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Drive belt help

Buellxb Forum

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rokdog13

Member
Joined
May 11, 2017
Messages
8
2010 XB12Ss
Purchased bike, rode it home 150 miles.
Went for a ride the next day and the drive belt broke.
Trying to install replacement belt that was supplied by the previous owner and I cannot get the pulley back on.
The belt has an inch of play or so WITHOUT the pulley on, and its hard to remove.
I've checked front and rear sprocket counts
Checked belt serial number 'G0500. 1AKF 'which appears to be correct and 135 tooth count.
After installing the belt and failing to get the pulley on I removed the belt which was pretty hard.
Double checked tooth count and serial numbers.
Loosened rear axle up as far as it could go then re-installed it.
I noticed if the teeth on are in the grooves on the top of the rear sprocket it wants to ride up out of the grooves on the bottom.
It's like this belt has shrunk ALLOT or something.
Please help!
 
No idea why you have the pulley removed or even which one you are referring to but putting on the belt is as simple as this:

loosen rear axle completely (the threads) but keep it in both ends of the swing arm, the wheel will be cocked to the left.
Have all pulleys on the bike... rear wheel, tension pulley, and front pulley.
Have the belt over the front and tension pulley then you can line up the teeth on the rear and slip it on because the wheel is cocked to the left
thread the axle in that was holding the wheel but wasn't threaded until now, the wheel will now align and belt tension will be set.
Tighten up the pinch bolt and you are done.
 
The pulley I am referring to is the ONLY one on the bike..
the one located just behind and below the front sprocket.
I backed the axle completely out, then threaded it back in 4 turns.
with the pulley removed I put the belt on, which barely fit.
It leaves no play for pulley installation.
Watched the ONE video on Youtube covering belt installation.
The play in that belt is quite a bit.
On my bike before pulley install there is less than an inch of play in the belt and I need several to re nstall the pulley.
Also, The replacement belt I received with the bike purchase barely even fits the rear sprocket.
with the teeth sitting in the grooves at the top of the sprocket they are riding up and out on the bottom
like this belt has shrunk so much the teeth on the belt and sprocket don't even line up.
I've researched the belt, it's the correct one as far as I can see.
My Bike 2010 Buell XB12Ss
replacement belt G0500 1AKF 135 tooth belt.
I checked front and rear sprocket counts, all correct to original specs.
 
I don't take the tensioner pulley off when I change belts... shouldn't need to. Not sure how or why the belt cogs wouldn't align with the pulley teeth? Pics?
 
rokdog13, so you can't follow step by step or you don't understand the steps... I'm not sure? Nothing needs to be removed to put a belt on, only undo the threads of the axle slip belt over the rear then tighten... can't make it any more clear. You are probably seeing the belt being to stiff (uninstalled) to conform teeth fitment is all.
 
May in fact have the wrong belt. The belt should have plenty of slack with the tensioner removed,even tho you dont remove it to swap belts.
 
You have the correct belt and the latest PN for it available G0500.1AKF

These are the old belt PN's that also work on the SS/STT/ULY

Product has been replaced:
- G0500.1AKE
- G0500.1AKD
- G0500.1AKB
 
Last edited:
I called and talked to an actual Harley tech who's worked on several Buell's and got a concise common sense description of the belt installation procedure.
I got the belt installed in about 20 minutes.
Lowkey, I'm not sure what bike you own or how it may differ.
But the procedure I got from the certified Harley Tech wasn't anything like your description which did not take into account the huge amount of resistance on the belt I installed.
Your description exactly like that youtube video of an older Buell where the guy just slipped the belt on like it was no big deal.
The Harley Tech told me that video was completely wrong and his description of the procedure proved out in execution.
I thought the comment "so you can't follow step by step or you don't understand the steps... I'm not sure?"
was pretty funny considering how wrong it was...
 
I stand corrected. As per the manual:

DRIVE BELT INSTALLATION
NOTES
• When removing or installing belt, do not bend or twist belt.
Partially slide belt onto sprocket and rotate wheel or belt
damage will occur.
• Never tighten rear axle with swingarm brace removed.
1. Slide belt onto sprocket.
2. Install swingarm brace and tighten fasteners to 25-27 ftlbs
(34-37 Nm). See 2.21 SWINGARM AND BRACE.
NOTE
See Figure 6-42. Occasionally the drive belt is not fully seated
in rear sprocket making it difficult to install the idler pulley. It
will be necessary to follow the outlined procedure in order to
easily install idler pulley.
3. See Figure 6-42. Grasp top and bottom of drive belt and
squeeze together until belt teeth are fully seated in rear
sprocket.
4. While keeping tension on lower belt, install idler pulley
assembly tightening washers and nuts to 33-35 ft-lbs (45-
47 Nm).
5. See Figure 6-43. Tighten rear axle (1) to 23-27 ft-lbs (31.2-
36.6 Nm), back off two full turns and then retighten to 48-
52 ft-lbs (65.1-70.5 Nm).
6. Tighten rear axle pinch fastener (2) to 40-45 ft-lbs (54-61
Nm).
7. See Figure 6-41. Install front sprocket cover. See
2.38 SPROCKET COVER.
8. Install chin fairing. See 2.53 CHIN FAIRING.
9. Install right side rider footpeg mount. See 2.36 FOOTPEG,
HEEL GUARD AND MOUNT: FIREBOLT/LIGHTNING or
2.37 HEEL GUARD AND FOOTPEG MOUNTS:
ULYSSES.
10. Install lower belt guard. See 2.39 BELT GUARDS.
11. Install rear fender (XB12Ss,XB12STT and XB12X models
only). See 2.15 FENDERS.
12. Remove scissor jack from motorcycle.

As stated by myself and others, never had to remove the pulley for ANY reason when it comes to installing or removing the belt, You're welcome anyway for the help even though you didn't use that method...

I'll give you a +1 for not snapping the axle and another +1 for realizing there is a pinch bolt in the swing arm without having to ask... but really it's so dead simple, I've never had a look at installing the belt as the manual lays out.

There is a lot of stuff that can be done faster/less steps than laid out in the manual and if I was charging you by the hour for work, you'd be glad I did it that way. End result is the same you have your belt on now with your procedure (however long it took)... and my belt is just fine with my way (under 2 min on or off the back wheel).

You should also torque your drain plugs as per the manual while you aren't taking forum advice but asking for it. (don't do that... just having some fun!)
 
Last edited:
i've posted this up several times before from memory and doing it again. it puts an end to bickering and can be printed out and placed in your document holder for that rare occasion where you're on the road....broke the drive belt....have access to correct tools...and really in a bind. i can't make it simpler than this:
1-remove front pulley cover---THREE #27 torx screws
2-remove rear axle pinch bolt---right side facing bottom of swingarm
3-remove swingarm bridge---right side upper cast aluminum assembly--4 hex cap bolts
4-remove idler pulley---2 nine-sixteenth inch hex nuts each with single large flat washer behind same
5-loosen axle 2 full turns
6-snug axle back up--just snug---nothing more
7-with ratchet assembly handle now @ 12 o'clock position---LOOSEN REAR AXLE PRECISELY 22 FULL TURNS COUNTER- CLOCKWISE
8-remove belt---work it thru bridge opening
installation is reverse....torque rear axle to 50 ft. lbs. of torque if torque wrench available
NOTE: on uly and stt models in particular you'll have to remove the right side drivers footpeg and guard...on some models you'll have to remove upper belt guard. you'll know if you have to when you find insufficient clearance to remove/install belt.
DO NOT EVER PINCH--BEND---CRIMP---NICK--OR SEVERELY TWIST THE DRIVE BELT!
A NEW BELT MUST BE CORRECTLY "RUN-IN' SO THAT THE TEETH PROPERLY MATE TO THE SPROCKET NOTCHES WHICH ALSO PROMOTES LONGEVITY.
 
Last edited:
rokdog13 said:
I called and talked to an actual Harley tech who's worked on several Buell's and got a concise common sense description of the belt installation procedure.
Click to expand...

You found a Harley tech who actually knows Buells? You have found a unicorn! Please make sure you demonstrate appreciation towards this guy, as they are very few and far between.

I don't think Lowkey has earned his "Internet forum motorcycle mechanic free advice certification" yet (kidding - lowkey).

However, between him and AZMidget we may have all of our ECM tuning needs handled. I know I owe both of them at least a beer and a huge amount of appreciation.
 
Crazy stuff, and I REALLY want to understand why all the Buell owners description of how to replace the belt is so drastically different than what I experienced and how the certified techs description of how to do it was what worked.
I pulled the rear axle COMPLETELY,
reinstalled the idler pulley
coated axle with never seize and set it aside. (per techs advice)
pushed rear wheel forward in swing arm and installed belt.
slid rear axle into swingarm.
Took a piece of wood and placed it at the end of the swing arm
slid a pry bar into rear sprocket.
Started to pry rear wheel rearward so I could slide axle into wheel.
Almost knocked bike off jackstands.
Began sweating profusely and cursing about non adjustable drive belts.
Fiddled with axle while applying pressure with pry bar and holding bike up with elbow.
Getting never seize all over hands, bike, floor and shoes.
FINALLY got rear wheel back far enough to slide axle into place.
Jumped with joy and almost knocked bike over, again..
Ran axle all the way in.
Went to other side of bike to install rear brake caliper.
Found washer laying on floor that was obviously a spacer.
Pulled axle back out to re-install said washer and repeated whole procedure again.
With a bit less cussing and sweating.

The difference between the online descriptions and what I saw before me, what I had to do to get the belt on
really have me flummoxed.
I half expected the belt to snap again with the crazy amount of tension that is on it.
But, I've seen a few comments about them being so tight.
And both techs told me that it was completely normal.
I took it for a short test ride.
Everything ok.
Appreciate the torque specs, I'll go back over the axle tonight to make sure Its at spec.
 
Last edited:
34nineteen said:
You found a Harley tech who actually knows Buells? You have found a unicorn! Please make sure you demonstrate appreciation towards this guy, as they are very few and far between.

I don't think Lowkey has earned his "Internet forum motorcycle mechanic free advice certification" yet (kidding - lowkey).
Click to expand...

Thats fine, I've infrequently been here since 2012, so there is probably a lot of threads you've missed along the way. I take a "time is money" approach to any wrenching job and my procedures will reflect that.

rokdog13 said:
Found washer laying on floor that was obviously a spacer.
Pulled axle back out to re-install said washer and repeated whole procedure again.
Click to expand...

No such spacer exists between wheel/swing arm. Only a spacer that sits between bearings inside of the wheel. If you have a spacer outside of the bearing that sits on the axle something isn't right...
 

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