Brakes Chattering/Clattering after replacing pads and rotors

[brokencycle]

Hi everyone, I just replaced the pads and rotors on my 2005 Lightning XB9SX. I did this because there was some inconsistent braking when lightly braking in the front -- braking wasn't linear.

The pads still had life left, but I went ahead and replaced with EBC Double H brake pads. I also replaced the rotor with one I bought on ebay. Now there is a clatter/clacking noise as it brakes. This seems to happen regardless of speed or strength of braking. There is no noise when not braking

I tried holding the brake in and rocking the bike back and forth, but the pads don't appear to move when I do that.

My initial thoughts:
1. Pads are loose or not in all the way.
2. The new rotor is warped.

See attached picture of the rotor and new pads installed. Any thoughts?

 

[Barrett]

A common occurrence with these giant ZTL rotors when replacing with new EBC HH pads. The noise you described is pad-rotor-caliper related. A discernible "clunk" in the front end after performing the work you described is always faulty wheel bearings or steering neck bearings.
If you hadn't during your work, check and perform the following to alleviate the noise:
1-Caliper pistons not fully retracting. If suspected, will walk you thru proper procedure to address this.
2-Pads not fully bedded in to new rotor. Go to EBC website or google "EBC motorcycle brake pad bed-in procedure". Their site has simple explicit instructions to perform same.
3-Rotor "square washers"...rotor bushings....rotor attachment bolts worn beyond specs. Extremely unusual but check all.
4-Rotor failing to "float". Check rotor pressure springs and locator holes in rim. Holes must be pristine and springs must measure within spec length.
5-Rotor manufacturing defect re lateral run-out. Lift front...remove caliper...spin and check rotor laterally.
6-Caliper pad slider pins severely worn OR not lubed prior to installation of new pads causing pads to bind up on the pins.
7-Check the rotor bushing holes which are stamped into the rotor during the manufacturing process. If just a tad too tight, the rotor won't float. If so, gently massage each hole with appropriate file or dremel tool. Be gentle and deliberate if doing this.
NOTE: When I perform this work I always put a very LIGHT coating of brake caliper/brake parts lube on the caliper pad pins and the lateral surface of each rotor bushing. Helps immensely.
Good luck.

 

[Cooter]

All of that is great advise^^^ Do all of that first.

What is the frequency of the "chattering/clacking"? More audible or tactile? Per wheel rotation or much faster? Rotor vent holes can be felt in worn or cheap rotors and not an issue. Noise is a problem.

Note the square washers that locate the rotor are indeed NOT square (the rounded edges face the center). The cone washers need to be concave towards the bolt head. Even though the SM says change it, IMO the brake hardware may be reused, but TORQUE it properly and in sequence. It matters.

Then BED the pads to the rotor.

It's all in the service manual. RTFM:
http://buellmods.com/#TabbedContent



details:
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?48151-EBR-Racing-front-rotor-install-instructions

 

[34nineteen]

All of that is great advise^^^ Do all of that first.

What is the frequency of the "chattering/clacking"? More audible or tactile? Per wheel rotation or much faster? Rotor vent holes can be felt in worn or cheap rotors and not an issue. Noise is a problem.

Note the square washers that locate the rotor are indeed NOT square (the rounded edges face the center). The cone washers need to be concave towards the bolt head. Even though the SM says change it, IMO the brake hardware may be reused, but TORQUE it properly and in sequence. It matters.

Then BED the pads to the rotor.

It's all in the service manual. RTFM:
http://buellmods.com/#TabbedContent

View attachment 16122

details:
https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?48151-EBR-Racing-front-rotor-install-instructions

or buy the EBR rotor mounting hardware to remove all float from the rotor and improve heat dissipation.

https://dieselmoto.com/products/front-rotor-installation-kit

 

[brokencycle]

Thanks guys. It is 100% audible and no tactile. I'll check the washers because I think that could easily be it: I didn't pay attention to the rounded edge. Then I'll lubricate everything and try to put a few miles on to see if it improves.

 

[Cooter]

You said you just replaced the pads. Is the pad side facing the rotor? Seems silly, but I have personally repaired several sets of calipers with the backing plates installed against the rotor.

 

[34nineteen]

You said you just replaced the pads. Is the pad side facing the rotor? Seems silly, but I have personally repaired several sets of calipers with the backing plates installed against the rotor.

If you install the pads the other way, they wear out too quickly. Duh.

 

[Barrett]

Sir: Steps to follow.
#9 in schematic is simple spacer washer. It has no distinct orientation.
#8 in schematic is the drive bushing. It provides correct lateral positioning of the rotor to the rim. It's correct orientation is self-explanatory upon examination of it.....the rounded edge faces towards wheel center and it's slightly countersunk surface faces outward. Got that?
Provided link below details all of this. A few drops of BLUE loctite on each rotor bolt thread recommended. Do NOT use RED loctite. Factory used a proprietary PINK loctite that had the characteristics of the blue stuff. Tighten rotor bolts in a star pattern and torque to recommended specs.
Not sure why, but the schematic above that you were provided, is for EBR rotor hardware. Completely different animal.

https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1074786/Buell-Xb-2008-Series.html?page=90

 

[njloco]

I love this guy ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^, and you can have my last beer !

 

[Cooter]

Apologies for any confusion. To stay on point, my intent was to give this link to RTFM. It has pictures.

And to LINK a thread that shows orientation of that square washer with even more detailed instructions and up-to-date torque specs
Pics from that thread:


The square washers are identical, and are positioned identically, no matter which hardware kit you have on your bike. I was hoping not to stray off point and have to spoon feed every "Don't forget it's righty tighty!" instruction, but I forget how this place is sometimes:calm:

Do those square washers slide smoothly on the bolt shoulder? If the hardware has been overtorqued (even once), the shoulder of the rotor bolt can mushroom and bind on those square washers. Replace the bolts, or chuck the threads in a drill and use emory cloth to sand the lip back down, not too much! The square washer should fit smoothly without play or binding on that shoulder.

 

[34nineteen]

To stay on point

who are you?

 

[Cooter]

squirrel!