ignition coil secondary winding out of spec?

[munkiep]

testing resistance on primary windings shows .5-.6 , even after i warmed it up. however secondary windings (end to end of coil, not pins) shows 13.5k, manual says 5500 to 7500. someone posted a video on youtube showing testing primary windings, but didnt show anything about secondary windings

 

[munkiep]

i should add that i started having problems when the bike would warm up at cruising, WOT, and idle. upon changing out intake seals, i found the front plug wire had rubbed against something almost to the core and the boots were terribly cracked. I replaced the wires after finishing seals, and still have a problem. AFV is 113+ and the bike wont start or run if i change it to zero

 

[Cooter]

That's ok. You are 'mostly' looking for continuity (which you have). Since it's very close and not super high resistance, I'd run it.

What problems are you having?

edit: Ok saw your next post. First, quit messing with the AFV. The 113+ isn't really high but is a clue that its getting too much air or not enough fuel.

Recheck intake seals very, very well. Double check the lip seal under the throttle body to base plate of the airbox. check fuel pressure and flow. You could even remove the fuel pump and check the rubber, wires, and sock.

 

[munkiep]

thanks for the reply Cooter, i had the injectors cleaned while everything was apart, the guy that did it said at 49 psi they flowed extremely well and even. ive made sure that the intake box seal is correct every time ive had it apart. i'll recheck the intake seals when i reassemble, i did the brake parts cleaner spray test before i took it apart this last time and couldn't get it to act up while spraying around. I dont have a fuel pressure tester, but i did turn the ignition on while the fuel line was disconnected and fuel came gushing out in the split second i let it run. and id say its a problem with front cylinder because, well, pictures... this is after less than 500 miles of riding:
front cylinder:
rear cylinder:

 

[Cooter]

What "problems" are you having?

??

 

[munkiep]

starts up, but low idle, tps set to 5.8 degrees, then it will surge up to 1150-1200 rpm, then back down (and sounds like it idling on one cylinder when it drops back down), once its reaches operating temp, partial throttle (cruising) it bucks like its missing, exhaust popping alot when i let off the throttle while in gear, come to a stop light and it will die unless i give it throttle, then it starts missing pretty bad unless im at more than half throttle. i tried running a data log on it today on ECMdroid, but the msl file it created wont open in megalog viewer

 

[munkiep]

oh, and i got the codes that were stored when all of this started, code 23, 15 and 32, all of them say "short to ground"

 

[munkiep]

I remembered I would have a slow starting condition if i didnt keep the bike on a trickle charge, so i tested voltage drop at startup the other day, it dropped from 12.8 to 10.5 volts, but still started (this was right after being on a float charger for several days). ive also left it off the charge for a couple of days now, tested the battery voltage after sitting for a few days, no key or anything on and it reads 12.85. the cranking voltage has me a little concerned, i didnt think it was supposed to drop below 11.5, and i remember reading somewhere how picky these bikes are about the electrical system

 

[Cooter]

The cranking voltage should be over 9.6V so you're good and resting voltage at 12.85 is ok too.

You're right, it does sound like a misfire for some reason. The coil will work or not, but won't cause an issue with just one plug. You mentioned new wires? Try putting the old ones back on. When it's acting up you can use a regular test light at the plug end to see if you have spark. Do NOT pierce the wire, there is enough high voltage that the test light will pick up the signal by induction. Just having the clip grounded and the tip on the wire should be enough to see the little light flicker with each spark plug signal.

 

[munkiep]

i would have tried that with the old wires, but i threw them away long ago. At this point im leaning toward the CPS or ECM, as the problem only surfaces after the bike warms up (goes into closed loop?). Its frustrating since its not throwing any codes at all now. Think i may take the ecm out this weekend, cut it open to see if it has bad solder joints. i checked the wire for the cps but there is no breakage or chafing

 

[munkiep]

i THINK i may have at one point flashed a bad map (or wrong one altogether). i had 5 different xpr files on my phone, some were for editing, others for flashing. of course the temperature has been much lower than what it was when it would act up, but i recently hooked up my laptop with a cable instead of using the bluetooth adapter thru my phone, and flashed the STOCK maps and eeprom. ive been out riding a couple of times with no issues yet, but as i said, the temperature here has been rather low (for florida). Still would like to know what triggered the initial fault codes (code 23, 15 and 32).... guess ill never know