Can't remove primary tensioner bolt?

[Frankiels3]

Hey guys!

I had a bad primary cover, so i decided to replace it.
The problem is I cant get the bolt out of the bottom that serves as a tensioner for the primary chain.
I have the service manual, but it doesnt troubleshoot how to get it out.

Any ideas?

 

[xb12rs]

More info? Is the nut off? Primary cover off? You just loosen the tensioner, pull the cover and then with the cover off you should be able to remove the tensioner.

 

[Frankiels3]

Cover is off.
Nut is off.

Can't get the bolt to turn. There is really no place to grab it.

 

[xb12rs]

If my memory is right it threads out. You put the Allen wrench in the threaded section that goes through the cover and spin it out.

 

[shaylay]

what xb12rs said. the bolt takes an allen wrench at the bottom.

 

[Frankiels3]

LoL
There is a place for a hex wrench on the bottom.
Im an idiot!!

 

[jimijeans]

It takes Two Wrenches to remove the Chain Tensioner.
A Cresent Wrench or your proper Size Combination [box end] then put a Allen Wrench inside the threaded Bolt that the nut is on and hold the Allen Wrench make sure to hold it good.
The Box end then will break loose turning the nut while holding the Allen wrench.
Watch your Fingers so as not to leave skin up on the Threads. TAKE your Time! Back the nut down too the last 4 threads. Then Gently push up just a little on the Allen Wrench .
That will break the O'ring seal and hopefully can be reused. MIGHT want to replace the O'ring with a FACTORY one that is going to be able to take the heat.
A Hardware Store one (o'ring) is not for heat.
There is a O'ring inside or [underneath] the Primary Chain Tensioner inside that keeps the Primary Fluid from leaking through down on the Threads so check that area and be gentle so as not to damage it. You can leave the Part installed till you remove it completely. Make sure to also reinstall it(the Tensioner) the same Exact Way as it was in the old Primary(Transmission) Cover.
Check the Wear on it. If it is worn down a lot then it is better to Replace it now than Pulling all back off later on . The part is Realatively inexpensive. AmsOil 20/50 works well in the Buell Xb's Transmission Redline also works well. I use AmsOil Severe Gear 75/140 a 1/2 Quart & the Other Half of a Quart I use AmsOil 20/60 . 20/50 will work well also.
I work on the Buells almost every day and the heat will really fry the Fluids. I see where many have figured AHHH he is ju7st trying to sell me a bunch of Expensive Stuff I don't need I'll do it myself. Yes Man make cmy day see you in a few miles! Once I remove the Engine and Rebuild the Transmission they start to pay attentio OR it is now fixed and FOR SALE!
I change the Fluids that is in [MY Personal] 2008- XB12R every 5;000miles & no problems at 27'000/miles so far. I do my 2009 Track Buell Differently of course. Now-Your Experience will differ depending on where you live and the way you ride and the Fluids you use. if Using Screaming Eagle then 2'500/miles is best to Change the Fluids. AmsOil in the Engine 20/50 OR 20/60 can last a LITTLE longer say 3'000 to 3'5000/Miles, And so on. Either way Take your time And Enjoy the Learning and Experience with Riding a Buell. Ride Safe. *Jimi

 

[jimijeans]

I really need to either learn how to Spell or maybe I just type too fast. OPPs *Jimi

 

[Frankiels3]

Yep I refreshed the page and saw your answers...

Holy hell.
I need to look a little better

 

[Frankiels3]

@JimiJeans

Very thorough.
I really appreciate it!

 

[jimijeans]

I'm sure with time you will be a good Bueller like the rest of us Die Hards.Yes sometimes I post very long Postings but it is for Anybody that may have a Simular Problem so instead of helping one Bueller It may Help someone Elsewhere. Again Welcome to the Buell Forum.Ride Safe. *Jimi

 

[Frankiels3]

@JimiJeans
I hope so!

Im a huge rookie and its going to take a while lol!