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Fan not running...hmmmmm!

Buellxb Forum

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34nineteen

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 6, 2015
Messages
4,485
Location
Kolache Factory
So, I've been having some "running hot" issues with my bike lately. I know the fan works, as I can activate it through EcmDroid (when I can get it to connect).

Last night I went for a ride on the highway (about 30 miles), and once I came to a stop and shut it down, I noticed.... silence. Well, thats weird. My fan always ran upon shutdown (after getting to operating temp), even if just for a few moments. On the way back home, same thing once I got home. Turned the key off... no fan. I went inside to get my tablet, and ECMDroid still wont connect up.. so I wasn't able to do a test on the fan again. Anyways, the assumption is the fan is working (I'll see if I can test it again tonight).

With the the running hot issues, and the fan not turning on, I'm starting to give that rear head sensor a bit of the stink eye. Unless anyone else has some input?
 
I think you are on the right track. If you can get it to connect have a look at the fan trigger temps key on and key off. Check live data engine temp and start it cold, does it logically build temp? Take it for a decent ride and view the live temp data, should it be triggering the fan key off temp once you come back?

Good luck! :up:
 
Start simple: check the fuse box to see if you have any blown fuses. Then check the wiring for the head temp sensor and the fan. You might have a blown fuse or a frayed wire causing your issue.
www.buellmods.com if you need a service manual to assist you.
 
Why do you think it's running hot? Sputtering, lack of power, pinging, knocking? Or hot legs;)

The fan test only triggers the relay to start the fan, It isn't testing the sensor input.

Both Lowkey and Chicken are right. Datalog temps and see if the info is good. See if theres a sensor or wiring issue.
 
Why do you think it's running hot? Sputtering, lack of power, pinging, knocking? Or hot legs;)

The fan test only triggers the relay to start the fan, It isn't testing the sensor input.

Both Lowkey and Chicken are right. Datalog temps and see if the info is good. See if theres a sensor or wiring issue.



I had hot legs waaay before I got this bike :black_eyed:

Seriously though,

I have noticed hot legs on this bike for awhile, more so than my other XB's... and this one has the RSS and exhaust shield. It does like to ping under load as well. A couple of times after a ride, I noticed that fuel was coming out of the vent tube, and could swear I heard some faint bubbling/boiling in the tank. The fan was working back in those days, so I was less suspecting of the temp sensor, and leaning more towards a lean fuel map.

I had a feeling ECMDroid was just sending a "independent request" to the ECM to fire the fan. But, I want to reverify the fan is actually still functioning before going after the temp sensor.


Unfortunately, until I get my tablet to stay connected, datalogging is out. It especially doesnt like to connect when the bike is warm/hot.

I'll double check the fuse to make sure, and may just replace the temp sensor for good measure anyhow. Already have the service book, thanks!
I got home late, and didn't feel like digging too deep into it after battling the tablet to connect.
 
A side note to this: I still need to check my static timing, as this could be part of my problem too. It appears ECMDroid won't read the cam sensor, but I read a thread on badweb, where they probed two ECM wires with a DVOM and watched for the +/- 5V reading on the DVOM.

Someone had been in there previous to me (cover was on crooked), and while its probably fine, I just want to make sure I'm not chasing my tail.
 
You can set you static timing manually.
Put bike on rear wheel stand.
Remove timing cover to expose CPS/timing plate
Remove front spark plug
Put transmission in 5th gear
Remove timing inspection plug.
Ensure you know exactly when front cylinder is at top dead center. This can be achieved by rotating the engine, via bumping the rear wheel forward until you see the timing mark dead center in the inspection hole. Now measure the distance from the top of the front piston to the top of the spark plug hole. Shortest possible distance when timing mark is centered is TDC.
Now, once you've found top dead center rotated the engine wheel slightly backwards so that timing mark is just to the left of center.
Turn key on, flip red run/kill switch to run.
rotate engine/wheel forward until timing mark is centered.
If timing is correct, the fuel pump will prime/kick on the second the timing mark is centered and front cylinder is at TDC
IF this is not the case, loosen CPS plate hardware and advance or retard timing in minuscule encraments until this is achieved.
I've set static time this way in the past and used ECMspy to verifly the process worked.
Good luck.
 
I don't think you need to go changing anything just yet. PM me your email and I can help you out in the software department, what year XB? I helped someone on here perform static timing without software without a problem but I'm on my phone so I'll have to find that post later for you.

Also what dongle do you have that you are having trouble with? Seeing a lot of posts about this lately and I too keep dropping connection...
 
Thanks Chicken. Tonight, I'll make sure I bring a straw home. I've already done the "thread the CPS cover plate mod" so this should be pretty straightforward.
 
Lowkey, let me do Chickens method first. If I cant make it work, I'll hit you up. Thanks for the offer! 06 XB12SS, btw...

I'm kind of leery about flashing the ECM at this point, until I can make my tablet/dongle/ECM connection sound. The last thing I need is a half burned EEPROM and a bricked ECM.
 
Yep chicknstripn's description is basically the method I was going to dig up. I just retard the CPS 2 degrees (leave hardware loose) while the mark is just coming up on the left of the window then flip the switch set the mark dead center then slowly slide CPS sensor advance then lock as soon as it primes. The straw thing is good for the first time to compare the mark with the piston, that way you will know for sure. (I may do that actually and scribe the inspection hole to the leading mark edge, not a fan of how wide the margin is on that mark).
Also I wasn't going to have you flash anything, but give you that "visual" cue to do the job.:up:
 
You guys have the timing covered (PUN!!!) and it would cause the issues you are having. Post up what you find, we'll figure it out.

Ya, I heard everyone making dongles had a bad batch bluetooth thingys a while ago from the same supplier :down: check to see the little light is flashing the whole time so you know it's not a fuse issue powering it. FYI, a partially burned map won't 'brick' an ECM. It will make the bike not run:( but you can re-flash if you need to. As I understand it YMMV, the only way to 'brick' an ECM is to load the wrong firmware version of a map, and ECMDroid has safties against that.
 
Uh, you forget who you're dealing with! Lol! I can break just about anything ;)

Anyhow here is the update:
I was able to get Ecmdroid to connect tonight.

Timing was pretty much spot on. Maybe a touch advanced, but just a smidge. Probably not the issue, so we can put that on the back burner. Btw, backprobing the signal leads with a dvom is a pain. Ok, trying to bump the motor and hold my head in position to watch for the timing marks is worse. Ugh.

Fan works via active test. So that's not it.

AFV is 105.3

Key off fan on 170c
Key off fan off 150c

Key on fan on 220c
Key on fan on 180c

Do those settings seem on where they should be?

Speed based fan control is off.

I'm hedging my bet at the temp sensor. (P1278.K)
 
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Sorry, I just got on here right now34nineteen, thought I had it up in "live data" on my last ride while I was data logging. IIRC it has a weird acronym. I could be mistaken as I only had the one ride to data log and watch live data and that lasted about a min before connection failed... I'd look right now but I drained the oil last night so can't start it until I get fluids back in. I do see that ECMDroid reads the sensor under "sensor data" (check box on or off) so I don't see why not. You could lower the "fan on" trigger to say 110 degrees and it should start spinning quickly after warm up. PM me your email man, I got what you need! haha
 
Yep, mine appears to flake out when it warms up as well. The night after the ride, it would not connect to save my life. In the morning, after everything cooled down, it connected up like a champ. I'm probably going to huck a new temp sensor at it just for sh!ts and giggles.

My email is my username on here at gmail.
 
So did you try lowering the "fan-on" "key-on" temp trigger with ECMDroid to something like 110 degrees and see if the temp sensor is triggering the ECM to trigger the fan?
 
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