charging issue

[butchcr]

I changed the stator, rotor, voltage reg. on my 1125cr, rode 1k miles and batt. light comes on, rev it up a little it goes out. Rotor is an EBR, Rick's stator and Rick's hot shot voltage regulator. All work done by a certified Buell Tech. I just dont get it. ANY ideas will help. Thinking of putting my OE volt reg back on. Oh yeah, batt was load tested and was fine.

 

[Cooter]

Instead of swearing all the parts are positively (PUUNN) good and installed perfectly by whatever mysterious angel a "certified Buell Tech" is.... and then swapping random used parts as a total guess by yourself...

Lets avoid that frustration, time, and expense, and start with the simplest clues to what could be going on.

How is the charging system behaving? (Theres a voltmeter on your dash board)
Should be 12.5V at rest. Any lower means to charge or replace your battery, I don't care if Pep Boys said its ok or not.
Above 9.6V while cranking. Any lower means to charge or replace your battery, I don't care if Pep Boys said its ok or not.
and between 13.5-14.7V at 2K RPM.

The test should take all of 10 seconds or less to perform. Give us a Clue, Blue!

*also: whats your idle speed?

 

[butchcr]

I changed the stator, rotor, voltage reg. on my 1125cr, rode 1k miles and batt. light comes on, rev it up a little it goes out. Rotor is an EBR, Rick's stator and Rick's hot shot voltage regulator. All work done by a certified Buell Tech. I just dont get it. ANY ideas will help. Thinking of putting my OE volt reg back on. Oh yeah, batt was load tested and was fine.

Idle speed is a little high, 1200rpms what is normal? Dash has 12.5 volts. The day it was acting up it was around 100' out. Put the thing back together yesterday, about 80' out, bike acted normal. At the top where throttle cable adj. is, should i turn them in or out for adj. for the idle speed. going to ride to work and see how she acts.

 

[Cooter]

All DDFI-3 bikes like yours have an Idle Air Controller (IAC) stepper motor to adjust the idle speed via the ECM. You don't adjust it.

The minor adjustment you see at the top of the cable is to get the correct free play at the throttle grip, do NOT use it to adjust idle speed. The procedure is a regular service item, and in the FREE manual you get from Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com

1200RPM is OK. You may try a TPS re-set. Also in the manual. Key on, run switch on, open and close throttle completely three times, key off.

100* ambient shouldn't matter to a bike with a working cooling system. Are you saying it overheated?

I could guess that when its idling AND the cooling fans are on, that big draw may lower battery voltage to the point it turns on the light? Its a guess. Make sure the battery terminals and grounds are clean and tight. Don't be lazy, take them off and clean them. Maybe that helps?

 

[butchcr]

I will do that reset for the idle. Cleaned batt. terminals real well, replaced back on. It all seems to run ok now. I made a mistake in saying 12.5v, at idle I am getting 14.3v. I was going to put some heat sink paste on the volt reg. thinking that it could help?

 

[Cooter]

I was going to put some heat sink paste on the volt reg. thinking that it could help?

It won't hurt. VR's hate heat and they're not well ventilated, tucked away in the 1125's. Ricks makes great stuff, but adding a heatsink or airflow to any of them would be a benefit.

 

[butchcr]

I agree! You have helped me in the past and I really appreciate it, THANKS!!

 

[Cooter]

You're welcome I'm happy to give my opinions! LOL

 

[34nineteen]

The stock VR is supposed to have heat sink paste applied behind the regulator where it attaches to the frame.

When you did all these upgrades, did you check to see if you had the “charging harness” installed? If so, did you remove it?

 

[butchcr]

"Charging harness" was that a recall issue? When I got the bike there was a harness piece installed from a dealer recall I believe. Should i take that out?

 

[Cooter]

Also called the "harley fix" it was a stop-gap measure they installed that would bypass one stator leg to keep the OE stator cooler. Nevermind missing 1/3 of the charging capacity:upset: Ahh Harley, you devilish bastards....

Since the charging system components in your 1125 were upgraded and replaced by your "Certified Buell Tech", the bypass (if you have it) is no longer necessary.

It would be plugged between the stator output (the plug with the 3 yellow wires) and the VR. Should be simple to deduce if its still there or not.

 

[34nineteen]

Also called the "harley fix" it was a stop-gap measure they installed that would bypass one stator leg to keep the OE stator cooler. Nevermind missing 1/3 of the charging capacity:upset: Ahh Harley, you devilish bastards....

Since the charging system components in your 1125 were upgraded and replaced by your "Certified Buell Tech", the bypass (if you have it) is no longer necessary.

It would be plugged between the stator output (the plug with the 3 yellow wires) and the VR. Should be simple to deduce if its still there or not.

Which could explain why the voltage is dropping out from time to time if it was installed still. The ECM supposedly tells the harness when to bypass the one stator leg. So, if it is still in place it could be telling the new setup to shut off that one leg at the wrong time.

I'm nowhere close to being a "Certified Buell Tech" or even a "Buell Tech". In fact, if I showed up at a motorcycle shop looking for a job, they would probably laugh me out of there and call me a "wannabe hack"... and I know about this. The 1125's were pretty trouble free aside from very few little niggles. This is the most well known issue of a (2009-2010) 1125. This would be like a Porsche tech not knowing about the IMS bearing.



http://www.badweatherbikers.com/bue...YSTEM_UPGRADE_PRODUCT_PROGRAM_0507-781668.pdf

 

[lancruza]

"This would be like a Porsche tech not knowing about the IMS bearing. "

Such a brilliant design by those German engineers. What a joke!