Do the valve adjustment with the frame off. I'd drain the oil first, then break the rotor nut loose, do that swap, followed by pulling the frame for the valve adjustment. It's only about another 30 minutes of work beyond the normal engine rotate by removing a few more things and wrestling with it to get it off and it is 100x easier to work on the engine once it's sitting there exposed. Oh yeah, drain the fuel out of the tank, makes it a bit lighter.
You will need the crank locking tool to get the rotor off. I think they recommend the cam locking tool for the valve adjustment, but I've done mine a couple of times now and have yet to see the need for it. If you were going to degree the cams, yeah, I could see needing it. If you don't have a good lift in the garage, that would be where I'd spend the first $600+ on if you have the room for it.