Exhaust identification...

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blitzkrieg69

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Joined
Dec 27, 2012
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I picked up a 2006 XB9SX on New Years day, and love it so far. I would really like to either load a new map into the ECM, or purchase an EBR race ecm. My problem is that the guy I bought the bike from didn't have a lot of info on the pipe. He said his son "sent the stock pipe off to be modified, some e-bay deal or something". I'm assuming it's either a Drummer or Spec Ops, since those are the only two I've heard of modifying stock cans. Is there any way I can tell which it is without opening it up? And is there that big of a difference between the two when it comes to mapping? I'm wanting to do a K&N filter and airbox delete at the same time as well.

Now that I think about it, I am smelling fuel at idle, which leads me to believe it's running a bit rich. Would it be advisable to carefully cut some holes in the airbox for some more airflow and see how it runs, with the option of re-attaching the removed airbox pieces afterwards if it runs worse? I know absolutely squat about tuning, so I'm just looking for some advice from those of you who are considerably more knowledgable.
 
Just a guess but I'd bet it's running lean not rich. They run lean from the factory, and even leaner with free flowing intakes/exhausts.

Are you sure it doesn't have a race ecm installed?
 
It could be a HAWK pipe which is advertised over there >>>>>.

FYI air cooled bikes like to be rich. Better rich than lean. If the bike has K&N filter then you should get the bike tuned. Tuning will give you the best fuel efficiency and smooth power throughout the RPM's.

Post a picture of the pipe. People are most likely going to help you here if you post up pictures/videos.
 
After you figure out witch you have you can either go to tuniversity and program your stock ECM or buy a plug and play race ECM from EBR

I beleive the drummer stamped there name in the rear of the can. Also had a stainless tail peice.
 
His bike.

IMAG0466_zpseb221258.jpg
 
I'll crawl under it and look for any identifying marks after the game (GO DUCKS!!!) It hasn't had an airbox mod or K&N yet, and I hadn't thought to look if it was a Race ECM or not, I guess I just figured the guy woulda called me. He did say his son had some parts (mirrors, handguards) he was gonna round up and call me, and I asked him to also ask his son who did the mods to the pipe. I do smell fuel at idle, there's tons of popping on decel (which I understand is normal), but I have noticed some hesitation during hard accel. I guess I'll wait on doing anything with the airbox and filter until I know what pipe it is and can take the appropriate steps with the ECM. Thanks for the help so far guys.
 
I'm guessing if the straps aren't on there, he doesn't have them, but I'll definitely ask. Are they expensive to replace? I did give the muffler a good shake while I was under there checking it out just to make sure it wasn't hanging by a thread.
 
if you need straps lemme know, i got a spare set from a previous owners muffler. ill be glad to donate them to a good cause. just pm your address and what not and ill send by next friday.
 
Thanks for that sicsteeth, good looking out.

Apparently your exhaust can falling off and running over it is not the only possible downside to missing the rear clamp. I'm sure the added vibration up the headers probably contributed to this on the way home from work today:

pipe_zps3a81996d.jpg


Anyone happen to know what nut type/size those are? I'm hoping I can pick some up at the local Ace Hardware and get back riding tomorrow. Got over 100 miles on her today, and really couldn't be happier. The only way I can describe her is like a cross between a dirt bike and a cruiser, but with sportbike response and handling. But I'm sure you all know that ;)
 
if you need straps lemme know, i got a spare set from a previous owners muffler. ill be glad to donate them to a good cause. just pm your address and what not and ill send by next friday.

You're a good dude slcsteeth! [up]
 
You might want to check those studs and make sure they didn't break off. Very rare that one backs out, much less two of them backing out? Might have bigger issues than missing header studs. Better check on that.
 
The studs didn't back out, or break, the nuts just vibrated off. I replaced the nuts and some lock washers, but the story continues. I noticed that the flange had come loose while I was standing on the side of the road waiting for my neighbor to bring me fuel. Yeah, since the fuel warning light stays on all the time, and I neglected to reset my tripometer when I fueled, I ran out 3 miles from home. After putting in fuel, she started up fine and I rode home, although a little louder than before. So I just went to the hardware store, got some nuts and washers, put it all back together, and she won't start. She cranks just fine, but no start. I smell fuel when cranking, of course. If I give it some throttle when cranking, it will sound like it almost wants to start, but then I get a big backfire, and no start. Any suggestions? I don't get how tightening the headers back up could change how she starts. She was running perfectly, although a little loud, when I parked it. Any insight?
 
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