you wont need uly cables. The lightning brake cable and clutch cable worked just fine with a little bit of room to move, no reroute necessary.
here is a picture of the rewelded bars to give a 3 inch rise.
if you can see they still have the drilled holes for the controls, although I had to redrill a hole to get it to be where I wanted. it also still has the anti rotation knobs at the end. 3" rise from stock bars. they are slightly longer than stock bars to fit 1125 models, but with this drastic rise you will need that extra length on the firebolt as well, the controls hit the 3 inch plate which gives you a wider grip stance, which in my opinion is more comfortable and easier on your body.
now the issues I had was ok cool 3" rise, will cables work? reroute? will it clear the fairing? how much more comfortable is it really? blah blah blah, could not find out any information on this.
so
dont have this same angle in a before shot but you can def tell they are higher. not with that 3 inch rise I probably have them set up about 2 inches higher and 1 inch closer to me.
the cylinder did hit my fairing, so i have to angle the bars and get my brake lever set up to where i want it, all while avoiding that fairing. it takes time to move it a hair every time but after 3 or 4 times of tightening and untightening the bar I got it to where I feel very comfortable with the angle of the brake lever and it misses my fairing by less than a quarter inch. but it misses! which is great news if you do not want to take a dremel to your fairing which was not an option for me.
the ONLY real issue I had while doing this was that very poorly designed front brake light switch that activates your brake light when you apply the front brake. Its this long black plastic clip that is just in a terrible place and in the end I realized it has to go if you want higher bars. So, I cut that switch off and simply used some L shaped connectors. I had to have the cylinder as far to the left as possible to clear the fairing and the metal pins where hitting the 3"plate. So I simply took some pliers and bent them to the sides, then connected the clips and ta da! it works.
what you need to do this mod.
I used the high rise bars from asb because they come with that extra bit of length for 1125 models. which you need or your grips will be half an inch off the end of the bar. those bars are 225 on asb.
someone who knows how to weld. luckily in my case my friend owed me big time so he welded that 3 inch plate in for free. and it looks flawless.
lighting brake and clutch cables.
L crimp connectors
and thats it. Oh and I have aftermarket levers on which stick out farther than the stock. So.... I cannot make a full left turn, which doesnt matter to me because I never really need to have my bars fully cocked to the left. they do get far enough to lock the handlebars. So i tried with the stock levers and they clear just fine.
if anyone has any questions Id be more than happy to help. I can take more pictures. I havent tried this with stock bars but it may be cheaper if you used stock bars and had your welder weld an extra inch of round bar to the end to make it longer. I know my welder said he could do that. I hope this helps alot of you out, I had a very hard time trying to find a way to get comfortable for a long trip and not completely changing the bike. the very VERY nice thing about this mod is that in 20 minutes you could have your stock bars back on and riding aggressive, or if you are heading out for a trip, in 20 minutes you are sitting comfortable and ready to go.
I just hope this is enough for my trip lol.
here is a picture of the rewelded bars to give a 3 inch rise.
if you can see they still have the drilled holes for the controls, although I had to redrill a hole to get it to be where I wanted. it also still has the anti rotation knobs at the end. 3" rise from stock bars. they are slightly longer than stock bars to fit 1125 models, but with this drastic rise you will need that extra length on the firebolt as well, the controls hit the 3 inch plate which gives you a wider grip stance, which in my opinion is more comfortable and easier on your body.
now the issues I had was ok cool 3" rise, will cables work? reroute? will it clear the fairing? how much more comfortable is it really? blah blah blah, could not find out any information on this.
so
dont have this same angle in a before shot but you can def tell they are higher. not with that 3 inch rise I probably have them set up about 2 inches higher and 1 inch closer to me.
the cylinder did hit my fairing, so i have to angle the bars and get my brake lever set up to where i want it, all while avoiding that fairing. it takes time to move it a hair every time but after 3 or 4 times of tightening and untightening the bar I got it to where I feel very comfortable with the angle of the brake lever and it misses my fairing by less than a quarter inch. but it misses! which is great news if you do not want to take a dremel to your fairing which was not an option for me.
the ONLY real issue I had while doing this was that very poorly designed front brake light switch that activates your brake light when you apply the front brake. Its this long black plastic clip that is just in a terrible place and in the end I realized it has to go if you want higher bars. So, I cut that switch off and simply used some L shaped connectors. I had to have the cylinder as far to the left as possible to clear the fairing and the metal pins where hitting the 3"plate. So I simply took some pliers and bent them to the sides, then connected the clips and ta da! it works.
what you need to do this mod.
I used the high rise bars from asb because they come with that extra bit of length for 1125 models. which you need or your grips will be half an inch off the end of the bar. those bars are 225 on asb.
someone who knows how to weld. luckily in my case my friend owed me big time so he welded that 3 inch plate in for free. and it looks flawless.
lighting brake and clutch cables.
L crimp connectors
and thats it. Oh and I have aftermarket levers on which stick out farther than the stock. So.... I cannot make a full left turn, which doesnt matter to me because I never really need to have my bars fully cocked to the left. they do get far enough to lock the handlebars. So i tried with the stock levers and they clear just fine.
if anyone has any questions Id be more than happy to help. I can take more pictures. I havent tried this with stock bars but it may be cheaper if you used stock bars and had your welder weld an extra inch of round bar to the end to make it longer. I know my welder said he could do that. I hope this helps alot of you out, I had a very hard time trying to find a way to get comfortable for a long trip and not completely changing the bike. the very VERY nice thing about this mod is that in 20 minutes you could have your stock bars back on and riding aggressive, or if you are heading out for a trip, in 20 minutes you are sitting comfortable and ready to go.
I just hope this is enough for my trip lol.
