need help with clutch cable

[Gloomshadow]

after I went down a few weeks ago, my clutch adjustment felt different. LIke the clutch was engaging late as I released the lever, just a bit. So, I moved that rubber boot on the cable and changed it a bit to get it to feel better but I really didnt know what I was doing. Now if feels like its engaging at the right time as I relase the clutch lever but I think its slips lightly as it engages.. not sure if its my imagination or not.
Can some one explain to me what each nut on the cable does and how it works? I know what the jam nut does but the other two I was never really sure.. I basically just held the top nut still and turned the bottom one to spread them out from each other a bit then tightend the jam nut dow on the bottom one to hold them in place..did I do it right?

 

[netty2424]

Dd you just make the adjustment on the cable or did you adjust the clutch screw as well?

 

[100thwindow]

The long one is the one that makes the adjustments. The other two small ones are just to hold it in place so it doesn't move. You can also try adjusting the clutch cable in your primary cover to see if that works any better.

 

[user_deleted]

gloom: saw your post-crash vid and hope you're healing well. i would take the few extra minutes and do all steps below. no sense messing with cable adjustment without adjusting clutch pack screw as netty mentioned as well. below are the steps for all XB's. on your cable there is a jam or locking nut and a barrel. turning barrel in adds cable slack, turning it out decreases cable slack. after barrel is correctly adjusted, tighten jam nut against the other nut which locks the adjustment.

loosen jam nut and turn barrel inward or clockwise till clutch lever is very sloppy
remove derby cover. it is held on with 3 torx screws
push lever cable back towards rear of bike. usually 1/4 inch or so does it
remove spring and locknut. they are 1 little assembly.
turn clutch pack slotted screw OUTWARD until it is snug and stops. then turn in approx. 1/4-1/2 turn
replace spring/locknut assembly. replace derby cover and screws
go to clutch cable adjuster and turn out barrel until you have apprxo. 1/8-1/4 inch gap where the lever end meets perch end. OR you can pull on cable where it feeds into clutch lever perch and if you see approx. same amount of freeplay distance between cable end and lever perch that is also acceptable.
lock jam nut against barrel nut on cable, push rubber gaitor back down over adjuster assembly and you're done

 

[Gloomshadow]

I adjusted only on the cable itself.. I went one direction and it got worse so I went the other direction and it got better. Was that all I had to do? How do I know the clutch is fully engaged and not slipping on the flywheel? Does it take care of that itself?

 

[Gloomshadow]

ok Lunitic.. I think I understand.. Ill have to get in there and see what it is youre talking about though.. Ill mabye get in there today or tomorrow.

 

[neilrl79]

Gloomshadow, John's instructions are very straight forward, no surprise to be had. Whole process can be done in 10mins.

 

[netty2424]

Here's a video on a buell with step by step instructions

 

[Gloomshadow]

ok piece of cake.. thats a great video thanks.. I saved it. Question: why does the bike have to be on a stand?

 

[Gloomshadow]

now at 3:19 when Im tightening the clutch cable,, how do I know when to stop tightening?When have I gone far enough?

 

[user_deleted]

gloom: these clutches are very robust. once adjusted properly and not abused they stay "in adjustment" for a very long time. at the 3:19 mark the vid is showing "taking slack out of cable at lever end" adjustment. again, what you are looking for here is proper familiar feel up at the clutch lever. look at the end of the lever where it butts up against the clutch perch. the perch is the component that is affixed to handlebar and holds the lever. you are looking for 1/8-1/4 inch gap between lever and perch called "cable slack" when you start to pull in the lever. you need this slack in the cable so that cable is not too tight. and in general gloom, both XB's and sportster clutches tend to "engage" towards the end of the lever throw. what i mean by this is that the clutch begins to come in towards the end of lever throw....when the lever is almost fully out. hope that helps.

 

[Gloomshadow]

yeah thanks.. I think I got it now.. Ill do it later today..Ill tell you how it goes once its done.

 

[Gloomshadow]

at 2:42 the screw didnt really "stop" when I backed it out.. it just got harder to turn.. is that the "stop point" or do I keep turning until I cant turn it anymore?

 

[Gloomshadow]

ok guys I got it.. the clutch lever feels real good now..fells like its engaging right on time in the lever throw and it feels real positive. I think I got it..

 

[neilrl79]

[up]

I Think I'll be adjusting mine today as well.

 

[Gloomshadow]

yeah mine was feeling kinda spongy and it didnt feel good... like the clutch was engaging too late as I released the lever and it it just didnt feel right.. feels real good now.. I trust it now. Its like its all happening "at the right time" now.

 

[netty2424]

[up] glad you got it figured out.

 

[Gloomshadow]

yeah thanks man, I was making out to be something alot harder than it was to do. Its real easy if you just go through the whole proceedure.

 

[netty2424]

Lunaticfringe, with your mechanical experience, maybe taking over the DIY videos would be beneficial! Dave used to make them, which are very helpful, and I believe had plans to do some more, but doesn't frequent the site as much. Outside of having the work done by a skilled mechanic, videos are second best!! [up]

Maybe someone with editing experience can chop it up and add graphics/instructions and whatnot.

 

[vtech007]

Very helpful - thank you for this post. I'm getting ready to install a new clutch cable, so this will prove helpful.