Ecm

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lagerhead

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Joined
Oct 19, 2016
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Started messing with my 2006 XB12x that I recently purchased. 13,000 miles completely stock. Started with buying a dongle and downloading ECM droid. I saved my stock map, loaded a race map from BuellTooth.com, making sure my maps matched. I have BUEIB firmware. Did the TPS reset. (did it wrong the first time, had poor idle , did a proper TPS reset, everything runs good.)

So today, I go to install a spec ops pipe I recently purchased. remove belt guard and chin fairing. Pull off old pipe, I leave the exhaust cable intact, an tuck it under the exhaust. I fire it up, sounds great. give it a couple low revs and let it run for a few minutes and shut it down. I reinstall the plastic bits, go to fire and it does not start. It would crank but not fire. No codes on the dash. I get a check engine light. I tried to plug in my dongle but get an error code. it says "timeout reading 0 from 6 bytes" So I think i have a faulty dongle. I go to take my key out and the fan immediately turns on like it was running for a long time. I'm thinking thats strange but the fan will turn off eventually. Nope, the fan was in a constant off/on loop until i disconnected the battery. I waited a few minutes and when i reconnect the battery, the fans kicks on.

What is happening to my bike? Does anyone have any ideas? Is my ECM fried? Is that why I can not connect to it via ECM droid? Why is my fan constantly on? I examined the ECM, did not notice any rubbing, but I did notice the post on the left is missing. Maybe it cracked on the inside?

Any help or input is greatly appreciated. thanks
 
Ok, do not think I can help as much as others, maybe some obvious stuff. I would start pulling fuses in case somthing is dead shorting out? Did you disconnect your dongle? Not sure if it is possible with this problem to get your DTC codes off manually. There is a procedure here to do that, basically you jumper a couple of the ECM pins on the port and do a procedure that enables you to count the times the CEL light flashes. If your ECM was not relocated and the left post is missing could be a problem, since I believe that is where the spacer is supposed to be to keep the seat from crushing your ECM. May not matter as I had the spacer and both mounting posts there and it still cracked the connector on it, the PO weighed over 330 lbs. I am sure you already made sure the connections to the ECM are good?
 
Battery is correct, did not see any blown fuses. Since it was running before I replace the pully and chin cover, maybe there is a bound wire, cam potion sensor? Still don't explain why the fan turns on when I connect the battery.
 
Leave the fuses out to eliminate anything, I have a had a Buell GPS mount dead short my running bike, stalled it out and drained my battery without blowing a fuse. I had discoverd it when I unplugged it's power connectors which were in series with the power port on the dash and it did not blow the fuse in the GPS harness either. I have chased down a couple of shorts and a few broken wires. Heat shrink, soldering iron, cable ties, liquid electrical tape, etc... are tools needed for a Uly. Also a decent multi-meter.
 
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I ran it for about an hour or around 25 miles. Took it down the highway to a coffee shop, and came back. I think I was enough for the ecm to "learn"
 
I had some time today to mess around, Problem has been solved. I had pinched a wire under the pully cover. wrapped some electric tape on it and started right up.

I appreciate all your help!:eagerness:
 
two noteworthy items here:
1-anytime you wrench on something....remove and replace parts.....perform adjustments....access the ecm...and upon reassembly find that the bike now has problems......CHECK YOUR WORK!
2-electrical wire wrap for any of those wires under the front pulley cover should be a temporary fix at best. as time permits i'd strongly suggest a more permanent and robust fix than tape.
 
Makes sense to me, electrical tape seems to be too easily effected by temperature changes and weather in general, then starts to peal off. I much prefer shrink wrap but don't know if that is the best to use.
 
Yep, In this case I think there is no connector end to conveniently get heat shrink over and on it, without disassembling a connector. I have used self encapsulating silicone electrical tape before on AC power lines, but not on my Buell or a vehicle. Has any ever used this kind of tape on a motorcycle or car before? Think it may work well for this application, I have not done it before so cannot say for sure it would work?
 
You can take the pins out of the connector easily with a small pick or a filed down paperclip to allow the proper sized heatshrink to fit over the wire.

Best fix is to just replace the damaged wire completely. Cut, replace, solder.
 
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The wire was not cut. I believe it was the throttle position sensor. I will try some heat shrink.
 
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