Broken Exhaust stud - M2 Cyclone

[matt87951]

So, I just bought a 2002 M2L and it has a broken exhaust stud on the front cylinder, and the rear exhaust bracket is broken. It has the V&H exhaust installed currently (Also came with the stock exhaust as well, and all install hardware I believe).

What should I do to fix the exhaust stud. I've seen a lot of different information on how to fix it. Several have said to just use an easy-out, other just drill and re-tap. Just wondering what might be the best method. Also, would you recommend replacing all the exhaust studs at the same time? I would hate to break another while trying to tighten everything back up.

Was thinking of just getting the exhaust bracket welded, as I have a bad feeling I can't buy a replacement from V&H anymore, right?

Here is a picture of it in the garage:

Thanks!
-Matt

 

[Timeless]

You're probably better off not using an ez-out. It might work to get the stud out, but it could very well break inside the stud making your problem worse.

Your best bet is to buy a drill plate or borrow one and drill the stud out, clean the threads and put a new stud in.

I currently have a broken stud on my firebolt that I'm going to be drilling out. You're welcome to borrow the drill plate tool I bought when I'm done.

 

[matt87951]

Thanks, that's what I'll end up doing then. The plate it stupid expensive, but I may end up getting one of my own. Where are you at though? I may take you up on borrowing it.

Would you replace all the studs, to make sure another one doesn't break while putting it back together (and risk breaking more studs while trying to remove them)?

Thanks,
-Matt

 

[nikfleisch]

Such a damn common problem among buells. Good luck with the fix!

 

[crawfo]

Check on ebay for exhaust stud jigs to drill the stud out. Im pretty sure they arn't that expensive. Plus if you have Buell friends you can make sum money renting that bad boy out

 

[matt87951]

Check on ebay for exhaust stud jigs to drill the stud out. Im pretty sure they arn't that expensive. Plus if you have Buell friends you can make sum money renting that bad boy out

This is what I found on eBay: Exhaust Stud Jig on eBay

This is the one from ASB: ASB Jig

Anyone had any experience with either? The one on eBay is obviously about $30 cheaper than the one on ASB. Anyone had any experience with either of these? I assume they are all pretty much the same, as it's a pretty basic tool. Will I also need a tap and die set as well to re-thread the hole after drilling it out? Any particular brand better than another, or is a cheap set from somewhere like Harbor Freight fine?

Thanks!
-Matt

 

[Timeless]

I have the one from ebay. I have not used it yet.

When you drill the stud out, you're drilling out the minor diameter of the stud, the "main body." This leaves the threads in the head.

You won't actually be re-tapping the thread, you'll just run the tap through to remove the old threads from the broken stud.

 

[matt87951]

Got it. Anyone have a how-to to remove the header on an M2? I don't want to pull the motor, nor do I really have the proper equipment to do so. Is it possible to remove the header with the motor still on the bike? I am actually on vacation all week, so I want to at least have the header removed by the time I have the jig to drill the stud out.

Should give me a good chance to polish the header while it's off.

Thanks!
-Matt

 

[matt87951]

Got the header off no problem, and was able to drill out the stud easily using the jig from eBay. I am stuck on tapping the threads - any ideas how to get it started? Not sure if the tap and die set I have just sucks or if it's insanely difficult to get them started on these bikes. I've tapped and chased threads plenty of times before on my cars, and none have been this difficult. Any ideas what I might be doing wrong, or if the tap and die set is just trash?

Thanks,
-Matt

 

[crawfo]

Is the hole reamed out to the proper size for the tap? I have a chart somewhere that shows the proper sizing for hole to thread size.

 

[matt87951]

I used the jig with the bit it came with, according to the directions in the packaging I am using the correct tools. The drill bit is a 1/4" and the tap is 5/16"-18.

Sound correct?

-Matt

 

[matt87951]

According to a some charts, it looks like I should actually be using a "Size F" drill bit for a 5/16"-18 tap. Any ideas where to get that drill bit by itself? I'm thinking of just going to Home Depot and buying this tap and drill set. Do you think this will work?

I am assuming that will have the proper drill size for what I need, probably the "Size F" that is documented on all the tap and drill set charts. Unfortunately there isn't much documentation on what sizes are there. I guess I'll see once I take a look at Home Depot.

-Matt

 

[crawfo]

You would have better luck finding specialty bits at fastenal. A size "F" is probably a specialty bit measured in 32nds. Just a guess, but 1/16 sounds right for course threads

 

[matt87951]

Got the header back on successfully, it was definitely a pain in the butt to get the hole re-tapped.

What normally is wrong, when an Vance & Hines SSR2 pipe rattles when shaken? I don't really want to drill out all the rivets just to "see" what is wrong. This is the 2.5 inch version as may be expected. I have read a couple places that the baffles tend to rattle in them, what exactly causes the rattle? Do welds break, or do they just not fit together tightly? The pipe maybe has 3k miles on it or so, I would doubt it already needs a repack, but not sure exactly how long they last. Should I just throw it back together, or pull the pipe apart first?

Thanks,
-Matt

 

[Timeless]

I recently fixed my broken exhaust stud the same way. After I drilled the stud out, I used a small pick and pulled the beginning portion of the left over thread out. This gave me clean threads to get the tap started.

I can't comment on the pipe. Maybe start another thread or google?

 

[crawfo]

Glad you got it done! I would open up that can and see whats wrong. Obviously it doesn't rattle when new so something has changed.