Occasional blips and farts since installing NGK plugs

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BuellyBagger

BuellyBagger

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Never noticed so many small blips, cut outs, and farts under cold running before I installed nGK's. Was running Buell Pro Series plugs from 1000 miles until 11500 miles and had no issues of the sort, the only thing I changed on my bike since then other than the plugs were plug wires in the same time period. I might be a bit crazy but I wish I could go back to the pro series.
when I had my cyclone years ago it really seemed to make it easier on start up in the cold and warmed up faster with less issues wit the pro series plugs.
I keep thinking maybe I have another issue because I have not heard anyone else speak out against the common NGK plug usage.
Am I crazy or do not need to experiment with different spark plugs?
 
I don't think you're crazy. I mean, you own a Buell so you can't be totally sane but I wouldn't call you crazy.
You're probably just being hyper sensitive to the bike now that something isn't what you're used to. It's like the people that do an open airbox and breather reroute and swear they can feel a seat of pants difference in performance.
Thing to review:
Did you gap the plugs? From my understanding ONLY iridium plugs come pre gapped or at a factory gap setting that should not be altered.
Have you changed gas stations? What I mean is, is there a possibility you have some crap gas in the tank?
Are you 100% sure you did not foul the plugs by blipping the throttle a little too much on that cold engine?
Last but not least are you sure your plug wires are seated properly?

If all those things check out then I would chalk it up as just the way the bike runs... ....with those plugs.
If it really bothers you switch back and see it cures your running issues. After all plugs are fairly cheap and who doesn't like a little man time with the Buell.

Good luck
Keep us posted.
 
They are iridium, so no worries on gap. I should check out the wires again just for s's and g's. Same fuel station as always, although I did run one bottle of Amsoil octane boost through it, which it really didn't seem to improve performance, actually dropped mpgs. I don't think I fouled one since it runs as good as ever warm. I've been wanting to find time to pull one just to inspect.
Thnx chicken. I will post results of some kind whether it's just me shaking it out of my mind or if I can find an actual problem
 
Nothing yet, bikes parked for the winter, going to have a look under the hood as soon as I get done on my lightning. Thanks for the thread reminder though!
 
Well first ride of the year for the uly. Still got one or two little stutters when it was warming up going down the highway@ about 3k rpm. Just like a light little misfire. I checked over all the connectors and plug wires grounds etc. When I had the inner airbox off to re-re-route the breather. I did not pull the plugs, maybe should've? Runs great otherwise still. Worried it's a sign of something ready to fail. Going to go through and take a look at the fuse box, maybe swap out the relays and fuses for some new ones just incase?
 
Just a guess... Double check the part number to make sure the heat range is the same? I've had lots of different Buells and it's funny how they all run a little differently.

Lets call it "Buell Character":sorrow:
 
DCPR9EIX is what i used... that lightning i had for a bit had the 8's in it, ran great. I used to run "BUELL PRO SERIES" plugs, but can't find those any longer. I was considering seeing what harley had in a platinum or iridium for 1200's... or maybe just another set of these maybe one is just faulty and wants to foul, but hasnt quite yet??? hell i dunno. If you all had to guess whats the second best plugs option? or just try another set?
 
cody: i don't know the year of your ulysses but every 1203 model i've owned which including uly's is probably 12 or so by now...all bucked and banged when cold regardless of year...which seemed to coincide with when they were in "open-loop" warm-up mode. i resolved this on all the pre-2008 models with a generic "race map", a dedicated ground from the rear dog-bone braided wire to the negative batt cable ground source in conjunction with all you've already done. though it doesn't always activate the CEL and store a fault code.... an O2 sensor heading to death-row causes the "bucking bronco" effect after the bike has warmed up.
 
Suppose I could build myself a little ground strap like you mentioned John, couldn't hurt! The bike is a 2007 has 13500 miles on it now. After installing the ebr ecm years ago the bike did run much smoother while warming up than it had with stock fueling. The little sputter does seem to be within the time frame the bike goes from closed loop to open.
When I get a bit of time I think I'll just go ahead and do all the cheap and easy possible fixes and cross my fingers. If that doesn't work I'll just ride it until it finally tells me itself what's wrong lol!
 
BuellyBagger said:
Suppose I could build myself a little ground strap like you mentioned John, couldn't hurt! The bike is a 2007 has 13500 miles on it now. After installing the ebr ecm years ago the bike did run much smoother while warming up than it had with stock fueling. The little sputter does seem to be within the time frame the bike goes from closed loop to open.
When I get a bit of time I think I'll just go ahead and do all the cheap and easy possible fixes and cross my fingers. If that doesn't work I'll just ride it until it finally tells me itself what's wrong lol!
Click to expand...
cody: i looked at my prior post again and what i meant by that dedicated wire is from one of the COIL HOLD-DOWN BOLTS back to the ground on frame that the negative battery cable shares. you might also have a lazy O2 sensor as previously mentioned.
 
Try a different set of plugs. I had the head off my Celica while changing the timing chain so I put new plugs in it. When I fired it up, it was only running on three cylinders. A long story short: one plug's center electrode ceramic insulator was broken right out of the box. When you held it upside down to examine/gap it, all looked good but when installed that little &%$#@ slid down, obscuring the gap! Still have that plug! Not saying that's your problem but try another set...worst case-you'll have spares!
 
lunaticfringe said:
cody: i looked at my prior post again and what i meant by that dedicated wire is from one of the COIL HOLD-DOWN BOLTS back to the ground on frame that the negative battery cable shares. you might also have a lazy O2 sensor as previously mentioned.
Click to expand...

10-4 john :up:

Try a different set of plugs.worst case-you'll have spares!
Click to expand...
i think i will
 
O.k. this is more of a question than an answer and, I don't mean to high jack.
Years ago we would slowly pour some water into the throat of a carburator to help clean out the built up carbon, I know these engines do build up carbon and, I'm not saying this is the problem. We also used to spray carb cleaners into the throat and all the rubber hose connections, again I'm not saying this is the problem but since I'm not that familiar with the newer intake systems I'm just throwing it out there. I know, I know, just stand on the side and listen, old guy.
We have Seafoam now ?

P.S. there was a post about installing a separate ground strap from the battery to one of the bolts holding down the ECM. Some reported smoother running but it seemed to be more for cruising at 2-3000 rpm and above.
 
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Why go with aftermarket plugs when the Harley plugs sit perfectly deep and are gapped spot on right out of the box?

Also, let me add.... the boots have to be snugged on very tight till you can audibly hear the "click." If it doesn't click, it is not on....
 
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thought i'd post this link as I've been doing some spark plugs research: https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/tech-talk/spark-plug-basics might be helpful to others
I now see that the "8" ngk's are a higher heat range than the "9's" and did some reading of some old buellitan boards posts that allude to the original plugs recommended for my bike were that higher heat range and then the harley number changed/ superceded to the newer cooler range.
DCPR8EIX is equivalent to the older Buell 6R12, a hotter plug. DCPR9EIX is equal to the newer Buell 10R12, one stage cooler.
Click to expand...
Possibly to help with pinging?? anyways maybe just the cooler range takeing a bit longer to gain heat is the reason im noticing minor fits during warm up? have noted less pinging with these new plugs now that i think of it as well. ordering a new pair of 9's making sure there gapped right and going from there.....
 

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