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How to remove your xbr motor

Buellxb Forum

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squidbuellie

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2011
Messages
2,048
I have seen a lot of members asking how to remove their motors in the last few months.
So since I had some extra time I am going to do a dyi with pictures on how to remove your firebolt motor.
All in all it should only take you 1 to 1 1/2 hours from beginning to end.

Remove seat and battery
8854_20130311121833_L.jpg


Remove the airbox
8854_20130311121917_L.jpg


Remove the tank vent line
8854_20130311121956_L.jpg


Remove the airbox base plate
8854_20130311122055_L.jpg


Push the head breathers lines and velocity stack through the base plate then remove the air intake sensor
8854_20130311122146_L.jpg


Remove the coil wire
8854_20130311122625_L.jpg


Remove the O2 sensor
8854_20130311122230_L.jpg


Remove the head temp switch
8854_20130311123347_L.jpg


Take a screwdriver or needle nose pliers to remove the wire harness plug
8854_20130311123534_L.jpg


Take apart the throttle housing and disconnect the throttle cables from the throttle tube
8854_20130311123610_L.jpg


I just slide the throttle tube back on
8854_20130311125156_L.jpg


Remove the throttle cables off of the throttle body with bent nose pliers
8854_20130311125323_L.jpg


Remove the top motor mount
8854_20130311125546_L.jpg


Remove the clutch cable from the clutch pirch
8854_20130311125635_L.jpg
 
Remove the left side scoop
8854_20130311130025_L.jpg


Remove the torques that holds the clutch cable to the front motor mount
8854_20130311130111_L.jpg


Remove the bolts to the cross brace
8854_20130311130301_L.jpg

8854_20130311130346_L.jpg


Remove the bolts from the oil cooler
8854_20130311130432_L.jpg

8854_20130311130547_L.jpg


Remove the right side scoop
8854_20130311130649_L.jpg


Remove the bolt that holds the cross brace
8854_20130311130748_L.jpg


Remove the right side rider set
8854_20130311130857_L.jpg


Remove the belt cover
8854_20130311131001_L.jpg


Remove the bottom motor mount
8854_20130311131045_L.jpg


Cut the zip ties that hold the wire together
8854_20130311131147_L.jpg


Remove the oil sending light wire
8854_20130311131312_L.jpg
 
Spread the wires apart
8854_20130311131420_L.jpg


Then disconnect all the wires "except" this one
8854_20130311131530_L.jpg


Then use a 12mm wrench to remove the nut off the starter
8854_20130311131613_L.jpg


Then if you have big hands like me then reach under the right side and disconnect the tps sensor and the fuel injectors
8854_20130311131935_L.jpg


The bike that I'm using as a demo is a 2003 so it has the kickstand kill switch. So you have to cut a zip tie and feed the wire from the left side of the bike over to the right side
8854_20130311132147_L.jpg


Remove the rear brake line holder
8854_20130311132822_L.jpg


Remove the rear brake caliper
8854_20130311132913_L.jpg
 
Dude, YOU ARE THE MAN!!!!!!!

Not that i need to remove mine, but I know this will help tons of people, and I may require it one day!
 
I did my engine removal almost exactly like pictured, took an 1-1/2 to do jumping back and forth through the manual, also using pics that were posted when I had asked prior to doing it.

thanks a mil squid for that and others for your guidance

^+1[up]
 
Zip tie the caliper to the rear passenger pegs. I like to put the two bolts back into the caliper
8854_20130311133021_L.jpg

8854_20130311133120_L.jpg


Stick a jack under the muffler (stock) if you do not have a stock pipe you will have to remove your pipe and stick the jack under the motor. Raise the jack up just enough to support the motor
8854_20130311133254_L.jpg


Remove the nut from the bottom of the shock. Do Not Remove the bolt.
8854_20130311133354_L.jpg


Break loose the top shock bolt. Do No Remove
8854_20130311134334_L.jpg


Remove the bottom motor mount
8854_20130311133722_L.jpg


Now here is a little tricky part, you want to raise or lower your jack under to take the pressure off of the rear shock

Then you should be able to remove the top shock bolt with ease and with the top bolt out the shock should look like this
8854_20130311134704_L.jpg


Then slide the bottom bolt out of the shock
8854_20130311135323_L.jpg


Then remove the fan
8854_20130311135448_L.jpg


Remove the harness clip with a screwdriver or needle nose pliers
8854_20130311135624_L.jpg


Swing the tranny vent line out of the way
8854_20130311135716_L.jpg


Disconnect the fuel line and zip tie a bag on it
8854_20130311140043_L.jpg


Remove the front motor bolt
8854_20130311140255_L.jpg


Put the top bolt back into the shock to hold it in place
8854_20130311140528_L.jpg


I do this by myself, but it would be easier if you have help. Hold the bars strait with your left hand and with your right arm lift the tail up, to we're you can see the top of the head
8854_20130311140418_L.jpg


Then feed or make sure the tranny vent line is not hung up on anything
8854_20130311140940_L.jpg
 
Then make sure the clutch cable is clear
8854_20130311141113_L.jpg


Then wheel barrow the frame over the motor and you should have something like this
8854_20130311141332_L.jpg

8854_20130311141454_L.jpg



When all is said and done you should have one or two zip lock bags with some nuts and bolts, and some big take off parts
8854_20130311141833_L.jpg
8854_20130311141931_L.jpg


I also forgot to add the you want to zip tie the rider set to the right rear passenger rider set and if you have the stock muffler you want to remove the chin fairing.
8854_20130311141710_L.jpg


Hopefully this will help some of you guys out, and as i said before it should only take you about one to one and a half hours to do it. There is no real big differences between the xb9 and xb12 except the exhaust valve cable.

Later on this week ill try to do a quick write up, on how to put it all back together again.
 
Here are some side notes....
If you are just doing top end work, you can bye pass removing the oil cooler.
But if your going to do a lot of motor work it's much easier to break the oil cooler loose so your not fighting it while its rocking back and forth.

Also drain the oil first if your going to crack the cases. You will also want to break loose the axle bolt for the rear rim.
With the motor out you can lower the jack down a bit and pull the rear axle and the belt will be real loose.
I like to leave the rear swing arm on to help balance the motor.

And if you don't have a motorcycle rear stand. You can do it on the kickstand, but you will need help to wheel barrow the motor because you are not lifting the frame strait up and down.

Good luck....

: I forgot to add if you still have the charcoal canister you will have a vacuum line on the right side of the thottle body that you will have to disconnect.

Also here is how the motor sits
8854_20130311142433_L.jpg
 
Nice tutorial! Thank You!
It seems to me I am going to do the same this winter.

('04 xb9sx with only 7k miles on odo, but it is eating oil almost more than gasoline)
 
Major major thanks for this write-up! It is thorough and easy to follow. Word to the wise if you're doing this by yourself; have your passenger footpegs on before you wheelbarrow the top off! Or put the passenger riderset back on after doing the rear motor mount. Setting the tail down on something without them is a hassle.
 
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