Idle trouble

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Beau

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Joined
Apr 3, 2013
Messages
107
So my 2009 CR is having trouble idling and somewhat frequently just quits. It seems to be more so when it's hot. I know there's no adjustment and it's controlled by the ecm. Based on what was going on and keeping an eye on the voltmeter page, I replaced the battery. The volts are now higher and stay higher than the old one, but the problem remains. I should point out that the stator was rewound by the PO and a new voltage regulator was installed also. It has a Keda pipe with an EBR ecm to match. I de-noided it when I took the intake all apart to make sure air wasn't sneaking in and leaning out the mixture.

So that's pretty much everything I think. Anyone have any ideas? It's really embarrassing having such a mean bike that can't friggin idle all the way through a light.
 
Add low power at low rpm. I killed it coming off a stop. That's a rarity. I've bogged it in the same scenario without it dying too. It just seems to sometimes have little power coming up from idle. So with reading I've almost decided to replace the crank position sensor. Anyone care to chime in before I spend 100 bucks?
 
Clean the idle air control circuit first. The little tube that sticks up on the inside of the airbox leads to it.

13+-+1
 
Thanks! I hate that tube. I didn't know what it was til now. It rubs that bar connecting the two throttle plates, makes my twist grip a lot heavier than I think it should be, relative to friends bikes of various makes.
 
I pulled everything apart and there seems to be no obstruction in the tube or as far as I can get into the nipple, which isn't very far. I can't ride it tonight but might tomorrow. The tube doesn't stick up as far as you said. It's too tight a fit in the intake plate and I can't reach it from underneath to persuade it up. It basically just sits flush with the hole, maybe a little higher. I remember it always looking like that, even the first time I took it apart and this problem has started more recently. The other tube that goes to plate, the one on the back left corner with the filter on it, reeks of gas and is fairly moist. I don't know what that one is for either.

If you don't think the idle air control circuit tube causes my heavy throttle, do you have any other ideas? I haven't ridden it in any rain to speak of. Is lubing cables an easy thing?
 
I haven't tried this myself, but I've heard other guys have cleaned it by spraying some carb cleaner into the IAC and letting it dry out, as well as a little squirt into it while it's running.

To get the tube pulled up into the base plate properly requires needle nose pliers and a squirt of wd-40 won't hurt on the outside of the tube.

The one at the rear should have a bit of what looks like scotch-brite stuck in there, that's the crankcase breather tube.

One main cause of a heavier throttle is the active air intake solenoid or "noid" as most refer to it. Personally, I don't see it as a drag on the throttle, but it IS a safety concern if it's still on the bike. It's an EPA "fix" for noise and it partially closes the throttle plates at a specific rpm. I'd like to meet the EPA ****** that mandated that **** so I could let him/her know exactly what I think of that idea.

Lubing the cables is pretty easy with a cable luber, most bike shops carry them, or at least used to back when I wrenched on bikes for a living.
 
Thanks for all that info. I'll pick up some carb cleaner and try that out. Do people re-route the crankcase breather on these like they do with the XB's? Or is it not as bad because of the little filter? The previous owner put on an EBR ecm that disabled the solenoid. He disconnected the plug but left everything else the way it was. I removed the "noid" and I feel like that helped throttle response, but it still feels like it doesn't rotate as easily as others.

I can see how you'd be upset with someone mandating the application of a device that closes a motorcycles throttle. That could be a very bad situation in an aggressive turn at a high lean angle.
 
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