Alright ladies and gentlemen, today is the day and the new hight performance mod has been finalized, installed, tested and works very well. I'm gonna show you how you can do your own front brake airscoop for your Buell XB ZTL 2 caliper so you can brake as hard and as long as you want and dominate on the streets and on the tracks and make people turn their heads wondering what is this thing on your brake.
First of all you will need the CAD model. Likely for you I already have this work done! You can download parts STL files here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sP22VRTcTrUkUO7KOYGJ1X3s7FflAnoj/view?usp=sharing
Or if you want to use CAD model you can download Parasolid X_T file with all parts here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MTjxLhZTPKDp6QnkbIlX_ke3uXl3E9Xg/view?usp=sharing
I designed the bracket of the airscoop to be attached to T-Rex Racing sliders https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?46591-T-Rex-Racing-sliders
If you have another sliders or if you do now have sliders at all you have to think how you can attach the bracket to the front wheel hub. You can modify the Parasolid X_T file bracket CAD model and adjust bracket holes diameters specifically for your slider diameter, or you can can cut washers and spacers to attach the existing bracket to you slider.
Then you will need to find a FDM 3D printer. The parts I designed is optimized specifically for FDM 3D printers to get the best possible quality result. Sure you can print the parts using another 3D printing technologies, but this is the cheapest way to do these parts. I want to tnak www.pcs.design company for letting me to print my parts on their 3D printers.
Then you need to buy printing material. For the parts I currently have I used black color 1.75 mm PLA filament from eSUN https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EKEMDA6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But, PLA is not perfect for this application, it is biodegradable, not UV resistant, not the strongest and low glass transition temperature material. The only reason I used it is because it is easy and fast to print. Will see how it will perform in long run, but for the parts I would recommend to use PETG material, like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZAUQZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
PETG is tricky to print, takes long time, but once you have nailed the 3D printing settings you will have strong, heat resistant and UV resistant parts with good surface finish.
One roll of this material is enough to print a bunch of parts, so material expense is very cheap.
Now print the parts. Here is the picture how you have to orient the pars in the 3D printer bed.
No need to use support structure, no brim, no anything, parts are easy and reliable to print as is. For PLA material I used 0.4 mm nozzle diameter, 0.25 mm first layer thickness, 0.2 mm another layers thickness, 0.4 mm bead width, 215 C first layer temperature, 210 C another layers temperature, 3 layer wall thickness, 20% infill. Slow down a few first layers speed and then go default printing speed on the rest. I did not print from PETG filament so you are free for experiment with this material.
Then you need to buy fasteners
- 2 screws 316 Stainless Steel Button Head Hex Drive Screw Super-Corrosion-Resistant, 1/4"-20 Thread Size, 2-1/2" Long https://www.mcmaster.com/#98164a238/=1e0j1rb
- 2 nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel Narrow-Base Weld Nut 1/4"-20 Thread Size https://www.mcmaster.com/#90572A400
And low strength thread locker https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-5553...F8&qid=1533420265&sr=8-2&keywords=222+loctite
So now you have ready to install plug and play kit
First of all you will need the CAD model. Likely for you I already have this work done! You can download parts STL files here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1sP22VRTcTrUkUO7KOYGJ1X3s7FflAnoj/view?usp=sharing
Or if you want to use CAD model you can download Parasolid X_T file with all parts here https://drive.google.com/file/d/1MTjxLhZTPKDp6QnkbIlX_ke3uXl3E9Xg/view?usp=sharing
I designed the bracket of the airscoop to be attached to T-Rex Racing sliders https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?46591-T-Rex-Racing-sliders
If you have another sliders or if you do now have sliders at all you have to think how you can attach the bracket to the front wheel hub. You can modify the Parasolid X_T file bracket CAD model and adjust bracket holes diameters specifically for your slider diameter, or you can can cut washers and spacers to attach the existing bracket to you slider.
Then you will need to find a FDM 3D printer. The parts I designed is optimized specifically for FDM 3D printers to get the best possible quality result. Sure you can print the parts using another 3D printing technologies, but this is the cheapest way to do these parts. I want to tnak www.pcs.design company for letting me to print my parts on their 3D printers.
Then you need to buy printing material. For the parts I currently have I used black color 1.75 mm PLA filament from eSUN https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EKEMDA6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But, PLA is not perfect for this application, it is biodegradable, not UV resistant, not the strongest and low glass transition temperature material. The only reason I used it is because it is easy and fast to print. Will see how it will perform in long run, but for the parts I would recommend to use PETG material, like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZAUQZTA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
PETG is tricky to print, takes long time, but once you have nailed the 3D printing settings you will have strong, heat resistant and UV resistant parts with good surface finish.
One roll of this material is enough to print a bunch of parts, so material expense is very cheap.
Now print the parts. Here is the picture how you have to orient the pars in the 3D printer bed.
No need to use support structure, no brim, no anything, parts are easy and reliable to print as is. For PLA material I used 0.4 mm nozzle diameter, 0.25 mm first layer thickness, 0.2 mm another layers thickness, 0.4 mm bead width, 215 C first layer temperature, 210 C another layers temperature, 3 layer wall thickness, 20% infill. Slow down a few first layers speed and then go default printing speed on the rest. I did not print from PETG filament so you are free for experiment with this material.
Then you need to buy fasteners
- 2 screws 316 Stainless Steel Button Head Hex Drive Screw Super-Corrosion-Resistant, 1/4"-20 Thread Size, 2-1/2" Long https://www.mcmaster.com/#98164a238/=1e0j1rb
- 2 nuts 18-8 Stainless Steel Narrow-Base Weld Nut 1/4"-20 Thread Size https://www.mcmaster.com/#90572A400
And low strength thread locker https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-5553...F8&qid=1533420265&sr=8-2&keywords=222+loctite
So now you have ready to install plug and play kit
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