wheres the info on puttin xb jug, head, and cam on the lil blastoid? turbo anyone? ive got a lil schwitzer rated up to 1000 ccs sittin on the shelf. i was gonna put it on the john deere 330 diesel mower, but it might be more fun on the blast.
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engine upgrades
- Thread starter Blastonia
- Start date
Help Support Buellxb Forum:
Blast is kind of a new thing on this site....could be a do it yourself on switching over...not sure though. As for a turbo I've seen some people do it on an xb so if you switched the jug and other stuff I think it could take the induction.
Luckdragon
Active member
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2012
- Messages
- 31
You have to excuse us Blastards- we are just nucking futs.
BuellRiderX
Well-known member
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2010
- Messages
- 523
Excuse the troll, and no, the Blast ISN'T kinda new here.
I'm sure an expert on all things Blast will come along shortly. If anything, try sending a private message to ezblast or jetlee [up]
I'm sure an expert on all things Blast will come along shortly. If anything, try sending a private message to ezblast or jetlee [up]
Everything is pretty much bolt on except the XB head. The front bolt doesn't align so it has to be elongated. It would be a similiar procedure I did, except the XB head bolt.
Ok, I will update as I can, so I apologize if I am a bit slow (work is busy).
I will outline the installation process of the 515, stage 2 head, and B70 cams.
Material:
515 is pretty straight forward, comes in tact, ready to install but I removed the piston to install piston clip. I then reinstalled with a bit of ATF fluid.
New Head:
Stage 2
Retainer: .6/.65 Titanium
Intake valve 1.76
Exhaust 1.53
Springs .6 lift
Valve guides 5/16
Goodson seals
B70 cams (bolt on)
Gaskets: pretty much all of them (too many to list). Check the manual. 515 comes with a few, but everything will need to be replaced so buy them all (always good to have a few extras). Will also need cam cover gasket and push rod cover. Don't forget the two rings that go on the upper push rods.
New head bolts. There are a lot of them to be replaced. Get extras. And red loctite, lots.
Lots of tools, all basic, and oil, gear lube etc etc.
Take a look:
Some more stuff:
and yet again!
I find it easier to do the homework and collect all the needed tools and put them in abox so you don't have to go searching.
Ok, I will update as I can, so I apologize if I am a bit slow (work is busy).
I will outline the installation process of the 515, stage 2 head, and B70 cams.
Material:
515 is pretty straight forward, comes in tact, ready to install but I removed the piston to install piston clip. I then reinstalled with a bit of ATF fluid.
New Head:
Stage 2
Retainer: .6/.65 Titanium
Intake valve 1.76
Exhaust 1.53
Springs .6 lift
Valve guides 5/16
Goodson seals
B70 cams (bolt on)
Gaskets: pretty much all of them (too many to list). Check the manual. 515 comes with a few, but everything will need to be replaced so buy them all (always good to have a few extras). Will also need cam cover gasket and push rod cover. Don't forget the two rings that go on the upper push rods.
New head bolts. There are a lot of them to be replaced. Get extras. And red loctite, lots.
Lots of tools, all basic, and oil, gear lube etc etc.
Take a look:
Some more stuff:
and yet again!
I find it easier to do the homework and collect all the needed tools and put them in abox so you don't have to go searching.
Ok, wash all engine parts with soap and water (except for jug and piston of course). Make sure everything is as clean as possible. Then let dry in a very clean location.
I am not going to outline how to install springs, guides etc etc, somewhere on this site there is already a how to thread on that in the stock section.
High performance springs are way too big for the rocker box! So, the rocker must be clearnaced. This is just about the most important step - if the rocker is not clearanced nothing will happen as the valves and springs will be pushed agains the side of the rocker box. It is a simple job, I like to use a good metal file, however a dremel also works. I just like to be more precise, albeit slower. Essentially you are filing down the outer portions of the rocker so the springs are not going to hit. You check the clearnace by placing the rocker over the head and making sure there is enough room.
Note their is plenty of room around the outside edges of the springs. They also touched on the opposite side (which I didn't show) so make sure everything is clear.
I am not going to outline how to install springs, guides etc etc, somewhere on this site there is already a how to thread on that in the stock section.
High performance springs are way too big for the rocker box! So, the rocker must be clearnaced. This is just about the most important step - if the rocker is not clearanced nothing will happen as the valves and springs will be pushed agains the side of the rocker box. It is a simple job, I like to use a good metal file, however a dremel also works. I just like to be more precise, albeit slower. Essentially you are filing down the outer portions of the rocker so the springs are not going to hit. You check the clearnace by placing the rocker over the head and making sure there is enough room.
Note their is plenty of room around the outside edges of the springs. They also touched on the opposite side (which I didn't show) so make sure everything is clear.
Ok, Jug is bolt on.
I took the piston out and inserted the piston ring into one side. I put a light coat of ATF fluid around the piston rings and then reinserted it into the jug using my compressor:
I then gently tapped it into place and positioned it so the bottom is just out to slip in the wrist pin. Then slide it over the bolts (with push rod removed for easier access) and then slid the pin into place. The second ring also goes in really easy. Just make sure you have a rag stuffed into the hole below so nothing falls into it. That would suck balls.
Dont forget the gaskets of course. One on every layer (like a cake) and two on the rocker cover (inner and outer).
I took the piston out and inserted the piston ring into one side. I put a light coat of ATF fluid around the piston rings and then reinserted it into the jug using my compressor:
I then gently tapped it into place and positioned it so the bottom is just out to slip in the wrist pin. Then slide it over the bolts (with push rod removed for easier access) and then slid the pin into place. The second ring also goes in really easy. Just make sure you have a rag stuffed into the hole below so nothing falls into it. That would suck balls.
Dont forget the gaskets of course. One on every layer (like a cake) and two on the rocker cover (inner and outer).
Now gently place the head onto the jug. Coat the big head bolts with oil, in and out. I just dunk and let sit for a few so the excess drips off. Don't install yet, cams will need to be installed with the head not bolted on. What I did was place the bolts gently on, but not torqued down.
Now install the cams as stated in the manual, or what was provided with them. Just a hint: put into 5th, find TDC with the timing plug out and be as precise as possible. Mark the cup! Do not move tire! If so you could mistakingly install the cup 180 off and your bike won't start that way. Mark your ignition as well, however timing is the easy part. Make sure all marking line up before you remove the cams. That way you can just take them out and reinstall the new ones int he correct position. I lube them liberally with gear oil. Others do not. Do what you like as it is your bike.
Done.
Then put it all back together - cup, ignition, cover etc etc - gasket as usual.
Install push rod cover and gaskets, don't forget the top O rings or oil will be all over the damn place when you ride.
torque head and jug down. Do it to spec, and rotate from bolt 1 - 4 as shown in the manual for proper seal and not to warp the head. More gaskets.
Put rocker on, bolt up. More gaskets.
Put head cover on, bolt up.
Do all bolts to spec as shown in the manual. Some of these bolts aren't torqued much, but as soon as it's fired up they get tightened up.
Done:
Raise it and install it to the motor mount, plug PVC hose in.
Now the rest is easy.
I fired it up just to make sure everything was good, and then put my fairing back on.
Now I installed the new ignition and happily set my RPMS at 8,000.
Now install the cams as stated in the manual, or what was provided with them. Just a hint: put into 5th, find TDC with the timing plug out and be as precise as possible. Mark the cup! Do not move tire! If so you could mistakingly install the cup 180 off and your bike won't start that way. Mark your ignition as well, however timing is the easy part. Make sure all marking line up before you remove the cams. That way you can just take them out and reinstall the new ones int he correct position. I lube them liberally with gear oil. Others do not. Do what you like as it is your bike.
Done.
Then put it all back together - cup, ignition, cover etc etc - gasket as usual.
Install push rod cover and gaskets, don't forget the top O rings or oil will be all over the damn place when you ride.
torque head and jug down. Do it to spec, and rotate from bolt 1 - 4 as shown in the manual for proper seal and not to warp the head. More gaskets.
Put rocker on, bolt up. More gaskets.
Put head cover on, bolt up.
Do all bolts to spec as shown in the manual. Some of these bolts aren't torqued much, but as soon as it's fired up they get tightened up.
Done:
Raise it and install it to the motor mount, plug PVC hose in.
Now the rest is easy.
I fired it up just to make sure everything was good, and then put my fairing back on.
Now I installed the new ignition and happily set my RPMS at 8,000.
Luckdragon
Active member
- Joined
- Mar 14, 2012
- Messages
- 31
Great show,Pierce- now I know that the project is above my pay grade 
