms (Smallest to Largest) :

*) Flat Power Loss - If you are experiencing loss of power while riding flat, not under load, not going up a hill or a steep grade
*) Small increases in fuel efficiency - Do you normally get 65 to 70 miles per gallon, and now it seems your getting 70 to 75
*) Do you have random power loss followed by backfire, then a regain in power
*) Bike will not start, will turn over, but will not start
*) Will idle but dies when you apply throttle.


Tests
*) Make sure it is not a gas tank vacuum issue, try to start your bike with the gas cap off (If no continue)
*) Have you checked your fuel is on, the fuel filter &main line into your carburetor? (If yes continue)
*) Are you getting consistent spark from your plug? (If yes continue)
*) Place your hand over your carburetor while attempting to start the engine. You should feel strong suction on your hand, (If not continue)
*) Replace intake boot


Replacement at a garage will run you just under $170, 2 hours labor + part, the part is about $10.00 retail and very easy to replace. Following the Service Manual instructions for checking fuel filter and removing carburetor will get you all the disassembly and reassembly instructions. Be sure you have the boot seated in the grooves correctly, and that the clamps are in the correct grooves and tighten sufficiently.

NOTE: I noticed the smaller issues for about a month before my boot issue got to the point my bike would not start. It has also been suggested that you regularly change the intake boot at least every 2 years.


For resolving the issue:
Yes - but also check your front and rear grounds and battery connections. doing the boot is simple:


To replace the "Boot" (Manifold-Carb Coupler),you need to loosen both sides of the airbox first....then you can pull the airbox with the carb attached - a little bit away -so THEN you can pop out the Boot ! Ok- on the left side of the
airbox lower down- you locate and remove the TWO bolts that hold the airbox to the triangular bracket that bolts to the block- But DO NOT remove that Third Bolt that holds the bracket to the engine block- that one remains intact ! Then
on the right side of the airbox, remove the one bolt that goes thru that small metal tab on the underside of the airbox- that attaches it to the engine block..


after that- the box and carb are free to move enough to safely pop off the intake boot (manifold connector) and replace with a NEW one. Now time to button it back up. When you're done snugging up the boot clamps(don't overtighten and
shread the rubber!) you Then use "Blue" loctite on the CLEANED threads on the lower right side bolt and tighten snugly (the Torque is 10-12 ft lbs)-don't strip the aluminum threads in the block. On the left side, the bolts insert
into a brass(threaded) insert into the airbox, just use ONE drop of (low strength)"Purple" loctite on THOSE cleaned threads, and snug them up(Torque is 3-5 ft lbs)- but don't strip by over tightening. And thats all there IS to it!



Clutch Diode Flip link:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buell/messages/201 64/55319.html

 

[ghostedrider]

sCREAMIN’ EAGLE

ADJUSTABLE IGNITION SYSTEM

This ignition system allows the Sportster rider to tune the engine’s ignition with 10 different curves to maximise performance for stock or modified engines. Allows rev limit adjustability in 100 RPM increments.
Module connects to existing wiring harness and contains an LED to easily static-time the engine during installation. For race application only.

32942-02 Fits ’98-later XL models
(except XL1200 Sport).

**Also fits 00 and later Blast models (written on the package)**
It also has would appears to be a manufacturers packaging date of 05/06/02

I went my local Harley dealership (Privateers) and they looked up the part #.
It came back as a discontinued item that retailed for $370.



================================================== ================================================== ===================



For technical information and discussion of Buell P3 BLAST! Engine Carburation and fuel delivery systems and their repair/maintenance/upgrades.

Manafold Coupling Part Number# 27443-00Y (DAS BOOT!)

Stock Jetting
2000 - 2001 42/165
2002 - 2008 42/170

For exhausts that are aftermarket - 45 or 48 primary
175 Main

For the Kerker - 45 primary, & 165 to 170 main (until you cut the crossover tube off, run directly from the header the can of your choice - instant top performing system - then you would run the 45/48 primary, & 175 main)

WB/Force/ & any true performance exhaust with a min. of 1 3/4" od header in combination w/low to no restriction exhaust can:
45/46 primary & 175 Main & shim needle 0.050"

Note 1) 180 main may be a little rich for some exhausts.
Note 2) if live and dwell above 5000 ft - 45 primary
170 main
Final Jetting notes:
Actually a lot of my jetting knowledge is from my various dynos and my observations - hardly a rush - over a year to decide I was still running pretty lean over - all.

My recommendation these days would be:

Stock - 45/170

Exhaust change only - 45/175

Exhaust and intake - 48/175 or 180

All at sea level - at above 5000ft. I would have a different answer.

I'd also recommend an Irridium plug - especially the racing - for a more complete burn - you'll instantly notice the difference.



Carefully remove plug over idle mixture screw (drill it out carefully) and reset idle mixture screw to 2 1/2 turns from full in or for best idle speed. If best idle is more than 3 turns out, switch to a 48 pilot jet and re-adjust idle screw for optimum idle.

Shim the needle a little higher (~0.05".

The best course is to then to run your bike on a dyno equiped with a wide band oxygen sensor (air/fuel meter). Optimum safe high performance WOT A/F ratio is between 12.5 and 13.5. Anything over 14.5 is excessively lean and risks stressing/overheating your combustion chamber.

Please Note: You cannot run an aftermarket intake (even the Buell Pro Series) without bracing the carb in some fashion - Most recomend Matching carb springs for cars (loop on one side, spring middle, flat length on the other end) - one each side of the carb to the head (yes - 2 holes would need to be drilled). Other brackets have also been run - usually resulting in premature intake boot failure. The spring on the left gets looped on the hard vacuum line off the carb and the flat side of the spring is fed through a hole drilled on the bottom left head fin facing the carb. The right spring gets looped over the carb body pertubrence (where the Sporster accelerator pump would go)sticking out the right side - the loop fits over very snuggly, but it does fit and again fit flat side of spring through hole drilled in bottom fin of head and secure. You want spring tightness to be firm resisting pressure when you try to pull the carb from the boot - clamps loose for this test of course. Make sure clamps, including airfilter cover clamp are tight.

The carb springs are a common item used to sinc carbs in cars - come 2 in a package - a loop on one side and flat wire on the other - the loops going over the top of the secondary jet housing (note a Blast does not have a secondary jetting, however, it still has the housing for such - you can see it clearly in the middle picture) -just fits- and the flat wire side goes in a little hole you drill on the bottom corner of the bottom head cooling fin facing the carb, the other loop going over the vacuum side plugged line to the opposite corner where the other hole is drilled. Loop the flat wire side through the holes and secure with a light equal tension on both sides holding carb securely to boot.
This link gives the best pictures - took me a while to find -
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/cgibin/discus/show .cgi?tpc=20164&post=1040453#POST1040453
EZ
Stack: is from American Sport Bike - for an 2000 M2 - tall velocity stack -
filter:

Just ordered some special order stack filters - 20 bucks and change per filter - you'll need a 3 1/2" hose clamp - outerwears.com - the new Outer Wears Stack filter outerwears.com - the new part number is - " 12-1267-01 Black" - the old style didn't flow enough it seems - FILTERS PARTICULATE TO 0.01" IN SIZE - WAY SMALLER THAN most HUMAN EYEs CAN SEE - the new prototypes allow twice as much flow while still doing a respectable job filtering. Install the stack like you would the stock venturi using the same specks, torque and new gasket.


More Carb hotrodding tips!
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...2/124119.ht ml?
Carb leak check and popping simptoms check:
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...tml?1127525 451




Other helpfull websites:

http://www.bcrider.com/blast1.html

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm

With the above and the 2001 Archive - doing your own jetting with 12 bucks worth of jets (45/175) should be a breeze - just remember - bring the float bowl straight down, do not touch the float, change the jets quickly and correctly so float does not mis adjust itself, and then bring the float bowl straight up and secure - your done - enjoy!

Homemade Intakes
Tony/Rays
http://www.badweatherbikers.com/buel...tml?1000537 352


EZ's Two: American Sport Bike Torque Stack and OuterWears Stack filter or the Pro-series and Stack filter - both are braced with springs.


Re-setting the TPS at home:

My method is very sinmple and works for any bike with tps. Disconnect the battery negative lead. Before I remove the carb I check, note and mark throttle plate and shaft location. A small scribe mark on body and shaft is all you need. Then do the same for the tps hold down. Scribe the hold down and body. Now you can clean and repair carb and put everything back to the factory location. The tps is basically a rheostat. It varies current according to the throttle shaft position using the tps as a locator. The magic box used by h-d merely duplicates voltage ranges of the cpu. If You prefer to check the actual voltage you can use a low voltage step down rheostat switch and multimeter. Set the range according to that put out by the cpu and follow the manual for the voltage you need to read. Another method is to check the resistance across the wireing harness from the tps .Reset the tps to the reading you get when you put everything back together.


Here are the Actual Harley part #'s for those jets :

45 pilot = #27170-89

175 main = #27090-89

#48 low speed PN 27165-90 (or DS289320)


Pilot Jet (Slow Jet) .................................................. .................................

Part Number Jet Size

27165-90.........48........Perfect

27170-89.........45........Good/perfect for Hi comp piston

27171-89.........42........Lean

27281-92.........40........Very Lean

27117-88.........35........Too LEAN





Main Jet (High Speed) '''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''''' ''''''''

Part Number Jet Size

27105-88..........200........Way Rich

27185-90..........185........Damn Rich

27114-88..........180........Rich

27090-89..........175........Perfect

27115-88..........170........Stock

27116-88..........165........Stock lean

27152-89..........160........Stock too lean,unless using 2ndary jetting (a Dial A Jet carb kit by Thunder Products, added a secondary Sportster jet, or other fuel outlet supliment)

27154-89..........155........Stock too lean,unless using 2ndary jetting (a Dial A Jet carb kit by Thunder Products, added a secondary Sportster jet, or other fuel outlet supliment)




JET NEEDLE (NOKK) PN 27241-95 to replace OEM JET NEEDLE PN 27637-00Y
The carb jetting is not all that hard to do, so just do it! Your Blast will thank you for it. Here is a link on modifying the CV carb:

http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/hd_cv_mods.htm

The needle shims are probably the most difficult thing to find, you may have to do some rummaging around at a hardware store, I just used some small crimp on eye connections with the crimp cut off, and the remaining washer smoothed out. It came out to .047, close enough.

The most difficult proceedure is getting the diaphragm seated in the groove properly. I seat the diaphragm in the back side of the groove cut into the carb and start gently pushing down with the cover, then I take a 6 inch steel rule(Because its flat)and push the remaining diaphragm into the groove from the front side of the carb, when you get it right, the cover sort of slips into place.

At all costs avoid using too much downward pressure, or just run the screws into the cover as you will pinch the diaphragm and the carb will not work right. If you pinch and puncture the diaphragm you will need to buy a new slide assembly and they go in the $50+ range. Gentle pressure, don't get in a hurry and you will fast become an expert at it.

A product called "Sea Foam" has been recomended for carb cleaning from so many independant sources that I figured I'd post it for your usage as well.




Carefull not to touch float, rejet quickly to protect float from mis adjusting self while hanging, be prepared to replace brass bowl screws with new ones - preferably allen heads, be prepared to drill out idle mixture screw plug (pluged by factory for EPA reasons) to get at idle mixture screw.
A good link on the topic:
http://www.trak-tek.com/products/air...rbJetting.h tml


8. Perform float level check as follows: a. Place carburetor on a clean flat surface with the intake manifold side down. See A of Figure 4-20.

b. Tilt the carburetor 15° to 20° in a counter-clockwise
direction until float comes to rest. See B of Figure 4-20.

NOTE
The measurements will be incorrect if the carburetor is tilted
less than 15 ° or more than 20 °.

c. Using a dial vernier caliper or dial caliper depth gauge, measure the distance from the face of the carburetor flange to the outboard edge of the float.
Be careful not to push on float while measuring.

d. If the measurement is between 0.413 inch and 0.453 inch (10.49 -11.51 mm), then the float level is
within specification. Proceed to step 9.


e. If the float level is not within specification, remove the float, and referencing the table below, carefully bend the tab slightly to adjust the float level. For
example, to increase the float measurement, bend the tab toward the carburetor body. This will have the affect of decreasing the amount of gas in the
float bowl after assembly.


f. Install float and check float level again. Repeat procedure
as necessary until float level is within specification.


Recommended jetting for better performance out of a stock Blast: 45/170, shim needle .05" (aprox. 2 brass #4 machined washers), air screw at 2 2/3rds out from light bottom - of course your gas mileage will be less - the first step into the dark side!

GT - JBOTDS! EZ


Note: Laura G. Ran a RamFlo 200 intake with spring support and is very happy with it and its performance in the LSR Salt - and its non interference with her knee - nice.
EZ
Yes, however, the gent is talking about a Dyno Jet Kit - their jets are numbered differently from the Kehin stock numbers.

Here is my usual carb work steps:Loosen Das boot, carefully remove float bowl and replace jets,put bowl back on, drill out Idle Mixture screw plug - go only 1/8th of an inch in with drill bit - its just solder blocking so careful check first also because plug has been known to fall out - turn in till bottomed - gently, then turn 2 2/3 turns out,look at the top of your carb - you'll see 4 screws - the right front corner screw (facing the front of the bike from the seat area)is also held in place with a bracket that is attached to the side of the carb - this screw is a real biatch - try penertrating oil and a #3 philips - what ever feels tightest, if nothing works, then take a dremel and a cutoff wheel and turn that puppy into a flat head screw, it will come out then, do not remove though just loosen, and reuse the screw(even if modified to loosen) - the screw on the side of the carb needs to be loosened enough to shift the bracket out of the way to remove the top of the carb off - do that carefully so you don't loose the spring that sits on a spacer that sits on the needle, pull the needle out add the 2 washers to the needle and put it back in(install washers/shims), reasemble rest and carefully put the lid back on so the diaphram doesn't tear, don't forget to tighten that side screw also. Carb done.





================================================== ================================================== ===================


For technical information and discussion of Buell P3 BLAST! Rider Ergonomics - Seats, Footpegs, Controls and Grips as well as their repair/maintenance/upgrades.

Universal Pegs: (foot pegs that just need a hole for the bolt to go through parallel the peg - screwing into the peg) - LHS - RC51, R6(99-05), F4, F4i. BOTH SIDES: EX500, GS500, F2, F3, NT650, MILLE/R, FACTORY/R, 750/900SS (91-98)
CFMotorsports - 06-0300 - Standard Footpeg (BH bolt)
The above is usefull info when making your own rearsets or replacing the factory units which would then be just a mater of removing, drilling a hole and mounting.

Hand Guard Installation using OEM Parts:

I wasn't sure were to put it but, the part numbers for the
CRG ROLL-A-CLICK ADJUSTABLE LEVERS are

AN-621 Clutch all buells except S2 and 1125
No other cross references listed.

AN-521 Brake for Tube and Blast (not XB)

Also found on KAWASAKI ZX6 ‘98-‘04, ZX6R '03, ZX6RR '03-'04,ZX10RR '04-'05,ZX12R '04-'05, SUZUKI GSXR600 ‘97-‘03,GSXR750 ‘96-‘03,GSXR1000 ‘01-‘04, GSXR1300 Hayabusa '99-'07, SV 650 '99-'07,SV 1000 '03-'07, TL-R '98-'03, TL-S '97-'01
TRIUMPH Daytona 955i '04-'06, Speed Triple '04'-06 , YAMAHA R6 '99-'02, R6S '03-'04, FZS 1 '01-'05 (Taken from CRG application guide. For use as X-ref)


Erik O's instructions for installing the Buell Blast Windshield:
These are what I wrote up when I sold mine. I may have pictures if you need them, but the installation is very simple.

Tools needed:
3/16 Allen wrench
1/8 Allen wrench
3/32 Allen wrench
7/16" or 11mm wrench

Remove 4 bolts holding the flyscreen on. Save 2 bolts you will need them for the windshield.

Remove the 2 bolts holding the headlight bracket on (early Blasts use bolts only, later Blasts use bolts and nuts-save the nuts). Do not remove bracket.
Using supplied bolts and the nuts that came off the headlight bracket, bolt the windshield bracket on with the swivel piece up and pointed forwards. Do one side at a time otherwise headlight assembly may slip.

Loosely install the 2 flyscreen bolts through windshield into the 2 bottom flyscreen holes in the bracket. Be careful not to let the windshield fall forward as it could suffer damage.
Install the 2 supplied bolts and rubber grommets in the top 2 windshield holes. Each top windshield bolt should use 2 grommets.
Tighten down the 4 bolts.

If your Blast has been dropped the lower windshield holes may not line up exactly with holes in the flyscreen bracket. but they are easily bent to the correct position.

Do Not bolt the windshield on without using grommets on the windshield bolts, cracking may result.

 

[ghostedrider]

An aftermarket belt is available now for the Blast. I do not know if its comparable to the "lifetime" belts now stock on other models.

It is listed as a 1" belt (which it isnt), but they also list 20mm belts (which it is) for other HD models
From the Drag Specialties catalogue:

REAR DRIVE BELTS

•Carbon fiber reinforced

Goodyear engineered Falcon SPC™ belts offer up to 33 percent more tensile strength than conventional aramid reinforced belts

•High-temperature rubber compound offers excellent flex and long service life
•Fabric reinforced belt tooth surfaces improve wear resistance
•Durable material construction is designed to withstand belt-penetrating debris without breaking

NOTE: No warranty claims are made or implied.

PART # DESCRIPTION SUG. RETAIL

1 1/2” BELTS

1204-0035 125-tooth belt for custom applications $189.95

1204-0037 126-tooth belt for 80-86 FX, 82-84 FLH (domestic); repl. OEM #40003-79 189.95

1204-0039 127-tooth belt for 89-92 FXST, FLST (international); repl OEM #40010-89 174.95

1204-0041 128-tooth belt for 93 FXST, FLST (domestic), 91-93 FXD, FXDWG (international); repl. OEM #40012-90 189.95

1204-0043 130-tooth belt for95-99 FXST, FLST (domestic), 94 FXST, FLST, 94-95 FXD, FXDWG (Swiss); repl. OEM #40017-94 174.95

1204-0046 132-tooth belt for 86-92, 94 FXST, FLST (domestic), 89-93 FLT, FXR (international); repl. OEM #40023-86 189.95

1204-0050 133-tooth belt for 91-01 FXD, FXDWG (domestic), 94-95 FLT (Swiss); repl. OEM #40015-90 199.95

1204-0054 135-tooth belt for custom applications 174.95

1204-0058 136-tooth belt for 85-96 FLT, FLHT, 85-94 FXR (domestic); repl. OEM #40001-85 189.95

1204-0062 139-tooth belt for 97-03 FLT, FLHT, FLHR, FLTR (domestic); repl. OEM #40024-97 199.95


1 1/8” BELTS

1204-0036 125-tooth belt for custom applications 169.95

1204-0038 126-tooth belt for custom applications 169.95

1204-0040 127-tooth belt for custom applications 169.95

1204-0042 128-tooth belt for 91-03 XL, 94-02 Buell (except Blast) (domestic/international); repl OEM #40022-91 169.95

1204-0044 130-tooth belt for 07-09 FXD, FXDWG (Japan); repl. OEM #40048-07 169.95

1204-0047 132-tooth belt for 06 FXD, FXDWG (international), repl. OEM #40594-06 199.95

1204-0051 133-tooth belt for 00-06 FXD/T. 02-06 FXD/FXDWG (domestic); repl. OEM #40015-00 169.95

1204-0055 135-tooth belt for 00-06 FLST, 00-05 FXST (domestic/international); repl OEM #40307-00 174.95

1204-0059 136-tooth belt for 04-06 XL 883 (domestic/international); repl. OEM #40570-04 169.95

1204-0063 139-tooth belt for04-06 FLHT, FLHR, FLTR (domestic/international); repl. OEM #40024-04 199.95



1” BELTS


1204-0045 130-tooth belt for custom applications 149.95

1204-0048 132-tooth belt for custom applications 199.95

1204-0052 133-tooth belt for 07-09 FLST/C/N, FLSTSC, FXSTD, FXCW/C (domestic/international); repl. OEM #40058-07 199.95

1204-0056 135-tooth belt for custom applications 149.95

1204-0060 136-tooth belt for 07-09 XL 883 (domestic/international); repl. OEM #40371-07 169.95

1204-0060 136-tooth belt for 07 FLHT, FLHR, FLHX, FLTR (Japan); repl. OEM #40056-07 169.95

1204-0061 137-tooth belt for 07-08 FLHT/R/X, FLTR (domestic); repl. OEM #40024-07 169.95

1204-0061 137-tooth belt for 07-09 XL 1200 (domestic/international); repl. OEM #40591-07 169.95

1204-0064 139-tooth belt for 01-08 Buell Blast (domestic); repl. OEM #G0500.01A7 199.95



20MM BELTS


1204-0049 132-tooth belt for 07-09 FXST, FLST, FXCW (Japan); repl. OEM #40074-07 199.95

1204-0053 133-tooth belt for 07-09 FXST/B/C. FLSTF, FLSTSB (domestic/international); repl. OEM #40073-07 199.95

1204-0057 135-tooth belt for 06 FXST (domestic/international); repl. OEM 40655-06 169.95


================================================== ================================================== ====================




Roadside Reference:
Total time < 1 hour. Most of which was spent making sure the bike
was supported for wheel removal.

The combination of 2x4 and a cement patio block to go under the side stand and a el-cheap-o hydraulic jack under the right passenger peg mount. Two people required to steady while jacking to lift rear
wheel. Loosen axle lock nut to finger tight prior to lifting. Remove axle nut, lockwasher and washer. Slide axle to the left about half way. Turn while pulling makes it easier. Don't pull it over on yourself. Remove right side large spacer. One person support rim
while other person removes axle.

Pull axle all way out. Remove left short spacer. Slide caliper off rotor. Put something to keep pads spread out. (carpenter shims work great) Allow wheel to go forward and remove belt. Roll wheel out to the rear, you'll have to tilt to
clear lower fender.

With a long punch or similar knock out bad bearing by hitting inner race from opposite side. Slide inner spacer out then knock out other bearing by hitting on inner race from opposite side.

Knocking in new bearings tap ONLY the outter race and keep it as even as possible. Best to use a socket or similar object that is just slightly smaller than the OD of outter bearing race. You can tell it
is fully seated because the sound will change as you are tapping it in. Flip the wheel over and INSTALL the inner spacer then tap in the other bearing.

The axle can be installed through the bearings and inner spacer to make sure it is aligned while you are installing last bearing. Make sure you have not damaged the grease seals during installation. Make sure the inner race spins without a grinding or a
lumpy feeling. Re-install in the bike by reverse procedure. Ensure the caliper locking lug engages the tab on swingarm. Pump up the rear brake prior to going for a test ride. There ya have it.

Pictures in the Photo section. The bearing numbers are E6204, Out of stock at both HD dealers locally. Napa auto parts had some for $22 each. Honda shop had for $10 each Local Honda dealer has a double sealed bearing $10 each

#96150-62040-10
Honda PN: 96150-62040-10

6204 is the basic bearing number that can be had at just about any
good industrial bearing supplier.

NAPA (the OEM 6204-2rs1 bearing is on the right and the NAPA 6204-2rsj)

store. Say, gimme a 6204 bearing with a grease seal on both sides. They say no problem, got two of them in stock. $22 each. I say "OUCH
Make sure you get one with grease seals on both sides.

I think I cold accomplish this alongside the road with a BFR (rock) and a metal rod for driving out bearing. Socket extension or 8" piece
of rebar.


================================================== ================================================== ===============



BEARINGS === must have a rubber seal on each side of bearing

rear

HD -- (E0041T) -new #

Honda # (96150 - 62040 - 10) ensure double seals - 1 on each side

NAPA Part number P62042RJS stock # P6204-2RJSJ
upc: 10777962269437 @9.99 is the correct numbers

The SKF #s are as follows: (rear) 6204-2RS JEM,



FRONT ++++++

HD - (E0001T)

(front) 62203-2RS1.





================================================== ================================================== ==

BREAKS



6800, 6799 - 00-09 BLAST Front Nissin Caliper Brake Pads
00-09 Blast Front Brake Pads. #6800 Ferodo CP911 for maximum braking peformance, Good even for Street application due to high heat saturation of Buell Single Disc system. #6799 Ferodo Semi-metallics pads are more economical and easy on the disc.

#6800 00-07 Brake Pads Front Ferodo CP911 Blast

#6799 01-07 Brake Pads Front Ferodo S.S. Blast


5431, 5431S, 5433, 6109, 5434 - 98-10 Rear Nissin Caliper Brake Pads

Brake pads for 98-10 Nissin Single Piston rear Caliper used on ALL XB and tube frame Buells since 98. #6109 Lyndall Gold+ carbon/Kevlar Semi-metallics give good progressive feel and softer attack. #5431S Ferodo, 5434 Galfer or 5433HH sintered pads (same type as OEM pads) will give greater bite but less progressive feel.
#5433 EBC Black or #5431 Ferodo Platinum semi-metallics work fine and are more economical. (Will not fit the 1125 series.)

#5431S Brake Pads, Rear, Ferodo Sintered

#5434 Brake Pads, Rear, Galfer Sintered

#5431 Brake Pads, Rear, Ferodo Platinum

#6109 Brake Pads, Rear, Lyndall Gold+ Carbon Kevlar

#5433 Brake Pads, Rear, EBC Black

#5433HH Brake Pads, Rear, EBC HH



#5431S Brake Pads, Rear, Ferodo Sintered - $32.95

#5434 Brake Pads, Rear, Galfer Sintered - $35.54

#5431 Brake Pads, Rear, Ferodo Platinum - $32.95

#6109 Brake Pads, Rear, Lyndall Gold+ Carbon Kevlar - $55.00

#5433 Brake Pads, Rear, EBC Black - $25.95

#5433HH Brake Pads, Rear, EBC HH - $36.95


16152 - Crush Washer, Copper, For 10mm Banjo Bolt
10mm Copper Crush washers for brake line fittings. Once a copper crush washer has been used, it is work hardened and scored and will no longer properly hold pressure. Crush washers should be replaced any time the banjo bolt is loosened.

Price:$0.95


================================================== =====================================



17309, 17308 - Turn Signals, OEM, XB
XB OEM Turn Signals. The Left Front is the same as the Right Rear, and Right Front is the same as the Left Rear, on all Firebolt models. The front turn signals on other models (X1, XB-S Lightning, XB12SS Lightning Long, and Ulysses models) have longer stalks. They look less bug like if replaced with these, though they might not technically meet separation requirements in some vehicle codes.

Note: These look just like X1/Blast turn signals, but have 8mm stalks instead of 10mm stalks. They CAN be used on X1s and Blasts without any problems, but the stud will be smaller than the hole it goes into.

Price: $14.40


==============================================

17059 - Nut, Flywheel Output Shaft
95-07 Tube frame and XB models. This nut fits the main flywheel output shaft and holds the rotor and primary drive sprocket on. This nut likes to come loose, not a bad idea to replaced it every few removal cycles. Be sure to clean the threads thoroughly, use plenty of red loctite, and torque it right using the primary locking bar, or you may be back into the primary searching for a strange knocking sound. Note: The service manual USED to specify 190 ft-lbs for this nut. A service bulletin has changed this to 240 ft-lbs.

Price: $4.00

17121 - Key, Pinion Gear/Oil Pump drive, 00-07 models
Key, Pinion Gear/Oil Pump drive, 00-07 tube frame and XB models. Will not fit pre-2000 tuber frame models. 2000+ key is shown on left, pre-2000 key shown on right

17129 - Gasket, Cam cover, 00-07 XB and BLAST
Gasket, Cam cover, 00-07 XB and BLAST. Note: Removal of the cam cover requires rocker box removal, call before removing this cover if you have any questions.

Price:$13.00

17101 - 03-10 Gasket, Clutch Cover, XB series
03-10 Gasket, Clutch Cover, XB series. You can often reuse these gaskets a few times, but then they should be replaced.

Price:$4.50

17520 - Intake Manifold Coupler Boot, Blast
2000-2010 Blast Intake Manifold Coupler Boot. When folks use aftermarket air cleaner setups on a Blast (i.e., see 5637), this part takes a beating. Cracked boots should be replaced ASAP, as intake leaks will cause very lean conditions.

Price:$15.50



5637 - Tall Velocity Stack
Fits the West Tek and Buell Pro Race air cleaners, and any aftermarket cleaner with a 3" thick filter. Note: Does not fit new #A17005 and #A17000 improved race ovals, as the venturi ring feature is now milled into the back plate on the new version race ovals. Though not originally designed for the P3 Blast, many Blast owners use this on the mouth of their carb when removing the airbox by clamping on apod type filter. The Outside Diameter is 3.34 inches.

Price:$20.00

 

[ghostedrider]

the previous posts were saved for my my own use from the old site and badweather , and edited for my ease of use while working on my bike at home.

it is lacking in a lot of areas but is all that i can re contribute to the community , written by the community's..... hopefully it may help some one..

( I apologize for some double data re posted )

I was just trying too get a 1 stop quick reference

 

[ghostedrider]

oops - edited because i goofed up - was trying to post a pdf

 

[RayDog26]

dude I love you..... I been trying to get a copy of this for days now since it went missing..... [up][up][up][up][up][up][up]

 

[Wrinkles]

FNG here...first post and all. My Mrs just bought a '07 blast with 644 miles on it. The seller threw in a NIB Jardine exhaust and K&N filter. I came here looking for advise. This thread sums up everything I could hope to know brilliantly. If I could reach through the tangles interweb and hug you guys I would! Thanks for posting all this info!!! Off to work I go...

 

[sinistersmith]

if i change my rear tire size to the 140/70/16 will i have to do any sort of modifications and will my speedometer be the same and if not how far off

 

[GAXB9R]

Thats great info and I don't even have a blast. Thanks for the donation.[up]

 

[ezblast]

Sinster - no

 

[Stevenc150]

[up] for contributing. [Thread Stickied]

 

[ezblast]

Your welcome!

 

[CanXB]

The link for the 2007 Parts Manual is not working andn I have searched the forum to find it. Anyone have a quick link to it?

 

[ezblast]

Except the year 2000 being the better bike once the pully recall is done, the gaskets changed out, a fork brace applied,changed out to Pirelli tires,new ignition, pro-series oil pump gear, and a new Speedo sensor would make it the better stock - lol - Buell Blast. Better braking and handling, and a top speed of 100mph, the rest of the years are stuck with 96mph.
EZ

 

[exhawgdoctor]

Is there a luggage carrier/rack available for the Blast?

 

[Jodori01]

Where is the plug for the idle mixture screw located with respect to float bowl? Thanks for help. Jeff

 

[ghostedrider]

Where is the plug for the idle mixture screw located with respect to float bowl? Thanks for help. Jeff

here you go - this is the bottom view with the solder plug removed. and then a link to all the info .

badweb carb info

 

[Jodori01]

Thanks, that helps me. I couldnt find a pic or diagram and was looking for the plug on the outside. I just found this site and have been struggling with my Blast and alot of the listed issues here. My bike is an 06 with 18000 miles. Just found a leak at the front right fork too. Thanks for your help.