H_D rant who many u adjusted valves?

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RT Performance

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Ok i need 4 shims my intake valves are tight.
I call my local dealer and they have 0 on hand.
They check the locator no dealers have any?
I know some v-rod owners actully ride them do they not adjust the valves on them?
asked service but they only have the oil change tech in today. But the writer didn't think they have a shim kit.
Guess atleast there tight i may just sand them down.
 
Link

I'm not sure if those are what you are looking for. Description says its for the vrod/1125rr bikes.
 
I am going to try sanding mine with a honing stone I use for trans pumps
Thanks for the link that is a great deal
 
Those things are cute haha. I've adjusted the valves in my old gs500 and they were 29.5mm in diameter. I guess that's 30 year old technology for you.
 
Thanks for the link

All eight of mine will need adjusting on the next adjustment.
They are .001" loose (over the max.) right now..!

On the first adjustment...they were ALL way too tight. And I DIDN'T wait for the full miles...I took things apart at just over 4000 miles..!

I set them all to the loose side of max., thinking more of the seats moving (as most offshore designs do)rather than the parts wearing. Well, not so much. Looks like a very even wear took place. I elected to not replace all the shims for .001" this time around, but I know I have to next time.

$60 vs. less than $10...not bad.
NOW...the next question...quality......

Mike
 
Posted:  17 Mar 2011 05:04 [?]   

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If they were too tight and you put in thinner shims, and they're too loose now, can't you just put the old shims back in??

Yes you could
2 tips you need to check lash between the cap and the follower.
I first checked mind between the cam.
On recheck only the intakes where tight
The shims have dimples where they hit the top of the valve calipers won't measure them properly. Need to use a micrometer.
I used a knife hone to shave mine to Size took a little time but was free and I got them in the middle of the spec.
 
upthe -

If that question is for me....no...
Then the clearances will go back to "too" (as in well under the minimum) tight !

These, inlike most Japanese systems, the shim actually wears, along with the cam, and both ends of the rocker arm.
I see this system as a giant step backward in valve control.

Luckily, the cams have the slow..."return to seat" ramps, so the slight loosness shouldn't hurt the valve springs (because of spring bounce).

Mike
 
The shims have dimples where they hit the top of the valve calipers won't measure them properly. Need to use a micrometer.

Is the dimple easily visible? Are the stock ones dimpled or did the wear create the dimple?

When I took my heads apart I didn't look at the shims, just tossed them in the pile of parts.
 
the dimple is pretty noticable.
When you start to assmble you will likely have to set some in and try them.
it is from contac with the top of the valve stem.
it's not a huge diffrance but when you trying to caculate .002 smaller and the dimple is .oo1 it will mess u up.
If i was going to build a fress motor i would go toward the large end of the spec since the valves beat into the seat and get tighter.
 
Has anyone ordered the kit from the first link? Being I'm stationed in Germany that kit might be very useful for me as getting shims will be a bit of a pain (and I certainly DON'T want to buy them in Euros.)
 
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