New XB12S owner. Whats this bike all about?

[ThaRickestRick]

Hey guys, just picked up an 06' XB12S with 25k miles (in pretty good shape all things considered). I've been going through it and replacing seals, changing fluids, ran some fuel cleaner through it etc. The bike has a leaking rear intake manifold seal that I'll change out this weekend and a few other things that need attention including a tune for the jardine exhaust and k&n filter I swapped. I'm not new to bikes or wrenching but this is the first bike I've owned that wasnt an inline 4 screamer. Most these things I've got sorted and I've got a manual on order that I'll look through but I had a couple questions that I was having trouble finding answers for...
1) what is the proper chain slack for the primary?
2) the bike is missing the chin fairing, I prefer the way it looks without it but does anyone notice a difference in cooling etc without it?
3) is there a difference in the key positions forward and back (aside from lock position etc). I know some bikes have different modes and with Erik Buell being as innovative as he was I thought there might be some use for that.

Other than that I'm just hoping to hear anything I should know about the bike including the best sources for parts etc. Thanks everyone. I've already found a bunch of useful information on this forum so I appreciate everyone's input.

 

[Cooter]

Welcome to the forum! Love that screen name BTW

Tune? Ugh. heres the source:https://www.rev-mo.com Please please please read everything on that site, the questions have been answered here 1000 times. and no, you don't 'need' one.

Heres your manual:
http://buellmods.com

1) 3/8". But I'm OG. I will loosen the chain 2 turns, idle the bike, tighten until quiet and loud again, then back off, back to quiet.
2) No. It's just a cover for the muffler. Your ECM won't even interfere until 285*-305* Air-cooled bikes are different and MUCH less sensitive to engine temp.
3) Typically, bikes with a "P" position will lock the steering but leave the taillight on for roadside notice. If you don't notice that, you'll just drain the battery. Buell are hard on batteries anyway so an cheap one will die a quick death. A good AGM with 220CCA minimum. Deka "big crank" has a good rep around here.

TB gaskets are easy, I prefer not to use any additional sealer. https://www.buellxb.com/forum/showthread.php?57534-XB-intake-seals-swapped-in-45-minutes

 

[ThaRickestRick]

Thanks gents, So I tore into it last night and rotated the motor to replace the TB seals and the rocker box gaskets as well as plugs and wires while its down. Was going to check valve clearances before putting it back together. Aside from general inspection, are there any other items the XB's wear out quickly that I should look for while I have it apart. The rotation wasn't that bad but with the bike having 25k on it (in fairly good shape for that matter) I'd like to make a clean pass through it before I really start stretching her legs so I can do so confidently without the looming thought of unseen issues. Lastly, I searched for info on Force Race exhaust (not worried about passing emissions) but was unable to find much on what the community thinks of it...the full system... happen to know what the word is on that? Not seeing a lot of options as far as full systems go and the Jardine that was on the bike is shot (rock or something cracked the lower part of the can) and the headers are in rough shape.

 

[34nineteen]

Thanks gents, So I tore into it last night and rotated the motor to replace the TB seals and the rocker box gaskets as well as plugs and wires while its down. Was going to check valve clearances before putting it back together. Aside from general inspection, are there any other items the XB's wear out quickly that I should look for while I have it apart. The rotation wasn't that bad but with the bike having 25k on it (in fairly good shape for that matter) I'd like to make a clean pass through it before I really start stretching her legs so I can do so confidently without the looming thought of unseen issues. Lastly, I searched for info on Force Race exhaust (not worried about passing emissions) but was unable to find much on what the community thinks of it...the full system... happen to know what the word is on that? Not seeing a lot of options as far as full systems go and the Jardine that was on the bike is shot (rock or something cracked the lower part of the can) and the headers are in rough shape.

Why not just take the extra 5 steps and pull the frame off the motor. You're 90% of the way there with a rotate.

I am selling a stainless Force exhaust and another stainless "race" (not the Buell race muffler) exhaust system for $500 shipped, each. The Force exhaust is loud. Probably the loudest pipe out there. But it does sounds amazingly good until your eardrums start bleeding. I'm sure the other exhaust sounds the same.

Also, let us know how that valve clearance check went. :black_eyed:

 

[ThaRickestRick]

Lol it went non existent. I'm already missing the DOHCs. Love the bike so far but it is PACKED IN THERE. I saw that there was a trick but even getting to that rear plug is ****e. First push rod bike I've owned and it didnt even dawn on me until I was about to pop the rocker covers. Honestly the rotate wasnt bad and it feels like I've got plenty of room. Have a project bike on the lift or it would've been even easier...starting to look like I have two project bikes now. I bought this thing because I've always been interested in them since they came out but never pulled the trigger. Got this one cheap since it had 25k on it but I'm actually impressed at the condition of the bike thus far. The guy I bought it off didnt have it long and its a good thing because from what I can tell the original owner took good care of it and this last dude didnt have it long enough to do much damage.

PS those hex bolts on the TB manifold are some knuckle bustin B#$%ards

 

[Cooter]

The link I gave you (post #2) details the fiddly bits for a TB gasket replacement without even a rotate. 1/2" universal socket (either 3/8" or 1/4" drive) is key for a fast non issue loosening, and proper tightening of those hex bolts. Too tight and they leak. too loose and they leak. Welcome to the party, Pal. :eagerness:

 

[ThaRickestRick]

The link I gave you (post #2) details the fiddly bits for a TB gasket replacement without even a rotate. 1/2" universal socket (either 3/8" or 1/4" drive) is key for a fast non issue loosening, and proper tightening of those hex bolts. Too tight and they leak. too loose and they leak. Welcome to the party, Pal. :eagerness:

Thanks...I was going to try that route but decided to just replace head gaskets as well as the rocker box gaskets and injectors etc. Gives me a chance to really learn the bike anyhow. I appreciate all the advice and links

 

[34nineteen]

Have a project bike on the lift or it would've been even easier...s

That the thing. You dont need a lift to pull the frame off of the motor. Once everything is undone, just lift by the tail (one hand) and stabilize/steer with your other hand. Lift the tail up in the air and roll the assembly around on the front wheel.

I remove the muffler and jack it up by the engine (I made a fixture out of wood to fit the contours of the motor). Then lower the jack with the engine attached and lift the frame/fork/front wheel assembly off.