How to: Front Fork maintenance 2009 Buell XB12Scg : With Pics!

[TPEHAK]

Today I'm going to show you how to perform 10000 miles maintenance on the front fork for 2009 Buell XB12Scg since I did not find a good thread with this information.

To maintain the fork I used:

- Fork compression tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GV6UIE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Oil level gauge (can be just syringe and a tube from hardware store) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00REQYRO8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Seal driver (for 2009 Buell XB12Scg it is 41mm seal driver, can be replaced by plastic pipe from Home Depot ) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SUVR7C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- 1 Liter front fork oil (I used viscosity W15 this time) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045LCE6S/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
- Tools to remove the fork from motorcycle and disassembling (wrenches, motorcycle stands, screwdrivers, e.t.c)


Here is parts list specifically for 2009 Buell XB12Scg you probably also will need to replace while front fork maintenance

- J8138.02A8 GENUINE BUELL FRONT FORK SLIDE BUSHING
https://www.sphdonline.com/products/j8138-02a8-genuine-buell-front-fork-dust-seal-b1p

- J8140.02A8 GENUINE BUELL FRONT FORK GUIDE BUSHING
https://www.sphdonline.com/products/copy-of-j8130-02a8-genuine-buell-front-fork-dust-seal-b1p

- 41-7180 ALL BALLS FORK SEAL KIT
https://www.sphdonline.com/products...al-kit-for-2008-2010-1125r-cr-2008-2010-xb12x



Put motorcycle on muffler jack

Unscrew and remove front wheel fender

Support the front wheel (I used car jack)

Unscrew two pinch bolts of the wheel axle

Unscrew wheel axle

Wrap the wheel spoke behind the brake caliper with towel

Unscrew the brake caliper

Hang up the front wheel on triple tree bracket

Remove front wheel support

Remove headlight assembly from front forks to be able to remove the forks

Unscrew the forks from triple tree clamps

Slide fork down from the top triple tree clamp, remove retaining ring on the top side of the fork, slide the fork completely down from the lowed triple tree clamp

 

[TPEHAK]

Secure firmly the fork external tube in vertical position. I used two pieces of wood, a piece of rubber as pad between pieces of wood and fork and a couple clamps to hold the external tube of the fork. The fork external tube must not to be able to rotate

Turn rebound adjuster (small silver cylinder in the middle on the top side of the fork with slot for flat screwdriver) clockwise until lightly bottom, count number of turns and remember this number. In my case it was 1.5 turns

Turn preload adjuster (red nut on top of the fork) counterclockwise until lightly bottom, count number of turns and remember this number. In my case it was 6 turns.

Unscrew the cap from the fork (big black hexagonal interface on top of the fork)

Put the fork in fork compression tool and compress the fork

Bend piece if rigid wire like it showed on the picture below

Pull the fork cap up (it will be hard to pull due to oil resistance) and slide the bended wire under the jamnut like it showed on the picture below to hold the cap

Loose jamnut and cup using two wrenches

Unscrew the cap manually

Remove the bended wire and let the damper tube go down

Remove the white plastic cap

 

[TPEHAK]

Release fork compression tool and remove the fork from the tool

Remove the spring tube from the fork

Put the fork up side down into the oil drain container to drain the oil and to shake out the spring. Pump the fork a few times to drain more oil out of it

Using small flat screwdriver pry and disconnect the dust seal

Using small flat screwdriver disconnect the retaining ring under the dust seal

Using slide hammer movings pull out the internal tube of the fork from the outer tube of the fork with all the seals on it

Put all you fork parts in the suitable container and thoroughly clean the parts. I used brake cleaner to clean the components, but you have to be careful with rubber o-rings. do not spray too much brake cleaner on them, swipe them from brake cleaner as soon as possible. Inspect the components, especially slider bushing and guiding bushing (two thin metal split tubes), if they have worn layer of plastic and worn layer of copper I would recommend you to replace them. It is also a good idea to replace oil seal and dust seal.

Measure the spring free length and make sure it is not shorter than minimal allowed length according service manual for your particular motorcycle. For 2009 Buell XB12Scg this length should not be less than 277.5mm. If it it shorter you must to replace the spring.

Now you can assemble everything back.


Secure the internal tube of the fork vertically

Slide dust seal on the internal tube of the fork. Be careful not to damage the seal lip while sliding over the sharp edges of the tube.

Slide retaining ring on the internal tube of the fork.

Lubricate the oil seal using fresh fork oil

Slide the oil seal on the internal tube of the fork. The oil seal internal face has sealing lips with teeth shape, sealing lips with teeth shape must be faced toward the oil (teeth sharp edge is faced up), you can imagine those teeth will scoop the oil from polished face of the internal tube and keep it inside the fork. Be careful not to damage the seal lip while sliding over the sharp edges of the tube.

 

[TPEHAK]

Slide the oil seal spacer on the internal tube of the fork.

Lubricate the guide bushing with fresh fork oil and slide it on the internal tube of the fork

Lubricate the slide bushing with fresh fork oil and slide it on the internal tube of the fork on the groove on the top of the tube

Slide the external tube of the fork over the internal tube of the fork

Remove fork from the holding fixture. Be careful to not extend the fork too far. Press the oil sear and all part above the oil seal in the external tube

Using seal driver tool and slide hammer move press the oil seal to the external tube of the fork

Make sure the oil seal sits all way down, then install retaining ring

Lubricate outside face of the dust seal and press it in the external tube manually

Secure the internal tube base vertically. The fork must be fully collapsed like on the picture below

Fill the fork with fresh fork oil up the the external tube threads

 

[TPEHAK]

Pump the external tube up and down 10 times. Do not move the tube higher than 6 inches

Wait a couple minutes until the oil will have stopped bubbling and then fish the damper tube inside the fork and pump it up and down full stroke about 10 times until you will feel consistant resistance.

Take oil level gauge and set necessary oil level depth according service manual for your motorcycle. For 2009 Buell XB12Scg the oil level id 109mm from the top face of the external tube of the fork.

Stick the gauge in the external tube and suck the oil excess

Put the spring inside the fork facing the tighter end of the spring down

Put the spring pushing tube in the fork. Do not forget to attach bottom plastic cap on the tube before it. The bottom plastic cap goes on the bottom of the tube with deformed bump to hold the cap while installation

Attach guiding ring on the tube

Put the fork in the fork compression tool and compress it. Do not over-compress the fork, compress it just enough to reach the damper tube jam nut

Install the damper rod and fork cap together. Screw the damper rod full way up into the cap until lightly tap

Then turn the rod 3 turns back

 

[TPEHAK]

Fish the damper tube from the fork and pull it up. I use small flat screwdriver to capture the pull the damper tube. Be careful and pull it slowly, it has significant oil flow resistance.

Put plastic cap in the spring pushing tube. Move the jam nut all way down the damper tube threated area

Slide bended wire under the nut to hold the tube it this position

Put the damper rod with fork cap into the damper tube and let it flow down

Twist the fork cap on the damper tube until it lightly bottom

Twist the jamnut to the cap and tighten it by fingers

Turn the damper adjuster 90 deg counterclockwise

Tighten the jamnut to the cap using two wrenches. Service manual says tighten it to 30-41 Nm, but for me it looks like to much torque for such small diameter thread on aluminum damper tube, and it looks like there is a mistake in the service manual because of next line in the manual is about tightening the fork cap to the same torque, but the fork cap has significantly bigger threated area diameter. So I just tightened it without torque wrench just for my feeling to not overtorque it.

Turn the damper adjuster clockwise until i lightly tap

Release the fork compression tool and remove the fork from the tool

Secure the external tube of the fork vertically

 

[TPEHAK]

Screw the fork cap on the fork and tighten it to 30-41 Nm

Turn preload adjuster (red nut) clockwise the same amount of turns you did it when you turned it counterclockwise before fork disassembling. In my case it is 6 turns.

Turn the damper adjuster counterclockwise the same amount of turns you did it when you turned it clockwise before fork disassembling. In my case it is 1.5 turns.

Maintain the second fork same way. make sure they have same adjustments for preaload adjuster and damper adjuster. Install forks on the motorcycle, attach front wheel and brake caliper, attach headlight back.

Done!

 

[Cooter]

Excellent!:applause: Very, very, well done TPHAK:up: A good sticky
I'd like to add some tricks to help out:

Once you loosen the upper triple and before you loosen the lower triple is a good time to break loose the upper cap of the fork without the need for clamping it in the wood/innertube thing you made. Your clamp is fine, but it's very easy for a novice to squish and ruin that tube.

Use a piece of saran wrap or plastic to cover the end of the fork tubes very sharp threads when installing new seals. It's not enough to just "be careful" no one wants to do the job a second time right away

The seal spring always faces the oil:up:

If you're buying tools, get the damper rod tool too. You can make one too, it makes life very easy when fishing for the rod and pumping it dry, or bleeding it.

If you aren't going to remove the damper from the fork tube. (The allen bolt and copper washer are straight up through the axle hole), I would hang it upside down over night or at least until it stops dripping, especially if you are changing the weight of the fork oil.

Once, again. Nice write up:eagerness:

 

[BuellyBagger]

Yep gotta hand it to ya on this one. A much needed how to and a nice write up.

 

[MakingPAIN]

:eagerness:thanks for the good info with lots of pictures :applause:

 

[ROOK]

nice writup, and good lookin bike.

 

[outthere]

And a bit of heat with a heat gun on the slider will help ease out/in those bushes.

 

[cvc]

this is in my near future thanks for the details !!!

 

[JeremyConnors]

So good, appreciate the deets on those measurements.

 

[GregoXB]

Teabag! lol

 

[outthere]

Did mine yesterday and effed it up. Need to redo the right side. Rebound adjusters are not the same. Yesterday was a bad day and I should have quit while I was ahead. In bed. Everything I touched I messed up.

 

[Cooter]

I've been having days like that...
Don't worry, the adjustment sequence is all in the top cap and where you lock it down with the lock nut. Even if they're back in the bike it should be easy enough to pop the cap back off both of them to re-set the adjusters to zero. Don't forget to loosen the upper triple!

I know you know what you're doing, but feel free to call/PM me if you need a little support:eagerness:

 

[outthere]

Thanks Cooter. Left side has more available turns than the right. I'll try and fix this with the fork attached to the bike.

The real kicker was that I didn't move my car to make some working room. The front stand was apparently not properly installed, the bike wasn't on the rear stand. The front stand collapsed, bike tipped over into the car. Big dent on the side of the car! Bike relatively unscathed thanks to the car. It's just a car, right.

And we won't talk about the turntable I effed up yesterday also.

 

[34nineteen]

When I did my first Buell fork rebuild I detached the top cap adjuster from the adjustment rod (whoops!). It wasnt too tricky to "re-sync" them. But you don't have to separate them in the first place.

Here's the procedure, but this is for the 2007-earlier forks. If you want the full read, it starts at 2-47 in the 2006 Lightning book I used.


1. See Figure 2-70. Fully thread the damper rod locknut
(10) on to damper rod (11) clockwise till it lightly bottoms.
NOTE
Set both forks to the exact same suspension settings.
2. Adjust rebound assembly for proper range of motion.
a. Lightly turn the rebound adjuster screw on top of the
rebound adjuster assembly (9) counter clockwise till
it stops.
b. Turn the rebound adjuster screw three full turns
clockwise.
3. Fully thread rebound adjuster assembly (9) onto the
damper rod assembly (11) until it lightly bottoms. Do not
tighten.
4. Thread the damper locknut (10) until bottoms lightly on
the rebound adjuster assembly. Do not tighten
5. Turning the rebound adjuster screw (9) counter clockwise
three full turns or until stops.
6. See Figure 2-72. Tighten the damper locknut (10) to 22-
30 ft-lbs (30-40 Nm).
7. Repeat for other fork assembly.

That sucks to hear about the car.

I used to have a Porsche Cayman, but it lived in the garage with the motorcycles and I was always worried about something falling and hitting it. So I sold the car! LOL!

 

[outthere]

It's done. Easy peasy thanks fellas.