First ride on my xb9r... a few issues that worry me...

[zektiv]

My 03 xb9r had her first ride today (at least, first ride under my ownership lol) - a short one in the neighborhood to make sure brakes work, the engine runs, clutch works, etc. It was... slightly terrifying and raised up a whole series of questions. Any kind of guidance or direction is very much appreciated!

The biggest question was this matter of the rpm 'unwind'. At a standstill, I would increase throttle, then release throttle. Generally speaking (in my experience, at least) when you release the throttle it *usually* "unwinds" about as fast as it wound up. Maybe a smidge slower. In this case the rpms would come back down but it would do so very slowly. As if I were slowly coming off the throttle. Noticeably slow.

Now, the throttle tube doesn't snap like pretty much every other bike I've ridden. It's not sticky, it's just kind of weak on the return. Don't know if that's endemic to Buells or just mine, but maybe there's an adjustment I need to figure out there. Anyway, knowing this I would manually snap the throttle shut. Rev up, immediately close the throttle. RPMs would go up pretty quick, and then sort of slowly coast back down. Like maybe at half speed or slower. My first thought is that it's somehow related to the throttle cables - any advice on this would be awesome. Maybe it's normal? I don't know.

The second thing I noticed is that the bike shifts like crap. I mean, based on my reading/the web/etc I expected it to be... a little less than ideal... but it's just really, really bad. To compare, I rode my buddy's Uly and it's hard but it's not like this by a long, long shot. I don't even know how to describe it... first seems okay, getting into second feels like I gotta kick a soccer ball hard, third is sometimes easy, sometimes hard... didn't get past third. Finding neutral is hilariously difficult. Sometimes the neutral light doesn't even come on. My buddy rode it and he went from first to neutral twice before realizing that to get to second he had to get really serious about it. ANY help on how I can mitigate this, adjust it, replace it, whatever, please... I can't believe a transmission like that can be considered "normal" by anybody.

I also got weirded out by the scraping sound the front brakes make while riding. On the stand, the wheel turns fine and there's a light scraping sound. While pushing it out the same thing, maybe a little more scraping. While under power, it's a light scraping sound until I apply the brakes, and then it's a more pronounced scraping. Just a lot of scraping overall. None of my other bikes have ever really done that, except for maybe a light scraping when the brakes are applied.

I'm new to Buells so please be gentle - I'm sure this is all very obvious stuff to the experienced, and I'm learning as I go. I really appreciate the help in getting her to this point, and any help with diagnosing and resolving these issues.

 

[wickedchop]

Do u have any type of after market bar ends? If installed improperly they will cause throttle hang up, shifting......try changing the primary oil first, then go from there and after that I cant help you..lol. Brakes, rebuild calipers, mainly seals and install new pads and flush system w new fluid. A mityvac will come in handy here, good luck and let us know how you make out.

 

[ToneTheMoan]

Also on the throttle is the handlebar grip binding on the switch gear? disconnect the cables at the twistgrip and eliminate everything that is running nice and smooth, lube everything and go from there. On the other stuff start small and work up, so is the gear lever positioned properly on the splines if its pointing down too much at rest it can be a real bastard to shift and brake wise check the pad wear and condition, any doubts then replace but they may be "noisy" sintered pads but they shouldn`t be too noisy!!

 

[user_deleted]

your bike is 13 years old now and needs some attention. i commend you on riding it first and getting a feel for it, and what seems to need serviced and seeking out counsel. tony and wally above correct as usual.
throttle condition: look at the right switchgear housing. there are 2 cables. the one towards the front is the throttle "opener" cable....one towards rear is throttle "closer" cable. adjust them properly. anything other than factory plugs attached to end of your firebolt clip-on tubes will cause problems. check to see if grip has been pressed inward against the switchgear. a bit of kano kroil between grip end and switchgear and a bit at tube end typically helps. XB throttle bodies have extremely stout plate return springs. if your throttle not snapping closed in reasonable manner you need to check condition of both cables...if someone changed the routing of same...grip items i mentioned.
shifting: remove derby cover....slide gaitor up on cable adjuster barrel exposing same....drain primary fluid(let drip for 1 hour). at this point you want to loosen barrel adjuster.....remove cable end from lever and perch...lube cable well...reinstall. now properly adjust cable and clutch-pack. clean drain plug magnet, replace plug O-ring, reinstall and fill with fresh AMSOIL 20-50 cycle oil. after approx. 10 miles of riding if you do the above correctly your XB will shift damn near as smoothly and consistently as any bike out there.
front brake racket: replace the pads with EBC HH pads. i stock them if you can't source elsewhere. install properly then flush front brake system and refill with dot-4. that will end the racket.
if you need guidance on any of the above post back and we'll walk you thru it.

 

[user_deleted]

and adjust the primary drive chain. apologies as i forgot to mention that. critical to smooth shifting and finding neutral.

 

[UMDterp13]

Not to be rude or anything but if you're like the people who normally contact me about a cheap one... This kind of thing can happen! A deal or steal may turn into a money pit. I know because I fix these quite often.
Sounds like you got a $1k or $2k 9r cause it was cheap...

Tire pressure, oil level, suspension settings, clutch adjustment
Full service, if the shifting issue persists then there may be something bigger at play. Which i don't want to freak anyone out about but does happen on the older mistreated models. Get a service manual or find a dealer local who services Buells (a Harley dealer, not an exhaust shop).

Welcome to buell, they make mechanics of you. But you'll be better off in life because of it.
Once you get it sorted out, there will be no issues at all, mine run great & couple are very high mile.

 

[Dellinger]

Lunatic as always hit the nail on the head. Primary chain adjustment is crucial to smooth shifting. Proper oil in the trans is crucial. Amsoil is the best for the primary, no friction modifiers. I torched a clutch using the wrong oil that was recommend by Redline. The manual advises oiling cables which helps the throttle but you could take the throttle tube off when inspecting cables and clean the inside of the tube and the handlebar then apply a light coat of grease to both surfaces.

 

[zektiv]

Alright, time for some updates now that I've got something to report back...

I adjusted the primary chain per the manual and changed out all the oil. I used Mobil 1 for both after doing a ton of research here and on BWB - couldn't source Amsoil and M1 seems to be the resounding 'second best'. Did a quick run and immediately noticed a huge difference in the shifting behavior. Put it back up on the stand, plugged in, and did a TPS reset that smoothed out the throttle and jerkiness I experienced on that run. Took it out one more time, shifting was *significantly* improved. Finding neutral is still being really stubborn, however. Thinking it might help with finding the elusive neutral, this afternoon I tried adjusting the clutch but there are a few differences in my clutch cable, compared to the photos and videos I see and in the manual. The clutch seems a lot tighter now, so hopefully all the shifting issues will be resolved on the next test run.

The throttle snap-back issue persists. I think lubing the throttle cables will probably do the trick - kind of got my hands full with other things that need servicing. The motor unwinding slowly is - from what I'm reading - apparently normal behavior in Buells. Something about the ECU being programmed to minimize engine braking. I did the carb-cleaner test and didn't notice any significant stalling or idle slowing down when I sprayed it at the intake manifold.

While adjusting the clutch I noticed that when I roll the wheel there are two noises that stood out: a clicking sound that seemed to originate from hub of the rear wheel and a strange almost groaning noise that seems to originate from either the belt or the front pulley. Manually rolling the wheel back and forth would create the sound. I took some video, in case anybody's interested in offering their thoughts on what might be causing the sounds:

Clicking sound: https://youtu.be/3aFJX2AHrVo

Groaning belt rubbing sound: https://youtu.be/_1PCO2-A9KE

The clicking, I believe to be a bad wheel hub bearing. I took the rear wheel off and as soon as I pulled the axle loose the right side (belt side) wheel bearing popped right out. The spacer inside slid out easily, and one end of it looked like it might have been used to hammer in (or out) the bearing. I'll post pics. Anyway I'm going to get new bearings and have them installed in the next day or two. Might as well - it's relatively inexpensive and will remove the wheel hub bearing as an issue.

The groaning sound is a little more elusive. Not sure what the heck it is. Maybe it's the belt, maybe it's the pulley? Any thoughts or ideas would be much appreciated. In the video you can hear the clicking in the background but it's that stretching-belt groaning noise that worries me. I thought the belt might be overtensioned (I tensioned it according to the manual's technique and specifications) but it's not a consistent noise.

UMDTermp I'd hardly call it a money pit unless I start paying H-D mechanics to look at it, and I knew it would need plenty of work when I got it. I've rebuilt a few bikes and I'm comfortable getting my hands dirty. It's all part of the learning process and - thanks to forums like this - I'm confident I can resolve nearly any issue by myself; A necessity considering I haven't found a single mechanic in my area that will work on a Buell beyond doing an oil change - and that includes the Harley dealerships. Yeah, it'll make a mechanic of me... here's to that!

Thank you all for you help and advice - it's been invaluable.

 

[Chicknstripn]

Sounds like you're on the right track with the bike and your attitude to the surprises you might find while working on said bike.
Have you checked the idler pulley bearings? Those could be binding and causing the belt to make the groaning noise you described.
Good luck and kuddos to you for having a service manual and using it!

 

[user_deleted]

when servicing the rear wheel as you mentioned use the below info and contact me if you can't find the wheel bearing sets on your own as i sell alot of them to board members at a few bucks above my dealer cost:
1-your stock rear wheel is a 2-bearing design....NOT 3 bearing. each bearing pocket has a "floor" that the bearing bottoms out against making install very easy. removing both the drive pulley and rotor highly recommended when performing bearing replacement. closely inspect the inner spacer. it is the long tube that the inner race assemblies press against. it must be pristine and near perfect condition. if not replace it. any dealer can fetch you one.
2-idler pulley has 2 bearings easily replaceable and highly recommended. bearing part # is 6203. BUY QUALITY...not chinese garbage. they are a light press fit once the snap ring is removed. a very easy job to perform.
3-lightly wire wheel the entire rear axle and then coat with light grease prior to install. i delete grease from the threaded portion and lightly coat that area with anti-seize.
4-a stock clutch cable has a threaded barrel with jamb-nut and rubber gaitor covering same. anything other than that is a non-stock cable. clutch pack and cable adjustment done correctly yields smooth shifting and easily found neutral. when you get to that point post up and we'll be happy to walk you thru it though the manual covers it nicely. on the slotted clutch pack nut you turn it OUT/COUNTER-CLOCKWISE till slightly snug......then IN/CLOCKWISE approx. 1/2 turn. any other method mentioned is incorrect.

 

[user_deleted]

and this will walk you thru the idler pulley bearing procedure.
http://www.twinmotorcycles.nl/artikelen.asp?cid=7&aid=292

 

[UMDterp13]

*You don't need to pull rotor or drive pulley. Definitely spray the bearing/wheel contact points with lubricant prior to pulling bearings.*

 

[zektiv]

when servicing the rear wheel as you mentioned use the below info and contact me if you can't find the wheel bearing sets on your own as i sell alot of them to board members at a few bucks above my dealer cost:
1-your stock rear wheel is a 2-bearing design....NOT 3 bearing. each bearing pocket has a "floor" that the bearing bottoms out against making install very easy. removing both the drive pulley and rotor highly recommended when performing bearing replacement. closely inspect the inner spacer. it is the long tube that the inner race assemblies press against. it must be pristine and near perfect condition. if not replace it. any dealer can fetch you one.

The inner spacer looks like somebody chewed on the end of it, or at least used it to hammer at something (probably the bearing). Here's a photo:

The other side looks pristine, for what it's worth. You mentioned that any dealer can fetch me one - are you referring to Harley-Davidson dealers or is it something 'universal' to wheels that I can go to any dealership for? Is this something they'll have 'in stock', or will they have to order it? Is there a part number I can reference?

While I was inspecting the bearing and area, I noticed a nice little gouge in the area where the bearing popped off. Here's a photo of that:

Will I need to file this down or is it mostly irrelevant? I feel like whomever did the wheel bearings before must've used their teeth or something to tear it out while yelling yeehaw and taking deep breaths from a paper bag full of spraypaint. Finally, here's a photo of the bearing that literally just fell out when I took the axle out completely:

The bearing says "KML 6006RK". Looks to be the highest quality double-row agricultural machinery bearing straight outta the finest factories in midwestern China. A little bit of research indicates the bearings I'll need are SKF 6006-2RS or 2RS1 or maybe 2RSJ. While trying to source them today, I ran across these guys, Boca Bearings. They're literally a few minutes north of me, but holy crap $124 for two bearings seems pretty outrageous. I've read about a few guys getting SKF bearings from auto parts stores (NAPA, etc)...? Is this a thing or should I be sourcing them online? Online searches of all my local auto parts stores has yielded nothing.

Anyway, once I get my hands on some bearings and a fresh spacer that doesn't look like it's been used to chisel concrete I'll give installing them a shot.

2-idler pulley has 2 bearings easily replaceable and highly recommended. bearing part # is 6203. BUY QUALITY...not chinese garbage. they are a light press fit once the snap ring is removed. a very easy job to perform.

Will do. Can I source the bearings locally or are these particular bearings that I need to source from a Buell-specific vendor? I think Space Coast H-D can get Buell-specific parts.

3-lightly wire wheel the entire rear axle and then coat with light grease prior to install. i delete grease from the threaded portion and lightly coat that area with anti-seize.

Will do, thank you.

4-a stock clutch cable has a threaded barrel with jamb-nut and rubber gaitor covering same. anything other than that is a non-stock cable. clutch pack and cable adjustment done correctly yields smooth shifting and easily found neutral. when you get to that point post up and we'll be happy to walk you thru it though the manual covers it nicely. on the slotted clutch pack nut you turn it OUT/COUNTER-CLOCKWISE till slightly snug......then IN/CLOCKWISE approx. 1/2 turn. any other method mentioned is incorrect.

I'll need to take some photos to show you guys what my clutch cable looks like. It's *more or less* the same - it still has the locknut and the mechanism is similar but it has some cosmetic differences, doesn't have the little accordion-style sleeve on it, and the termination at the clutch lever seems different. Incidentally, the clutch lever pivot point is hogged out - makes a clicking when I actuate the lever, took it apart for inspection and the brass ring on the inside is half gone, the lever itself is hogged out (I believe the term some folks use in the midwest is 'cornholed'.) I'll replace the lever and the clutch cable to bring it to spec once I've settled this business of the wheel bearing and replaced the idle-pulley bearing.

As always, thank you LunaticFringe and everybody who is contributing to my ongoing saga. I'll update again soon!

 

[user_deleted]

jeff(umdterp13) mentioned not required to remove pulley and rotor prior to performing this work. that is true. i always do though and suggested it as it only takes a minute with air tool and torx bit and will prevent rotor and pulley from being marred while performing this job.
your answers as follows:
1-yes. any H-D dealer can order you a new inner spacer tube. have them look up 2003-2008 XB any model rear wheel. all the same...spacer tube all the same. its dimensions are: 202.8mm in length-tolerance allowance of .002 inches.
2-dealer can order you full bearing kit and it fits F&R wheels. quality buell OEM bearings. part # is 94197Y. i have this part # in stock if needed or they show NLA. ALL BALLS also excellent choice.
3-gave you all idler pulley info needed to do the job. see prior post and link for instructions and pics.
4-the outer edge of your rim not critical but the inner surface that engages the wheel bearing outer shell must be virtually flawless as well as the floor/bottom lip that the bearing seats against. sand and massage till you obtain it.
5-KML bearings are fine and sold by the millions. in your case it was the installation that was wrong...not the choice of bearing.
6-always install rotor side bearing first....then tube...then pulley side bearing. coat outer shell of bearing with light grease prior to install. makes job a hell of alot easier. you can also place bearings in freezer overnite then remove, heat hub, press and install.
7- your clutch lever and perch sound like junk. cable questionable. i would shop for new or good used.

 

[AZmidget91]

I use JSB to get my SKF bearing
https://www.jsbgreatbearings.com/60...9.html?zenid=8941dadd8f699d0a50d0dc27e45f097e

Or support a member who has been helping you and get them from lunaticfringe

 

[vicenzajay]

Yes - second the suggestion to just order from John (lunaticfringe). What an awesome resource for us here, and a truly stand up guy. You'll also *know* that you are getting exactly what you need to do things right.

 

[user_deleted]

Yes - second the suggestion to just order from John (lunaticfringe). What an awesome resource for us here, and a truly stand up guy. You'll also *know* that you are getting exactly what you need to do things right.

i can't thank you enough for the very kind words and the time to post them up. much appreciated jay.