Got my Buelltooth for my '06 Uly. What changes do I need to make?

[motoguy]

Got my Buelltooth for my '06 Uly. Must-check parameters?

Title sums it up. My Buelltooth has arrived. I've downloaded ECMdroid on a spare android phone and ECMSpy and TunerPro RT for the laptop.

I went this route because both of my bikes have ECM's marked "race use only", and I'm afraid of the "tuning" that may have been done on them. I'm a fan of getting my "new to me" purchases to a reliable baseline before I start messing with them. I'll be starting with my '06 Uly. It's stock aside from a Drummer exhaust. I have requested the Drummer file from Rev-mo to get it back to an "in the ballpark" range.

The seller of my bike claimed the '06 had a "Screamin' Eagle" ECM on it. I have no idea about this, as I'm not familiar with Harley World. I do know my fuel economy of 37 mpg is lower than I expected. I also see that the AFV for the rear cylinder is 115, whereas the front cylinder is grayed out. I wonder if these could be signs of fatigued intake gaskets. It's my understanding the AFV is set by the ECM while in operation, and not a user setting.

My concerns are not performance mods but rather longevity mods. Getting the fuel economy in line. Getting the fan programmed to reduce heat related issues (I have no concerns about fan noise). I have no desire to tweak the ECM for max power. I'm looking to increase longevity. Any suggestions on changes that would be good to make?

 

[Barrett]

Access known real unfettered "race use only" maps. Access the map tables now installed on ECM you speak of and compare.
See link below for great "race use only" ECM info.
Yes---ECM contrives the AFV over the course of time and distance accrued. Can also be set and locked in place by user.
115 coincides with substantially increased injector pulse-width. A failing fuel pump can cause this.

https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?40778-Convert-Race-ECM-to-Stock

 

[Cooter]

Oh boy.... here we go again. Please, READ both the TunerPro basics and ECMSpy manual, to know what tuning even IS... THEN, see if it's something you want to disable the bike with, and sell it non-running in frustration 6 months from now:black_eyed:

115 AFV is telling you something may need attention. But for sure it is NOT that it needs a tune. You hamfisting changing the tune might even mask the issue you have and make it worse, because it it NOT the tune causing the issue, nor is it anything a tune can fix. It just doesn't work that way.

Using the Buelltooth and ECMDroid as a diagnostic tool is invaluable to see why the AFV is slightly high on yours without guesses. AFV is a universal map modifier, bad gas, elevation changes, even a rainy day, will make it change. It needs to! So don't 'lock it in place', thats why it's a fuel injection computer and not a carburetor. It takes some time to adjust. It's adjusting with that sledgehammer because thats the only tool it has. You want to find out why, like an old, lazy O2 sensor on a 17 year old motorcycle? EGO Corr is a more immediate sign of what the ECM trying compensate for. Whats "EGO Corr"? See the first paragraph ^^^^.

The "Race use only" brand or sticker means absolutely nothing. The ECM is identical in every way to a stock unit and theres no way to know what tune is in either of them. So... getting any tune from any source is the same exact crap shoot you have right now, unless you trust the source completely*.

You have AFV on the rear cylinder because you only have one AFV. The front is greyed out because you don't have a second O2 sensor in the front head pipe to run closed loop on each cylinder seperately. Closed Loop is where the ECM adjusts the tune, so you don't have too. Ever. Yes, you can change the existing ECM to run both if you add one.

37MPG is a little low, but of course you have a aftermarket muffler and (hopefully) matching tune for more power on it now so... ya I'd expect that. I get about that on the Ss, but I ride like a j3rk (Where IS A-a-ron?):angel:

Want better MPG? Throw some maintenance at it. It's not a sexy as tuning your own bike with the dynamometer you have in the garage and your years of tuning experience, but sonic clean the injectors (not parts store magic-in-a-bottle), new plugs, new air filter.... IMO you'd get farther throwing the $300 for a ECM you don't need at a fuel pump re-build (PM Barrett). Ya know... the basics!


TL;DR
If you just have to mess with it...:upset: I trust these guys:
* https://idspd.com/xcart/

 

[motoguy]

Thank you. I'm not looking to tweak anything to death. Really I'm just looking for reliability and longevity. I'm 47...I have neither the time nor inclination to tinker everything all to hell anymore. l I would like to establish a baseline "clean bill of health" so hopefully the bike will be with me for a long while. Sounds like a fuel pump swap, injector cleaning and O2 sensor replacement aren't bad places to start.

The only reason I'm interested in map changes is to make sure there's a reliable map on there that won't burn / blow something up. The previous owner didn't give off strong "care and maintenance" vibes, and was quick to talk about the aftermarket ECM work he had done. The bike is stock with a non-SS drummer exhaust...I just want something appropriate for that...and make sure the fan is keeping the rear head as cool as possible (fan noise be damned).

 

[Cooter]

Cool. With a proper running bike, unless the ECM was 'locked out' from adjusting itself by someone, it won't burn anything up... it will adjust itself to a decent running condition. Thats what ECM's do:up:

An easy way to check is under O2 settings the min and max AFV should be at least 15 points from 100 (85-115), stock is 50! (50 min 150 max) but they don't run for crap after 30 points or so. Also check for Closed Loop temp settings, sometimes they max that temp so it never gets into CL. Easiest way is to look for an additional Baro sensor added on to the 3 pin plug by the ECM. The ECM would need that to reference elevation if it was hobbled to Open Loop operation only.

If you still have doubts about the tune for some reason, the IDS ECM is a good plug-n-play option to calm your nerves:up: Think of it as $300 insurance

Maintenance is always a good option for longevity:eagerness: You can check sensor sweep and readings under "live data". There aren't really that many to check. You did flush the brake fluid, fork oil, and put in new wheel bearings right??:applause: How many miles? Steering head bearings (check the grounds there while it's apart), the belt doesn't have a replacement schedule but they seem to go 50K before trouble (YMMV if stored outside). Swingarm bushings, motor mounts... See?! Theres PLENTY of things to worry about besides the magic black box that holds the mysterious electrons

Running the fan constantly isn't a good idea IMO. Yes, they are loud and sound like the Dyson hand dryer in the bathroom is following you:down: but also:
1) The tiny fan has WAY less CFM than a RSS after 25mph anyway... so it's pretty pointless to run it under temp. It sure won't make the engine run even cooler, lol.
2) It will stress the charging system and battery
3) Running 90% more will shorten its life, uh. 90%, and they are hard to find.
4) It will draw more oil vapor from the engine or any weeping rocker box issue into the fan and kill it quicker.

Besides, XB's don't have any issues overheating and theres plenty of safeties left in the ECM, from RPM limits, to shutting off the cylinders, but most OE programs don't even bother to intervene until 285*! Try that with a Kia, lol. It is an air-cooled engine and designed to run well in a much broader temp range than your water cooled daily driver.

Run proper V-twin specific JASO rated oil. Dino or Synth won't matter, but V-twin additive package will have better shear strength for all that heavy swinging metal and MA rating is for a wet clutch if you decide to put 20w-50 in the primary too. I find 20W-50 to leave a sticky/grabby clutch, so I do use the Formula+ HD recommends for a OE clutch.

 

[motoguy]

I've decided I'm just going to turn everything to 11. It'll be a rocket ship.

 

[Cooter]

Now you're talkin'!

 

[Pushr0d]

Cooter, I don't know if the 'tune' for an '06 is different than for my '08, but my fan runs constantly when the bike is going over 15mph, or I sit for an extended period admiring the scenery at one of the many traffic lights.

And the fan is readily available on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009OBP182/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) - but installation isn't straightforward.

 

[Cooter]

Yep Pushr0d, the system is exactly the same for all DDFI-2 and DDFI-3 ECM's with the same options to choose from. You have "speed based fan control" activated on your ECM program, thats why your fan runs almost continuously.

But don't worry! The fan coming on while idling motionless is normal and does not relate to the bike overheating, or even anywhere near that temp.

and yes, the Spal fan conversion/ modification can be done. That conversion is so well known because new Buell fans for a simple replacement are so very hard to find:encouragement:

 

[TomParis44]

good information in this thread!