ECM failure? Also anyone in NJ area want to help out with a spare?

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fetherston

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Joined
May 5, 2018
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Heyo, so was riding my '03 XB9S over the weekend after finishing my complete engine rebuild over the winter. Have about 150mi on the bike since the rebuild, and the motor just cuts out. Pull to the side of the road, quickly figure out there's no spark.

Get home and confirmed the following:
  • Key on, lights light up, fuel pump primes, bike will crank, can smell fuel delivery, no spark
  • Swapped around the relays in the fuse block and verified fuses, no problem there
  • Have voltage but no pulsing ground at coil pack connector
  • Have voltage and signal from cam position sensor
  • Many error codes including 52,53,54,55,56 using the diagnostic jumper method

So couple questions:
  1. Fried ECM? Is there a better way to confirm before I start hunting one down?
  2. Anyone in the NJ area got a spare I can swap in to verify my problem?
  3. What year/models are ECMs interchangeable with?
 
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I'm sure John will jump in and walk you through EXACTLY what's wrong with your machine. If you're in South Jersey and you need help fixing it you're more than welcome to bring it over to my shop and we can tackle it together. If you rebuilt your motor I'm sure you're more than fine though.
 
Have voltage but no pulsing ground at coil pack connector
the ecm provides the negative pulse to the coil. classic failed ecm symptom.

NOTE: if the pump primes....and the motor cranks....the problems does NOT lie with the kill switch. when turning on ignition switch if the gauges sweep and the lights activate it is NOT the key switch fuse or key switch relay or ignition fuse.

i have seen a few instances where a fault with 1 or more of the below results in loss of ignition spark so do the below to rule out.


correct trouble-shooting for this is unique to the 2003 XB only and as follows:
1-is your neutral indicator light working properly? if so then the switch is ruled out as the culprit.
2-remove the 2 wires from your side-stand safety interlock switch and jump then with a simple wire. does it now start? if so replace the switch.
3-in NEUTRAL try and start with clutch lever engaged and disengaged. does it now start? if so replace the switch.
4-remove fuse box lid...flip over and look at schematic---locate diode fuse...confirm it is good and pointed in correct direction. also confirm ecm fuse is good. remove...check the spades....check the female fuse lugs...replace fuse if corroded or bad and now try to start.
5-no success with any of the above? then you've fully confirmed your 5 stored fault codes. your ecm is terminal.

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I'm kinda putting the cart before the horse, but keep in mind if your ECM is in fact faulty you'll need ECMspy and a cable or ECM Droid and Buelltooth to reset your Throttle Position Sensor when you install your new ECM. Just something else to look for while you're parts shopping.

(Or maybe beg/borrow software and tools from a local if you dont plan on making use of them often)
 
Some really good ideas in here that I'll be looking at this weekend, thank you! The previous owner disabled the clutch and kickstand switch as part of the starter interlock, so it's possible that work has come undone. Also haven't checked the diodes. I'm certain it's not the killswitch, I can turn the key on with the switch off and once I turn the switch on the fuel pump will prime. Also have an ECM cable on order already.
 
-Is the wiring good?
Check CPS signal at the ECM pin, not the sensor. That will confirm good wiring from the sensor and a good signal to the ECM
-Is the coil and wiring good?
Trigger the coil from the ECM output pin.
If no spark: Trigger it at the coil.
If still no spark: Remove it and triple check the ground contact, still no? Buy a coil.
If the coil does fire from the ECM pin. Buy an ECM.

All '03-'07 DDFI-2 ECM's are interchangeable (the XB12 have a center terminal for the IEV not used on a 9). Buy a new one from IDS or SPHDonline that will come with the correct program. Firmware version won't matter.
OR
Buy a used unit and download the correct Firmware matching program yourself. IMO I use a wireless bluetooth dongle to my Android phone using ECMDroid. I got all of it ($45 dongle, FREE ECMDroid, and FREE ECM program) from Buelltooth.com

IMO I think ECMDroid is the easiest tool to use for diagnosis as well. Go to "live data" to check CPS output (it's read at the ECM so you will know the wirings ok) and test the coil (no spark would tell you bad wiring to the coil or bad coil).
 
Check the coil primary connection. Since you had the motor apart, you may not have connected the coil primary (12v connection) plug all the way, and now its disconnected. When I replaced the intake seals on my SS, I didnt have mine connected all the way (connector was cracked) and it was running pretty flaky. It can be hard to see and get to with the engine in place.
 
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