Dumb Brakeing Question

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Hydrophilic

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Joined
Feb 9, 2013
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I just replaced my brake pads after just getting the bike a few months ago (and noticing a slight chatter in the front with hard braking.) I got the FA345HH front and FA140HH rear sintered pads. After doing a bit of breaking in and riding it around, I noticed that the rear doesn't have much bite. I mean I pretty much always use both brakes, but I tried each by themselves and I have to stand on the rear to get anything. This is my first sportbike. My dad and cousins harleys will lock the rear up, just wondering if this is normal as I know you get about 70% of braking from the front. Also just making sure I installed the pads correctly and everything is working as it should.
 
13688_20120810162354_L.jpg
make site the rear isn't like this. I learned with trying to get the petal down to make the drop pegs more comfortable the threaded rod hits not allowing the brake to work..
 
how many miles since the new pads? I changed my rear brake and it took about 100-300 miles before I got any bite. Someone later posted some videos about bedding in the pads, which I didn't know was necessary.
 
changed pads a few months ago, had no issues with braking from either. bled the brakes after replacing the fuild, still no braking issues. try reverse bleeding from the caliper to the reservoir, removes the air in the system best. use a set up like this:

10624_20110710034431_L.jpg
 
I changed my rear brake light switch recently. And it was a huge pain in the ass to bleed the air out, you cant just pump 3 times and bleed it was pump a dozen plus time then bleed. And like thrstrmech suggested i ended up reverse bleeding using a vacuum on the res and sucked into the res and never grabbed harder
 
I've put 50-ish miles and followed the bed in procedure I found online. I will try bleeding them next time I'm home. Do you guys use those little vacs or some other tool or just a standard hose?
 
I tried manual old school bleeding, a vacuum gun, gravity bleeding, and reverse bleeding. None fixed my issue. I then just rode it all day and after a couple hundred miles it started working(I was using it the whole time out of habit). I just started to notice the it worked more and more. By the end of the day I could lock it up.

Not saying it's the same situation, just giving you info. I had resurfaced my rotor as well with an orbital sander and I think what happened with mine is that I used too fine a grit.
 
the pic I posted is one used at work on 'GA' aircraft, at home I have a different one that works in the same manner. the tubing you can get from home depot, lowes or ace hardware...can also use fuel tubing for weed eaters or nitro rc fuel systems
 
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