My Buell xb9sx 2009 ISSUES Full Story

[samuelseggs]

Hello, I'm sorry to bother everyone again with my issues, I have not been totally transparent about my bike issues, so i was unable to get full support,

On my previous threads i was complaining about the issues with my bike without giving a full detail about the current state of the bike, I appreciate all those who took their time to help me with my previous issue, they were of great help, Thank you very much.

I got this bike from a dealer shop although it was not new. it had about 15k miles on it

1. I had issues with the stock exhaust, couldn't really remember what went wrong but i was still very happy about the bike so i jumped on ebay and spent almost 1000USD on getting a termignoni exhaust.

2. Few months later, i started having issues with bike performance i took it to my mechanic who happens to help with my previous bikes (Hornet and Xj6) That happened to be my greatest regret. He told me the fuel pump was bad that i would have to get a replacement. so i paid to get another pump, Well he went ahead and fixed another pump but the issue got worse. I'm always away cos of work. SO i did could not monitor what he was doing... Then he called me that the fuel pump was totally condemned that i need to buy a complete pump. I got angry and left the bike there with him.. During this period i was out of the country for training and could not have the bike towed home. I told my friend to help me get a complete pump. So we got one off ebay fairly used. After removing my old pump we noticed my mechanic had already removed the regulator it was a pretty mess. We got An 04 pump instead of an 09 then thanks to lunaticfringe and other members i was able to fix the pump and then i started noticing some newer problems with the bike, The Check Engine Light was always On


When i went to pick up the bike, It was parked is a very WET Environment and was not covered, The side stand sensor had stopped working i guess due to where it was parked. So i rode home, the bike was performing even worse, it would not rev it kept backfiring, so i bought injector cleaner and filled up my tank, then poured half of the cleaner into the bike, few rides later the bike cleared out a bit.

Although i wasn't getting good rev without the bike backfiring and having funny sounds coming out of the airbox. I jumped on this platform and i was told to do a TPS reset. I did the reset but still couldn't get a good turnout. So i saw a post on how to do a self diagnostics. I got my first error, LunaticFringe gave me a solution that it was stuck self plug cleaning. I followed his instruction but still the CEL was still on. Few days later, i tried to check the error codes, I found out that the code has changed i was having new series of code


11 tps
13 oxygen
15 intake air tempera
33 fuel pump
44 Bank angle sensor
45 side stand sensor
34 iac
37 speed sensor

Current State of the bike:::
1. It would start but does not idle. So i have to apply bit of throttle, When the Bike is hot the idle becomes stable at least it would not go off
2. The bike does not have a quick response until i shift to next gear
3. Another thing when i stop at a red light on turning green the bike has this backfire sound from the airbox, i have to throttle hard to get a response

Error 37 says i have a bad speed sensor, but my odometer reads accurately (i guess)
Error 33 says i have a bad fuel pump, but the bike starts although when the bike goes off due to bad idling i get loader noise from the pump

So guys i need all the help i can get i have missed riding this bike and i'm not ready to get rid of the bike

Oh I forgot to add my termignoni exhaust has been damaged because water had accumulated inside the exhaust, after lots if reving the exhaust tore out... I could not fix the exhaust now I have my old yoshimura exhaust on it

I appreciate all your input

NB:: Sorry i may find it difficult to express myself in writing ( Bad English) or inadequate words to use

I wish i found this forum earlier

 

[ocgreenmachine]

There are a lot of things here...

1.) I wasn't aware Termignoni made an exhaust for the XB. Did you get a corresponding map for the exhaust or did you just run as is?

2.) When you got the pump (I assume full assembly?) did you check the plastic hose that connects the pump to the regulator for any leaks? Over time the plastic gets brittle and if there is a small leak there, your pump will be constantly working hard to maintain pressure in the line.

3.) TPS could be the sensor on its way out. I had something similar with my bike (09' xb12s) when I purchased it used (would not hold idle, would start fluctuating and then cough out unless throttle was applied but ran better when warmed up. Turned out to be a bad TPS sensor) but as others here will chime in, there are a lot of things to check, so wait on throwing parts at it. File it away as a possible issue.

4.) Bank angle sensor... make sure everything is plugged in under the seat. It is possible your mechanic unplugged stuff while working on the bike and didn't put everything back together again.

5.) IAC... this can be cleaned relatively easily to check if it is dirty and gummed up (info can be found via google)

6.) Jacob Stark and various other people here on the forums and FB page are good resources to further diagnose the source of your problems, but there are a few of the items that pop up to the top of my head.

 

[samuelseggs]

There are a lot of things here...

1.) I wasn't aware Termignoni made an exhaust for the XB. Did you get a corresponding map for the exhaust or did you just run as is?

2.) When you got the pump (I assume full assembly?) did you check the plastic hose that connects the pump to the regulator for any leaks? Over time the plastic gets brittle and if there is a small leak there, your pump will be constantly working hard to maintain pressure in the line.

3.) TPS could be the sensor on its way out. I had something similar with my bike (09' xb12s) when I purchased it used (would not hold idle, would start fluctuating and then cough out unless throttle was applied but ran better when warmed up. Turned out to be a bad TPS sensor) but as others here will chime in, there are a lot of things to check, so wait on throwing parts at it. File it away as a possible issue.

4.) Bank angle sensor... make sure everything is plugged in under the seat. It is possible your mechanic unplugged stuff while working on the bike and didn't put everything back together again.

5.) IAC... this can be cleaned relatively easily to check if it is dirty and gummed up (info can be found via google)

6.) Jacob Stark and various other people here on the forums and FB page are good resources to further diagnose the source of your problems, but there are a few of the items that pop up to the top of my head.

Thank you very much for your swift response,

1. I did not get a map for the exhaust i just installed directly
2. Yes i did check the hose. it was clamped firmly
3. TPS issues :upset: Just like you describe the bike runs a bit better when warm. but sometimes it goes off when i ride, then i get the puff sound from the airbox or when i'm about to start off the puff sound from airbox
4. Yes the BAS is plugged but i'm hoping to do a cleanup of all connectors/socket with grounds, since the bike was not kept in a good environment
5. IAC is there a way to test if the sensor is still good?

 

[34nineteen]

but i'm hoping to do a cleanup of all connectors/socket with grounds, since the bike was not kept in a good environment

Do this before you go much further. A bad/weak ground connection can present itself in all kinds of ways, including poor running.

 

[samuelseggs]

Do this before you go much further. A bad/weak ground connection can present itself in all kinds of ways, including poor running.

Already on it but can i see all grounds in the manual so i don't keep removing random wires??

 

[34nineteen]

Already on it but can i see all grounds in the manual so i don't keep removing random wires??

The main culprits are usually under the seat or behind the headlight/near the steering head. Lunaticfringe in all of his wisdom and generosity has shared this info before on the board. A search should pull them up. Also, dont forget the heavy gauge cable under the air cleaner cover, and where the rear subframe attaches to the front/fuel tank.

Some people have had good luck running a separate ground wire from the neg batt terminal to the coil ground as well to help in running.

Also, dont forget to check the battery terminal connections and where the negative wire connects to the sub frame.

and for fun....

https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?41391-CHECK-THEM-GROUNDS

 

[user_deleted]

Lunaticfringe in all of his wisdom and generosity has shared this info before on the board. A search should pull them up.

thanks for the very kind words aaron. appreciate that!

i know what happened to your bike...i know what's wrong with it...i know the remedies. but suggest you follow the advice given above and contact either Jacob Stark or other assorted board members. they're very smart and know alot about these bikes. i'm pretty dumb and don't know much at all about motorcycles particularly buells.

 

[34nineteen]

Getting advice from John is a lot taking a shot of whiskey (or is it whisky?)

It’s a down home honest best attempt at advice. It’s not a Shirley Temple or some foo foo craft Root Beer (34:19 likes craft Root Beer), and it’s not for the meek or just anyone. It’s when you want an honest, unadulterated answer to your question with no pulled punches.

Sure, there’s more than one way to skin a cat, but if your looking for some solid guidance and instruction it’s hard to beat the 100 proof Pennsylvanian moonshine.

(That Cooter guy is a pretty smart cookie as well)

 

[samuelseggs]

The main culprits are usually under the seat or behind the headlight/near the steering head. Lunaticfringe in all of his wisdom and generosity has shared this info before on the board. A search should pull them up. Also, dont forget the heavy gauge cable under the air cleaner cover, and where the rear subframe attaches to the front/fuel tank.

Some people have had good luck running a separate ground wire from the neg batt terminal to the coil ground as well to help in running.

Also, dont forget to check the battery terminal connections and where the negative wire connects to the sub frame.

and for fun....

https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?41391-CHECK-THEM-GROUNDS

Thank you very much, this was helpful

 

[samuelseggs]

Lunaticfringe in all of his wisdom and generosity has shared this info before on the board. A search should pull them up.

thanks for the very kind words aaron. appreciate that!

i know what happened to your bike...i know what's wrong with it...i know the remedies. but suggest you follow the advice given above and contact either Jacob Stark or other assorted board members. they're very smart and know alot about these bikes. i'm pretty dumb and don't know much at all about motorcycles particularly buells.

Thank you for your response, I'd greatly appreciate your input, you've been a great help previously. Please i'll also need your help with this also. Please!!!

 

[Cooter]

Wow. Theres a LOT going on here:upset:
A bike with lots of issues, trying to be repaired by not a mechanic, and the language barrier. This will be fun?

SE: If you want to fix this yourself, you can! Quit starting new threads, you'll need all the info you can and this isn't Facebook. You will have to be patient. Are you patient? I will help you with diagnosis, but I won't go through the basics of how to use a screwdriver.

1) Forget everything you think is the problem. Remember, you don't know what the problem is... You're looking for it. Remember that. Any assumption will cost you time/ money/ frustration.
2) Get the manual download from Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com
3) Since this is a running problem with your bike, a good diagnostic tool is the program ECMDroid (Free on Googleplay). Get it and get familiar with the program. Read read read. RESIST the urge to assume it's a programming fault in the Buell ECM and go down that deep wormhole.
4) ECMDroid communicates with the bike via Bluetooth. You'll need a Bluetooth Dongle. I like the one I got from Buelltooth.com
5) While you are waiting for your Buelltooth to arrive, check all the basics. Disconnect the battery and clean the terminals with a wire brush, reconnect tightly. Do the same to all the ground wires (the manual, google, and this forum, have the locations).
6) Do a LAF. Add a specific ground wire from the battery to the coil mount (Lunatics. Awesome. Fix.).
7) Use a voltmeter at the battery to make sure you have 12.3-12.8VDC at rest, >9.6VDC while cranking, 13.5-14.7VDC at 2500RPM.
8) Do NOT keep riding it, do NOT start it unless its for diagnosis and will be warmed up completely.
9) Keep your eyes open. Are the electrics corroded? is something disconnected? Post a picture if you are unsure.
10) Is the air filter clean? Did you fix the intake boot? Is there good gas in it? How do you know?

 

[34nineteen]

Wow. Theres a LOT going on here:upset:
A bike with lots of issues, trying to be repaired by not a mechanic, and the language barrier. This will be fun?

SE: If you want to fix this yourself, you can! Quit starting new threads, you'll need all the info you can and this isn't Facebook. You will have to be patient. Are you patient? I will help you with diagnosis, but I won't go through the basics of how to use a screwdriver.

1) Forget everything you think is the problem. Remember, you don't know what the problem is... You're looking for it. Remember that. Any assumption will cost you time/ money/ frustration.
2) Get the manual download from Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com
3) Since this is a running problem with your bike, a good diagnostic tool is the program ECMDroid (Free on Googleplay). Get it and get familiar with the program. Read read read. RESIST the urge to assume it's a programming fault in the Buell ECM and go down that deep wormhole.
4) ECMDroid communicates with the bike via Bluetooth. You'll need a Bluetooth Dongle. I like the one I got from Buelltooth.com
5) While you are waiting for your Buelltooth to arrive, check all the basics. Disconnect the battery and clean the terminals with a wire brush, reconnect tightly. Do the same to all the ground wires (the manual, google, and this forum, have the locations).
6) Do a LAF. Add a specific ground wire from the battery to the coil mount (Lunatics. Awesome. Fix.).
7) Use a voltmeter at the battery to make sure you have 12.3-12.8VDC at rest, >9.6VDC while cranking, 13.5-14.7VDC at 2500RPM.
8) Do NOT keep riding it, do NOT start it unless its for diagnosis and will be warmed up completely.
9) Keep your eyes open. Are the electrics corroded? is something disconnected? Post a picture if you are unsure.
10) Is the air filter clean? Did you fix the intake boot? Is there good gas in it? How do you know?

This ^^^^^^^^^^ :up::up::up::up::up:

 

[samuelseggs]

Wow. Theres a LOT going on here:upset:
A bike with lots of issues, trying to be repaired by not a mechanic, and the language barrier. This will be fun?

SE: If you want to fix this yourself, you can! Quit starting new threads, you'll need all the info you can and this isn't Facebook. You will have to be patient. Are you patient? I will help you with diagnosis, but I won't go through the basics of how to use a screwdriver.

1) Forget everything you think is the problem. Remember, you don't know what the problem is... You're looking for it. Remember that. Any assumption will cost you time/ money/ frustration.
2) Get the manual download from Buellmods.com or Buelltooth.com
3) Since this is a running problem with your bike, a good diagnostic tool is the program ECMDroid (Free on Googleplay). Get it and get familiar with the program. Read read read. RESIST the urge to assume it's a programming fault in the Buell ECM and go down that deep wormhole.
4) ECMDroid communicates with the bike via Bluetooth. You'll need a Bluetooth Dongle. I like the one I got from Buelltooth.com
5) While you are waiting for your Buelltooth to arrive, check all the basics. Disconnect the battery and clean the terminals with a wire brush, reconnect tightly. Do the same to all the ground wires (the manual, google, and this forum, have the locations).
6) Do a LAF. Add a specific ground wire from the battery to the coil mount (Lunatics. Awesome. Fix.).
7) Use a voltmeter at the battery to make sure you have 12.3-12.8VDC at rest, >9.6VDC while cranking, 13.5-14.7VDC at 2500RPM.
8) Do NOT keep riding it, do NOT start it unless its for diagnosis and will be warmed up completely.
9) Keep your eyes open. Are the electrics corroded? is something disconnected? Post a picture if you are unsure.
10) Is the air filter clean? Did you fix the intake boot? Is there good gas in it? How do you know?

:angel: thank you very much, just purchase the Dongle, it'll take 14 business day to get here... meanwhile i have started cleaning out grounds and checking out for loose wires

 

[34nineteen]

:angel: thank you very much, just purchase the Dongle, it'll take 14 business day to get here... meanwhile i have started cleaning out grounds and checking out for loose wires

Good move on purchasing the Buelltooth dongle. It will help with troubleshooting and fault finding. You'll still need the ole noggin, but its a great tool to have.

 

[ocgreenmachine]

Thank you very much for your swift response,

1. I did not get a map for the exhaust i just installed directly
2. Yes i did check the hose. it was clamped firmly
3. TPS issues :upset: Just like you describe the bike runs a bit better when warm. but sometimes it goes off when i ride, then i get the puff sound from the airbox or when i'm about to start off the puff sound from airbox
4. Yes the BAS is plugged but i'm hoping to do a cleanup of all connectors/socket with grounds, since the bike was not kept in a good environment
5. IAC is there a way to test if the sensor is still good?

The leaks I was talking about with the hose would not be due to a loose clamp... it would be due to the plastic hose degrading over time and cracking, leading to small pinholes that leak gas back into the tank and not allowing your lines to pressurize properly. The way to test it is to take the pump assembly, dip it into a bucket of gas, and lift it out. If there is a leak in that house, it will squirt out in a stream. I had two pinhole leaks in that hose when I had originally thought it was a pump issue. After replacing the hose, pump went back to normal operation.

 

[34nineteen]

Something low cost (but labor intensive) to look into is leaking intake manifold seals. If you are going to be spinning the wrenches yourself, it should be a low cost gamble (and may need done anyhow if the factory ones are still in place). If you are paying a mechanic, it could get pretty expensive.

You can also do a check to see if the seals are leaking without tearing too far into it. There should be a bunch of videos and instructions on there as a Sportster is basically the same thing (but much easier to do, due to access).

 

[samuelseggs]

Something low cost (but labor intensive) to look into is leaking intake manifold seals. If you are going to be spinning the wrenches yourself, it should be a low cost gamble (and may need done anyhow if the factory ones are still in place). If you are paying a mechanic, it could get pretty expensive.

You can also do a check to see if the seals are leaking without tearing too far into it. There should be a bunch of videos and instructions on there as a Sportster is basically the same thing (but much easier to do, due to access).

Thank You very Much, i'll surely look into this also

 

[samuelseggs]

I appreciate everyone who took their time to responds to my issues.. I wish i found this thread earlier.. @cooter @lunaticfringe thank you all.

Sorry i did not give feedback earlier. I was away on field work. IT Stuff..

I ordered for the buelltooth and package got missing, took a while to claim refund policy. but during the wait, i purchased few sensors, i was getting error
11 tps (Bought this)
13 oxygen (Bought this)
15 intake air temp (Bought this)
33 fuel pump
44 Bank angle sensor (Bought this)
45 side stand sensor
34 iac (Bought this)
37 speed sensor

But still got error. So i had to re-order for another dongle. Today i tried to read the error, and found that those errors were saved on the ecm. Now i have lots of sensors i don't need now

i ran a check and only side stand error is left, still bike don't sound very smooth with bad idle. I am going to try the re-breather mod and change spark plugs and yes i bought a new battery also.

I have also done TPS reset after fitting a new TPS.



Sorry for my bad English

 

[Cooter]

New spark plugs is a good idea for a guess.
Can you post a video of it idling cold and warm? Buells aren't known to be "smooth".

 

[samuelseggs]

New spark plugs is a good idea for a guess.
Can you post a video of it idling cold and warm? Buells aren't known to be "smooth".

Okay will do after spark plug change. thank you